simple Hi-Tek coating

[dikman]

Gremlin, it may even out, time-wise, if you take into account having to apply two coats, but having to pick them out individually with tweezers and carefully stand them up would drive me nuts!! That's using the tumble method, otherwise I'd be up for spraying equipment of some sort, with more messing around and cleaning up of equipment.

Nope, this way is far more practical, even for my relatively low usage.

[Avenger442]

Dikman
Off subject but...
I coat tall rifle bullets sometimes. How do you stand them on their end without tipping them over moving around when PCing? Do you still have to stand them on their end when you spray instead of tumble?

[dikman]

Sorry Avenger, slight misunderstanding as I don't actually do it, I was merely commenting on some of the difficulties these PC guys face. The problem you've raised is asked many times in the main part of the Coating forum. The most common solution seems to be standing them in nuts or washers .

I'm just glad that I don't have to worry about it (applying two coats is a small price to pay, imo).

[Shotgundrums]

Sorry Avenger, slight misunderstanding as I don't actually do it, I was merely commenting on some of the difficulties these PC guys face. The problem you've raised is asked many times in the main part of the Coating forum. The most common solution seems to be standing them in nuts or washers .

I'm just glad that I don't have to worry about it (applying two coats is a small price to pay, imo).

Not powder coat. But the red on the bottom is epoxy resin coated, shoved at 1200fps. The other is HT bronze 500 fired at same vel. I tend to use the epoxy methode in guns that have dimensional variables that cause no-matter-what leading. When streamlining coating of thousands of Bullets, it's a few hours longer total than HT, but far easier and shorter than PC, and no standing bullets on edge. That would drive me f*ing nuts.

[leadman]

The white smoke is probably the indicator you exceeded the strength of the alloy. I wrote about this many pages ago. I used Richard Lee's chart to give me an idea of what alloy I should use to get certain velocities. This is why I used heat treated linotype when I obtained 3,619 fps with a 22 cal. boolit in my Contender 223 Rem. This velocity was probably max as I was just starting to get some debris in the bore that would affect accuracy after 4 to 6 rounds.
I did use the Gold 1035 in my high velocity loads and also had to use copper gas checks. Aluminum gas checks would not take the same velocity and had to be installed before heat treating so the aluminum would not extrude up the sides of the boolits when sized.

[Avenger442]

I have had the white smoke also on 308 plain based bullets with one grain short of max loads of H4895 down to 3 or 4 grains short of max. I remembered the post about smoke and exceeding the pressure for the lead used. This was 16 BHN lead. Never went back to see if I could drop down to something around 6 to 10 grains short of max. No smoke with copper gas checks.

[Avenger442]

Popper
Correction to my previous post.

After reading your post went back and looked at the containers I took the bullets out of and reviewed my load log. The ones I shot without gas check were not 16 BHN they were 12 BHN. Sorry. The ones with gas checks were 16 BHN. Mind getting old.

At the time I was looking for a hunting load and was trying to get a soft bullet for the 308. I had cast some COWW with 2% tin coated thee times with no gas check. One of the guys posting was shooting a M-14 and was wondering if he could shoot the Hi-Tek without gas checks. I probably should have tested the 16 BHN without gas checks. I remember that I had minor leading with the 12 about the last inch of the barrel. Only time leading with Hi-Tek. I just used too soft an alloy for that pressure.

When you PC your bullets how do you hold the rifle bullets on their tail?

[Shotgundrums]

I made a lazy susan affair with golf tees,place base down and ESPC. Apply GC if used first. Works well but still time consuming.

Hey Popper,
it sounds as if you're after decent accuracy with rifles and cast bullets. While it's not a race horse production-wise, you could try pouring single-cavity bullets while monitoring heat margins... With this, you're able to achieve far better consistency casts with X alloy. Might be worth a try.

[convert69]

Can anyone point me in the right direction to find bullet molds without the lube grove looking 45, 40 and 9mm

[slide]

NOE molds made some a while back. Don't know what calibers or if he still has any in stock. He is a vendor on this site.

[Ausglock]

I run Accurate 35-168ZK and 45-230MK.
Bloody good bullets. all HITEK Coated.

[1845greyhounds]

Ausglock, what do you shoot the 35-168ZK out of? If it's a 9mm, will you share the load?

[Ausglock]

The 168 is for reloading 357Sig for IPSC Std Div Major power factor loads.

[Shotgundrums]

The 168 is for reloading 357Sig for IPSC Std Div Major power factor loads.

Man that's a long bullet. I have their 35-135Z for 9mm. COAL 1.10 3.5- 3.6gr 231 for subsonic/suppressor use.

[Ausglock]

You should see the 170RNBB we make for the 357Sig.

[leadman]

When I get time to cast again and load I want to do more testing. I am curious if using JB Bore Paste on the bore before firing will make any difference in accuracy. I have the 'new" Lee 22 cal mold but haven't even loaded any yet.
I want to find the Handloader magazine in my stash that the writer wrote up a bore treatment that helped reduce the copper fouling. Thought it might help with the high velocity loads.
Popper, Which A/C oil are you using? I have a couple different ones on hand.
Just had a thought flash into my mind. Wonder if filling the bore with Amsoil 2 cycle oil and letting it stand might allow the oil to penetrate the metal??

[Ausglock]

Haven't had time to play with the 30/30.

[Rich22]

So I started playing with 3 powders today, my first time using the powder instead of the liquid Black. I am using the Bronze 500, Black 1035, and Gunmetal. I coated each of them with 20g/125ml acetone, 1 ml/lb. Cooked at 400F for 12 minutes. All passed the smash test, the bronze and the gunmetal passed the wipe test but the Black 1035 failed wipe. The bronze looks good for a first coat, the Black is a bit blotchy but nothing a couple more coats cant cure but the gunmetal looks much darker than I expected for the first coat. I thought that all of the powders would probably cook the same as far as time and temp. I will try the Black at 14 min tomorrow and see how it goes. Anyone had any similar or different experiences when playing with different powder types?

Gunmetal on left ,Bronze in middle and Black 1035 on the right in the picture with all 3, other is gunmetal on left and Bronze on right. Excuse the horrible pictures

Thanks Guys

[dikman]

I've found it's extremely difficult to try and get a photo to represent the true colour (particularly the darker colours, in my case gunmetal). I had a lot of trouble initially with gunmetal, but once I finally sorted it out (thanks to Ausglock) I was a bit surprised at how dark it was - for some reason I was thinking of a Parkerized-type colour when I thought of gunmetal - but it works fine so being a bit darker doesn't bother me.

[Ausglock]

I'd check your Temp with a Digi thermometer. They look over baked to me.
As to failure of wipe. How bad did it fail?
Just a hint of colour or wiped right off?

for first bake, the coating looks extremely thin to me.
Why did you mix 20 gms to 125 mls??
I alway use 20gms to 100mls.

2 Kg is about 4 1/2 Lbs.
6mls of coating to 2Kg of alloy.
1ml to 1 lb is far too little. especially if mixed 20 gms to 125mls.

Use more.....