simple Hi-Tek coating

[ioon44]

I finally got to try some of the powder when I got some of the new Bronze 500 from Donnie. I like it so much better than the liquid!

So I had been wanting to try HT on some rifle bullets so I figured it was as good a time as any.

The Bronze 500 coated well though I know I put it on a bit heavy. Tried out a new squirt bottle and it was letting me add too much mix to the coating bowl. I have to try something else next batch.

Neal in AZ

In the pic below L to R:

NOE .40 cal 200 gr. TC - loaded long in a .40 case for my STI's
Lee 500 gr. coated and gas checked - loaded in a .458 SOCOM round for subsonic shooting
NOE 186 Collar Button for 45-70 - same loaded in a 45-70 case
NOE 350 RD for 45-70 coated and gas checked - same loaded in 45-70

Great looking boolits.
What powders work with the .458 SOCOM for subsonic shooting using a 405gr boolit?

[ioon44]

I'd suggest you try the 3 thinner coats to check if they work.
If they do, Then try going back to 5mls per coat for the last 2 coats and see how it goes.
Everyone will get slightly different results due to oven variations, alloy variations, etc etc.

I finished the 3 coats on the 405gr boolits using the Bronze with 3 to 4lm per 2kg mixed 125/20 and they passed the smash test, but the texture is rough.

I guess I did not dump them on the tray soon enough, would the Bronze mixed 100/20 give a smoother finish?

[Intel6]

Great looking boolits.
What powders work with the .458 SOCOM for subsonic shooting using a 405gr boolit?

Not sure about the 405 gr. I am shooting the 500 gr, subsonic with Reloader 7.

[HI-TEK]

I finished the 3 coats on the 405gr boolits using the Bronze with 3 to 4lm per 2kg mixed 125/20 and they passed the smash test, but the texture is rough.

I guess I did not dump them on the tray soon enough, would the Bronze mixed 100/20 give a smoother finish?

If you have not baked it, and it looks a bit lumpy/rough, it is easy to fix.
Simply return them into your mix/tumbler container, add a few non coated ones, and a little Acetone.
Shake around, and the extra Acetone should re-mix coating, coat the newly added ones, dont shake too long, then dump and dry again.

All the coatings will produce a lumpy rough finish if shake mix coat for too long, or you had used a little too much coating, (or both).
It is easier, if you have a slightly more dilute mixture, as a small over dose, should not present problems, as you are adding more solvent than coating.
Diluting a little more, will not hurt the coating, as extra solvent will make coating thinner and go further with coating more.
Bronze 500 will also work this way.

[Ausglock]

For powder, I only ever use 20gms to 100mls MEK.

[ioon44]

With the ambient temp here getting to 30deg to 35deg C I will try some MEK, I understand it dries slower than Acetone.

[Avenger442]

I know it is not recommended by some here but I use a container with a lid on it to tumble the bullets in the coating. The lid keeps the acetone from flashing off before I get ready to dump on the screen to dry. Usually tumble the bullets for about 30 to 40 seconds.

[Ausglock]

I have 6 new powders here to test.
One is a very Nice Magenta. Super shiny..

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

You can also add up to 25% denatured alcohol to your Acetone/MEK (prior to adding to powder/liquid coatings) to slow the evaporation rate down even more.

[HI-TEK]

You can also add up to 25% denatured alcohol to your Acetone/MEK (prior to adding to powder/liquid coatings) to slow the evaporation rate down even more.

You are correct Swamprat.

Additions of small amounts of Denatured Alcohol, will certainly slow down drying rate.
It may be more applicable/suitable for hobbyist type applications, where only small amounts of alloy are being coated and especially in hot dry conditions.

What is needed to be kept in mind, is that the whole initial "design" of coatings, was for use by Commercial casters, who required fastest speed of production, fastest drying rates, etc, etc, hence use of fast drying Acetone, which was also ideal product for the polymeric system as a solvent as well..

MEK, (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), also dries slower than Acetone, but is less user friendly.

I have seen commercial casters, use warm air blowers to actually speed up drying rates, even with using Acetone as a dilution solvent on its own.

With commercial manufacture, (loading, coating and dumping), allows coating of about 1000, every 1-2 minute or so, with a cement mixer tumbling type of coating technique.
These guys don't want things progressing slower, but faster instead.

[andre3k]

You are correct Swamprat.

Additions of small amounts of Denatured Alcohol, will certainly slow down drying rate.
It may be more applicable/suitable for hobbyist type applications, where only small amounts of alloy are being coated and especially in hot dry conditions.

What is needed to be kept in mind, is that the whole initial "design" of coatings, was for use by Commercial casters, who required fastest speed of production, fastest drying rates, etc, etc, hence use of fast drying Acetone, which was also ideal product for the polymeric system as a solvent as well..

MEK, (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), also dries slower than Acetone, but is less user friendly.

I have seen commercial casters, use warm air blowers to actually speed up drying rates, even with using Acetone as a dilution solvent on its own.

With commercial manufacture, (loading, coating and dumping), allows coating of about 1000, every 1-2 minute or so, with a cement mixer tumbling type of coating technique.
These guys don't want things progressing slower, but faster instead.

Speaking of tumbling with cement mixers. Which would be a better option for commercial casters?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-4-q...xer-91907.html

OR

http://www.lowes.com/pd_241568-47120...ductId=3591096

[Ausglock]

I'd go the Lowes one.
Plastic drum would probably be better than a steel drum..

[HI-TEK]

Speaking of tumbling with cement mixers. Which would be a better option for commercial casters?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-4-q...xer-91907.html

OR

http://www.lowes.com/pd_241568-47120...ductId=3591096

Andre3k,
Thanks for questions.
They may both work, and will depend on quantity required to be coated each time.

What I did not advise, is that commercial casters I have seen here, place/jam a tapered plastic bin inside the mixer. (They do not like to use steel mixing ribs and steel barrel mixer as is)
The plastic bins we have here are ribbed and fit snugly into mixer.
This allows removal and replacement of plastic bin, when using different colours, and saves on any cleaning requirements of mixer between each colour.
When changing colour coating, operator simply removes inserted bin and replaces it with another bin. (No clean up required)
Many plastic bins also have a clip on lid which is also useful.
If you cannot get ribbed plastic bins, some have fitted fixed plastic or wooden flat pieces inside plastic bin to provide tumbling action.
Using plastic tumbler insert reduces possibility of damage to projectiles as plastic is softer than the Steel mixer and ribs.
The benefit of using a cement type mixer is that after coating, the load can be quickly dumped into a wire mesh tray, or onto a wire mesh conveyor and transported to drying areas.

[HI-TEK]

I'd go the Lowes one.
Plastic drum would probably be better than a steel drum..

I agree to a certain extent.
It is OK, if you only use one colour, but would be areal head ache, having to clean between each colour change, if using several coloured coatings.

[andre3k]

I guess i will have to find out which mixer can accomodate the 5 gallon buckets that are plentiful here. Looks like i have another project. I have several shooters at my club using my bullets. Demand is exceeding my tumbling and oven capability right now.

[HI-TEK]

I guess i will have to find out which mixer can accomodate the 5 gallon buckets that are plentiful here. Looks like i have another project.

Well, it will certainly give you something to do in your spare time...

[benellinut]

Speaking of tumbling with cement mixers. Which would be a better option for commercial casters?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-4-q...xer-91907.html

OR

http://www.lowes.com/pd_241568-47120...ductId=3591096

If you decide to go with the HF, here's a 20% off coupon

[HI-TEK]

I guess i will have to find out which mixer can accomodate the 5 gallon buckets that are plentiful here. Looks like i have another project. I have several shooters at my club using my bullets. Demand is exceeding my tumbling and oven capability right now.

I hear you.
Unfortunately or fortunately, this is what seems to happen, when you start coating, and people see and try your products.
I have had many over the years, start off with a hobbyist set up, then in a short time, are making commercial quantities, and becoming a slave to casting and coating.

If you are happy, and get results you need, it is all worth it.
Keep up the good work, and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

[Ausglock]

New colours.
Wild Orchid.


Russian Cherry.


Summer Green.


All are non metallic and coat easy and very shiny.

[dsa]

Andre3k,
Thanks for questions.
They may both work, and will depend on quantity required to be coated each time.

What I did not advise, is that commercial casters I have seen here, place/jam a tapered plastic bin inside the mixer. (They do not like to use steel mixing ribs and steel barrel mixer as is)
The plastic bins we have here are ribbed and fit snugly into mixer.
This allows removal and replacement of plastic bin, when using different colours, and saves on any cleaning requirements of mixer between each colour.
When changing colour coating, operator simply removes inserted bin and replaces it with another bin. (No clean up required)
Many plastic bins also have a clip on lid which is also useful.
If you cannot get ribbed plastic bins, some have fitted fixed plastic or wooden flat pieces inside plastic bin to provide tumbling action.
Using plastic tumbler insert reduces possibility of damage to projectiles as plastic is softer than the Steel mixer and ribs.
The benefit of using a cement type mixer is that after coating, the load can be quickly dumped into a wire mesh tray, or onto a wire mesh conveyor and transported to drying areas.

Any pics? It would be nice to see how the pros are doing it.