Outstanding!!!!!!
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
LOVE IT, here's to Pig's Blood RED Pills!!!!!
Hi Guys,
Finally got to run my first couple batches through the oven, I have thermometer and was going to run my oven at 425 to make sure it held good temp, well it was a bit to good, my first to 2 batches were nearly gold in color, but they did pass the rub and smash.
I dialed the temp back to dead on 400 degrees at 10min, and my batch of 10mm 200g bullets looks okay?? I was very careful to go light my 1 st coat and overnight dry, the phone camera is ****, but as you can see they are very light green in color, notice a couple are more gold in color they were in a hot spot in the oven.
I gave them there second coat and they are drying overnight to bake tomorrow evening, with the 2nd coat applied they appear darker emerald green as expected.
So ....should I go a bit heavier on the first coat or stay were I'm at??
μολών λαβέ
Stay. Don't change anything.
The gold ones are from hot spots in your oven. If you take them out at the 5 minute mark and give them a shake. then turn the tray 90degrees and put the tray back in. this seems to even out the colour.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
^^WHat he said. Oh, and PC sucks.
Ok so after some mid to hot loads in my 45-70 I'm noticing a dark colored fouling in the bore. This was teamed up with above average smoke when shooting. (Though they were stout loads that might *** to it) Doesn't appear to be leading and cleaned out easily.
Could that be from improperly cured first coat? Maybe some coating adhering to the bore?
Either way after a couple dozen hot loads it cleaned out with a couple passes of a brush.
Has anyone else noticed anything like this?
Quick bullet sizing question with hi-tek. Have a new Kahr p380 that slugs consistently at .355. Using cast ww with Lee hardness 11-12 coated with metallic color hi-tek. Would you size casts the traditional .356? Any thoughts about going .357?
Try a handfull at each size and see what works the best.
one of my 38 supers likes .356 the other likes .357. both barrels are .355.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
How are you doing?
To try and answer your questions and observations, can you please advise which coloured coating you had used?
Also, please keep in mind, that when the coating is heat cured correctly, it does not fuse, melt with hot loads. Additional heat will in fact make coating harder, not softer, so it is unlikely that you had coating deposits inside barrel..
If coating was not cured adequately, the heat would activate coating and it will bond to barrel, and you will find it very difficult to remove.
However from your advice, you seemed to have easily cleaned out the residues, so it suggests that it may have not been coating deposits.
Deposits inside barrel can be powder residues, and, no Leading also suggests that coating held up.
I cant explain why you would have above average smoke levels.
Okay Guys,
Here are the official first runs of .44 and 10mm. I used very two thin coats of green with overnight drying, my ratio was 5-1-8 (8 acetone) to make sure I didn't go too heavy, looks to me like I may be a bit too thin in my coats?? I ran 100 round batches at 9 mins, my oven seems to heat fine, I have a thermometer inside it was solid 400F for 9mins, I think I may need to go to 8 minutes. The bullets are slick to the touch and pass smash and rub, I'm getting a little spolchly-ness, not sure how to fix that, I not going to do a third coat, cosmetically they might look better but I think it be a waste of product. Not sure why the .44 round noses, seem to have a more even finish??
Comments or critiques to improve appearances?? thanks
μολών λαβέ
I'm using the liquid gold from bayou. Purchased about a year ago.
Not sure what it could be. It didn't seem that it was leading as I could still see the rifling nice and crisp. I doubt it was coating as I remember smash testing a handful of this batch.
I'll have to load some more and try to get a decent picture of the fouling.
They look great to me.
My only observations are that some (few) are more Yellow looking.
That is normally associated with hot spots in oven. It is easily cured by taking out tray at half way point, and shake and return tray to next half of cook.
Roughness, may be simply that coating was starting to dry before placing onto drying mesh.
This tends to leave small lumps, (touch marks), which do not level and flow out with baking.
After two coats, and with sizing, all bearing surfaces should be polished and glassy smooth.
Other areas, this appearance is not problematic, only that its is not so smooth and shiny.
You are doing just fine.
If it shoots well, it is all a bonus......
gunoil, where did you find a virgin, they are rarer than rocking horse poop.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |