Rich22
I can't see where three coats wouldn't work. That's what I use in my .308, .223 and 44 magnum.
Rich22
I can't see where three coats wouldn't work. That's what I use in my .308, .223 and 44 magnum.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Rich, why do you feel that you need four coats (and sufficiently thick, at that)?
Many only use two coats, or three if they want a deeper colouring.
Commercial caster/ coaters here in OZ use a 5-1-5 mix for the liquid coating. 2 coats.
3 or 4 coats is not needed.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
I'll add nothing to the conversation other than say I'm impressed by the excellent dialog back and forth,it's a pleasure to read such an in depth thread conducted with civil manners. Pat
Three coats 1035 Gold liquid, the first color I coated with. Don't have a crono but might be able to give you an idea. Lee C309-160R bullet weighing in at a tad over 160 grains average, BHN around 17, 43 grains of H4895, out of a Remington 700 can't remember barrel length maybe 22 or 23 inch barrel. Based on loading tables that should be in the neighborhood of 2600 fps. 41 grains was actually a little more accurate. 1 1/2 inch 100 yards.
Also tried a Lee C309-113F weight about 117 grains same coating same BHN 46 grains H4895. About 3000 fps. That load was not accurate all the way down to 43 grains of powder. Best group was 3 inches at 100 yards. Never went back to it. I'm thinking the bullet is just too light for the Remington.
I did shoot the 160 grain in 12 BHN with no gas check three coats 1035 Gold same amount of powder and gun. Those were terrible for accuracy. And I had some leading last 1/2' of the barrel that cleaned right out. The other two above no leading what so ever.
I also use a Dremel tool to shine up my Lee dies.
Last edited by Avenger442; 03-08-2016 at 09:15 PM.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.
Popper
With the right alloy I believe you can duplicate your performance with the HT.
I cast about 20 lbs of beveled based bullets today. The first time I have used beveled based molds. I remember someone saying something about beveled based and the coating. Don't remember who or what was said. Is there anything I should know before I start coating these?
Also remembered why I don't like casting small bullets. One of these was a Lee 356-102 RN two cavity. It takes a long time to fill up one of my peanut jars with a 102 grain bullet. My wife has a new 38 special that I told her I would work up some light loads for her to use at the range.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
I was not clear, 3 coats works, it's getting 4 coats in a bullet that was sized after coat 2. I will try 4 coats in an unsized and see what happens
I believe it needed because I am having to coat so thin each time, on the order of 1/2 normal, in order to ensure a good drying bond before cooking that even with 3 coats the finish is not at all uniform. My guess it is a function of the liquid black, and the conditions with high humidity.
250 rounds of 16+month old coated projectiles... mirror clean barrel... this stuff seems to last well.
Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.
Going to order some powder soon to play with. Are any "tougher" than the others? I do not really want black or green. I like the gunmetal. This would primarily be for supersonic .224 and .308 rifle with maybe a little subsonic blackout. I do want to try powder mix of black and gold though. May look good on very large 30cals . Go with the whole Blackout theme
Rich22.
Go with the Bronze 500 or Gold 1035.
Black Gold is called Texas Tea. it is a mix of Black and Gold 1035.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Gentlemen, does anybody here has some pictures of the red copper colour? How does that one compare to bronze 500 in hardness?
Much the same. They are both based on the same base ingredients. Only the coloured component is different.
Both work great.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
I've just been looking through some of the PC posts, and the ongoing problems of standing up each boolit in the oven (!) - beats me why they persist with such a system (maybe they're all just masochists at heart ).
I have on occasion PC a few hundred rather than HT coat, basically only for the reason of the blue or irridecent green colour which Joe has yet to get to play nice for him.
It is slightly more time consuming, however as you only have to coat/bake once, overall the time difference is not as great as you would think. Let me qualify that... for small batches.
Nothing beats HT for coating 2~3 thousand casts time wise. Except maybe alox loobe
Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.
Grem,
You hit the nail square on the head.
Products were designed for commercial caster uses, where they coat many hundreds of thousands, if not millions.
As these commercial casters require consistency and reproducible results, with bulk manufacture, the products certainly supply required attributes, and is results are very economical with use.
The hobby side of end use for coating originated in the US, where many hobbyists cast a hell of a lot more than guys in Aus.
All the associated results, good and bad, and as blogged, was mainly due to uniqueness of the coatings, and people had to essentially learn finer points when making small batches.
I am glad that someone at Cast Boolits let us know about Hi Tek. It has been the go to product for me for a lube. It came along just as I was getting into casting my own bullets. I was looking for a lube. The greases, waxes, plating..... all didn't seem to be what I wanted. Had read some on PCing. And, even though it didn't really do what I wanted, was about to use a 50/50 mix alox and paste wax. Then I found this forum. This blog was only a little over 2000 post instead of 7000+ post it is now. I read every post. That was in early 2014.
Joe
I hope it has been as profitable an enterprise selling to the US shooter for J&M Products as it has been a good product for this customer. It has meant may trips to the range and woods with very little effort after I got home to clean my barrels. The liquid coating 1035 Gold has been outstanding when I applied it correctly. The powders are a little easier to mix and just as good as far as I have been able to tell. The mold release 500 Plus works. And I have found other uses for a wet applied dry lube. Looking forward to the next great product from the "mad scientist" at J&M.
Last edited by Avenger442; 03-13-2016 at 10:45 AM.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Does anybody have a picture of the red copper color?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |