simple Hi-Tek coating

[HATCH]

If you have a Prime membership you get them shipped for free.
.....Blanco likes FREE....

Its not free, you paid $70 a year for it.

[Blanco]

Yoour right
I get my money's worth too
On demand movies and music Free shipping on some Items, Great sale prices on lots of things. For Christmas last year they ran a Kershaw assisted open knife on sale I bought 7 of them for the guys. Delivered to my door I think they were about $12 each.
Fantastic deal and I was the hero all of them told me it was the most useful gift they got. I hav bought most of my Lee molds from Amazon also.
It's a great deal if you use it!

[Blanco]

Want some free white epoxy PC powder to go with your HF ES gun? Oh wait, you don't yet ....

Today Attachment 114171

[Eviltoy]

08/21/2014 Pending PayPal IPN Verified [Completed (Unverified; $134.10)]
Does that mean all is in order?

[jayjay1]

Hello gents,
can´t read 193 thread sides, but did the first three.

Is there a summary or a short writeup of this theme, which explains the whole project shorter than 193 thread sites?

Please help an old lubesizer.

[HATCH]

I will send u a pm

[Avenger442]

jayjay1:
Try thread "Hi-Tek do's and don'ts" started byAusglock

[Beetmagnet]

Beetmagnet, I have identified several guns with issues of no leade in front of the chamber. Rifling is blunt right at the end of the chamber.
Take a coated boolit and knock it a little way into the rifling and back out. Look for the coating being cut by the rifling. This will happen sometimes if the boolit is oversized or the nose is large.
Had one gun that leaded badly with the Lee 45acp RN but worked great with the RCBS 45acp RN.
Another gun the chamber was not aligned with the bore of the barrel.

The thing is...I already use this exact bullet only Powder Coated, and it runs nothing short of perfection. I'm using the same bullets (COWW only) that I cast and Powder Coat with, and the Powder Coat looks a bit thicker than the Hi-Tek coating. I used the same gun, powder charge, OAL, and primers; the only thing that changed is the coating. All the Australian gents have proved this Hi-Tek works , so I know it is something I'm doing wrong, and its not the powder.

The good people at Gateway (where I bought the powder from...again super helpful...I'll be a return customer) suggested that I may be baking too long. Well...I tried shortening the baking time and that didn't work. Significant leading and smoke after testing only 10 rounds.
I'm going to try mixing some more solution with a different brand of Acetone, and see if my Acetone (that I currently use to clean bullets Powder Coating) is defective or something. I don't know...perhaps mine degraded since I opened it last year.

[jayjay1]

Thanks to HATCH and Avenger442!

[Ausglock]

Beet.
Use a little more catalyst. It will not hurt and the extra will just smoke off during the bake process.
I assume you are using the liquid coating?

[Beetmagnet]

Beet.
Use a little more catalyst. It will not hurt and the extra will just smoke off during the bake process.
I assume you are using the liquid coating?

Actually no, I'm using red copper powder.

[leadman]

Beetmagnet, I used Carnuba Red on some of the boolits coated with the Hi-Tek that were leading the guns and they did not lead.
The fact that the bearing surface is getting the HT coating scraped off when the boolit enters the rifling leads to the leading. The lack of a leade or a poorly cut chamber seem to be the reason the coating is scrapes off. Why these same boolits do not lead when lubed with a wax based lube or powder coat is something I do not know for sure. The wax lube if somewhat fluid and migrates (I think) but don't know if the PC does the same thing.

[Beetmagnet]

Beetmagnet, I used Carnuba Red on some of the boolits coated with the Hi-Tek that were leading the guns and they did not lead. .

Well...kinda hoped the Hi-Tek would let me get rid of all lubes. I'm working on it. Thank you for your recommendation though.

[Beetmagnet]

So here's an update so far. Today I did a lot of testing, and trying.

I bought brand new Acetone from Lowes and mixed a new batch last night. It was a reduced batch...10 grams of red copper Supercoat powder and 50 ml of acetone; same ratio as the directions on the container only at half amount. I let it set overnight.

Today I mixed up new batches while I was testing the other batches.
Old batch testing:
I shot 125 gr HP and 135gr no-lube-groove in the testing. All of these have passed the acetone wipe test, and the hammer test. All were previous loads that I have shot 1000's of Powder Coat bullets with. All were loaded to the same powder charge (Power Pistol), same Primers (WSP), in the same manner that has been my process thus far. I shot them through a Glock 26 (Lonewolf barrel), Glock 17 (Lonewolf barrel), Glock 34 (stock barrel), and a Smith and Wesson Shield. All were complete failures. The Glock 34 factory barrel was the worse, as you noticed accuracy problems after the 3rd or 4th shot. This was the worst leading I have ever seen. I noticed again that the leading begins an inch into the barrel, and increases until you reach the muzzle end. I guess the extra length of the Glock 34 gave more room for problems.

New batch test (done with Glock 34)
For this test I used only my convection oven, and I verified with two different thermometers; same ones I've been using for powder coating since December. This test was done with the new acetone solution. I took bullets that I cast last week; virgin cast from ingots I made last year of 100% COWW (same as all my powder coated bullets). I cleaned them with acetone, let them dry and then gave them the first coat. I used 52 135gr bullets to exactly 1cc of solution. The coat looked decent. I let it dry for 20 minutes and then baked them. I baked them at about 10 minutes at a tad shy of 400%. I let them cool 20 minutes until they were cool to the touch and then re coated. I let them dry for 20 minutes with a fan blowing on them in the 95% heat. I then cooked them another 10 minutes, same temperature. After the second coat, the bullets looked good.This batch passed the wipe test,a nd two bullets passed the smash test. I then sized it to .357 (barrel slugs at .3557 with micrometer) and shot 20 rounds. Absolute failure. Complete lead covering inside. I used Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth patches, and it literally pushed out streaks of lead.
I then took 10 of the same batch and sized it to .358...also a complete failure.

Second new batch test.
Same process as above only I cooked them at 12 minutes instead of 10. Passed the acetone test, and smash test. Failure...leaded up the barrel in 8 shots.

3rd new batch test
Same process as above only I cooked them for 6 minutes when the thermometer reached 400%. Also a failure.

I'm at a loss. I don't know where to go from here. I'm open to suggestions anybody. I'll try whatever...I really want this powder to work...it's much less labor intensive that Powder Coating.
Could it be that I have a bad batch of Powder?
I have also ordered Zombie Green powder from Gateway, and when it gets here next week or so I'll start over using that powder.

[HI-TEK]

So here's an update so far. Today I did a lot of testing, and trying.

I bought brand new Acetone from Lowes and mixed a new batch last night. It was a reduced batch...10 grams of red copper Supercoat powder and 50 ml of acetone; same ratio as the directions on the container only at half amount. I let it set overnight.

Today I mixed up new batches while I was testing the other batches.
Old batch testing:
I shot 125 gr HP and 135gr no-lube-groove in the testing. All of these have passed the acetone wipe test, and the hammer test. All were previous loads that I have shot 1000's of Powder Coat bullets with. All were loaded to the same powder charge (Power Pistol), same Primers (WSP), in the same manner that has been my process thus far. I shot them through a Glock 26 (Lonewolf barrel), Glock 17 (Lonewolf barrel), Glock 34 (stock barrel), and a Smith and Wesson Shield. All were complete failures. The Glock 34 factory barrel was the worse, as you noticed accuracy problems after the 3rd or 4th shot. This was the worst leading I have ever seen. I noticed again that the leading begins an inch into the barrel, and increases until you reach the muzzle end. I guess the extra length of the Glock 34 gave more room for problems.

New batch test (done with Glock 34)
For this test I used only my convection oven, and I verified with two different thermometers; same ones I've been using for powder coating since December. This test was done with the new acetone solution. I took bullets that I cast last week; virgin cast from ingots I made last year of 100% COWW (same as all my powder coated bullets). I cleaned them with acetone, let them dry and then gave them the first coat. I used 52 135gr bullets to exactly 1cc of solution. The coat looked decent. I let it dry for 20 minutes and then baked them. I baked them at about 10 minutes at a tad shy of 400%. I let them cool 20 minutes until they were cool to the touch and then re coated. I let them dry for 20 minutes with a fan blowing on them in the 95% heat. I then cooked them another 10 minutes, same temperature. After the second coat, the bullets looked good.This batch passed the wipe test,a nd two bullets passed the smash test. I then sized it to .357 (barrel slugs at .3557 with micrometer) and shot 20 rounds. Absolute failure. Complete lead covering inside. I used Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth patches, and it literally pushed out streaks of lead.
I then took 10 of the same batch and sized it to .358...also a complete failure.

Second new batch test.
Same process as above only I cooked them at 12 minutes instead of 10. Passed the acetone test, and smash test. Failure...leaded up the barrel in 8 shots.

3rd new batch test
Same process as above only I cooked them for 6 minutes when the thermometer reached 400%. Also a failure.

I'm at a loss. I don't know where to go from here. I'm open to suggestions anybody. I'll try whatever...I really want this powder to work...it's much less labor intensive that Powder Coating.
Could it be that I have a bad batch of Powder?
I have also ordered Zombie Green powder from Gateway, and when it gets here next week or so I'll start over using that powder.

Thanks for tour post.
Just to clarify things, all the powders were pre-tested before they were sent to the US.
They all coated well, shot well, without any problems.
My initial request are,
1, Do you use any mold release agents?
2. If you can please send a photo of first coat, before and after first coat bake.
Also, I am suspecting, that the first coat was not dried adequately, and you may have added too much coating with first coat, which also would prevent complete drying.
(It may "feel dry" but "feel" can also be misleading)
If this first inadequately dried coat is then baked, you may have a pass with solvent test and smash test, but no or poor adhesion to alloy.
3. What volumes of the mixture to projectile number are you using?
4. Have you sized a couple after first or second coat was done? What was results?
Would be happy to assist with solving any problems.

[Beetmagnet]

Thanks for tour post.
Just to clarify things, all the powders were pre-tested before they were sent to the US.
They all coated well, shot well, without any problems.
My initial request are,
1, Do you use any mold release agents?
2. If you can please send a photo of first coat, before and after first coat bake.
Also, I am suspecting, that the first coat was not dried adequately, and you may have added too much coating with first coat, which also would prevent complete drying.
(It may "feel dry" but "feel" can also be misleading)
If this first inadequately dried coat is then baked, you may have a pass with solvent test and smash test, but no or poor adhesion to alloy.
3. What volumes of the mixture to projectile number are you using?
4. Have you sized a couple after first or second coat was done? What was results?
Would be happy to assist with solving any problems.

Thanks for the reply. I don't think the powder is a problem...its got to be something I'm doing.

1 - No release agents for any reason ever. The molds I use drop bullets reliably. I drop them into a tin with paper towels. I then swish them in a sealed jar of acetone after they have cooled. Then when they're dry I put them in sealed plastic containers until I need to Powder Coat (in this case Hi-Tek coat). If need be I can recast some fresh bullets come Wednesday to coat.
2- I think this pic is before initial bake, then after first bake, then after 2nd bake. Sorry for the poor lighting. I'll get some better pics tomorrow and post them.
3 - 52 135gr projectiles (7020grs...20 grs over a pound) added to 1cc of solution. The solution is exactly 20 grams/powder to 100ml acetone.
4 - I have sized all the bullets after the second coat and there was no flaking. Sized much like my PC bullets. It left the base looking a little shiny.

I'm going to attempt to get much better pics. Anymore testing will have to wait till Wednesday when I get a day off. Until then, I'm going to coat a few batches, and let them dry overnight. Then bake...cool off...coat...and let them sit overnight. If improper drying is the problem, I'll find out Wednesday. And just in case, I'll cast some brand new bullets.

Thank you very much for the help. I'm hoping to show these babies off to the guys at the USPSA match the first week of September.

[Moonman]

Beet,

Why the Acetone bath after casting, NOT NEEDED.

I think Ausglock has stated that MIXING SMALL BATCHES of HI-TEK

is not the best way to go, possibly mix up more solution, it will keep.

[Beetmagnet]

Beet,

Why the Acetone bath after casting, NOT NEEDED.

I think Ausglock has stated that MIXING SMALL BATCHES of HI-TEK

is not the best way to go, possibly mix up more solution, it will keep.

Those are strictly for the bullets I intend to Powder Coat. I just happened to cast a whole bunch, and that's what I'm working off of. Back in the Spring I had a run of bullets that the Powder Coat was flaking off. So I started cleaning them before I Powder Coated the bullets and the problem went away. I believe in the end the problem was actually pollen on the bullets.

[HI-TEK]

Those are strictly for the bullets I intend to Powder Coat. I just happened to cast a whole bunch, and that's what I'm working off of. Back in the Spring I had a run of bullets that the Powder Coat was flaking off. So I started cleaning them before I Powder Coated the bullets and the problem went away. I believe in the end the problem was actually pollen on the bullets.

Just another quick question?
What type of alloy are you using?
I have seen some alloys form some sort of white dusty oxidation on surfaces after casting.
We investigated poor adhesion using these type of alloys, and, what ever is causing this, also interfered with coating adhesion.

[jayjay1]

...

Please excuse me for joining in this conversation.

I just wanted to ask HI-TEK coating if you will ship to Germany?
Over here many dynamic shooters (IPSC, 3gun and Steel Shooters) are using coated bullets from Ares, others are not available, and here is no offerer for any coating.

I really want to test the coating-thingy, would you send one unit to me too?


Best regards,
Jay