simple Hi-Tek coating

[Michael J. Spangler]

still getting leading in my 40 cal even with hi-tek.
the last half of the barrel leads up pretty bad.
no issues with the 9mm, 38/357,45 cap
cast 50/50 pure lead and wheel weights.
i'll try to snag some out of the berm next time i bring it to the range to see if i get any idea of whats going on

[Ausglock]

I found that my 40cal pills need 16bhn hardness to not lead. Sized. 401 for a Glock 35.

[Michael J. Spangler]

i'll try some harder boolits next time

i have some leading in my marlin 45-70 too. though i did shoot a handful of non coated boolits last weekend and haven't checked the bore on that thing in a long time (it doesn't get much use)
i'll give it a nice cleaning and try again. with the loads i was running i suspect i might need water dropped wheel weights in that gun also.
54 grains of varget under a lee 405 RNFP. can't wait to load some thumpers for this gun. it's not going to to sit around collecting dust now that i picked up a mold for it.

[leadman]

Michael, you definitely need a harder alloy. I have been heat treating the boolits before coating, then water quenching after the last coat. I have exceeded jacketed velocity in the 223 Rem and duplicated the jacketed velocities in the 30-06.
The 40 seems to be particular about what the load consists of.

[Beetmagnet]

Beetmagnet, hi-tek is not as messy as PC is. I have tried it all. The easiest method was epoxy spray paint. Nothing to mix up. Just stand the boolits up and spray them. Then bake.
I am not saying hitek is the best method out there cause no one can say that. I can say that for ME it is the best method.

I agree with you statement. The PC works for me. But deep down inside I must indulge my need to tinker; therefore bring on the Hi-Tek.

[Moonman]

Beetmagnet,

Gateway Bullets has the NEW HI-TEK Dry Powder mix it's easier to mix up than the original
Color and Catalyst then you add Acetone.

The dry mix has color and catalyst already mixed and you add Acetone.

Somebody talked to Donnie at Bayou Bullets today and Donnie told them

to call Gateway as BAYOU has a VERY Large shipment of the dry mixes that have not

yet been shipped from Australia or not arrived in the USA as of yet.

[Redwoode]

I've just finished second coating of liquid gold on a couple hundred Lee 356-102-1R for 380acp. Using some pointers from Gremlin460 and everything turned out perfect. They cast a fat 358 and I sized to 356. First sizing took all the hi-tek off to bare lead in several spots. One cavity may be a bit out of round. Regardless, I just did the second coating as normal after drying. I was surprised all I checked that were to bare lead after first sizing passed wipe and crush tests 100%. I've read not to apply coating to bare, sized bullets because it won't stick. I'm pleased to say this did. Comments?

PS: thanks for the pointers Mike (Gremlin460)

[Ausglock]

If the coating came off during sizing, It was not applied correctly.
Of the tens of thousands I have coated and sized, there has never been coating coming off during sizing.

[Redwoode]

I think I screwed up some casts by cutting sprues way too fast. First sizing actually turned a wire edge past the plain base sized nose down. Looked like coating was cut off with a sharp knife in those areas. Just happened with little Lee 2 cav die. An equal amount from MP and Hardline 4 cavs sized normally. Waited much longer for sprues to harden. I'll do more with Lee tomorrow at sensible pace. I'm just learning this casting bit too.

[Ausglock]

No worries. Get a good Micrometer and check the cast size and the bullet size after running through the sizer die.

[HATCH]

I am not a expert but I put a little lube on the coated boolits before sizing. Makes it easier and just polishes the coating when sized.

[Redwoode]

Thanks for the suggestion but couldn't that interfere with second coat of hi-tek adhesion?

[HATCH]

I coat twice then size

[HATCH]

If you are worried about being way over size then size before coating. Coat twice then size again

[Redwoode]

That's what I thought too awhile back but the other hi-tek thread below says: "any sizing before the first coat is applied interferes with adhesion." Seems it burnishes the lead not leaving much for the coating to bond to.

[HATCH]

I am not sure on that as I size after fully coating (two coats)

[Avenger442]

I've just finished second coating of liquid gold on a couple hundred Lee 356-102-1R for 380acp. Using some pointers from Gremlin460 and everything turned out perfect. They cast a fat 358 and I sized to 356. First sizing took all the hi-tek off to bare lead in several spots. One cavity may be a bit out of round. Regardless, I just did the second coating as normal after drying. I was surprised all I checked that were to bare lead after first sizing passed wipe and crush tests 100%. I've read not to apply coating to bare, sized bullets because it won't stick. I'm pleased to say this did. Comments?

PS: thanks for the pointers Mike (Gremlin460)

I have also had this experience. I have a Lee 6 cavity 452-228 1R that cast some bullets that when they are sized appear to be out of round. Sizer will strip coating from only one side. They will be hard to push through the sizer. The rest of the bullets coming out of the sizing easy and as I want them, just having the coating polished by the sizer. After coating, mine also passed wipe and smash tests. I have had to clean lead from the joining surfaces on this mold. Probably my poor casting technique letting it get too hot during casting.

[Ausglock]

Do not size before coating. It will not stick.

[Avenger442]

I believe that I remember reading somewhere in these 3700+ post that the coating will not make up for faulty casting. Based on this idea, if the bullet has a significant surface defect it makes sense sizing will peel the coating off of that defect. If the bullet alloy will not take the pressure of the load when you fire it, the coating will not make up for it (it may give you an edge when the alloy is borderline). It's not a jacket. So it makes sense excessive pressure while sizing will peel the coating.

What do you think about the above?

[HI-TEK]

I believe that I remember reading somewhere in these 3700+ post that the coating will not make up for faulty casting. Based on this idea, if the bullet has a significant surface defect it makes sense sizing will peel the coating off of that defect. If the bullet alloy will not take the pressure of the load when you fire it, the coating will not make up for it (it may give you an edge when the alloy is borderline). It's not a jacket. So it makes sense excessive pressure while sizing will peel the coating.

What do you think about the above?

Avenger442,
What you may be finding that coating is actually is being "shaved off with the Lead" with irregular surfaces.
After sizing, if you have coating stuck onto majority of other areas, then re-coating a second time should work, and this should cover areas where coating/Lead has been shaved off.
I have a few people who size after first coat, simply to remove webbing and other irregularities, then they re-coat a second time.
They are finding that this works for them, and, depending on final sized diameter being required, it may be possible not having to again re-size after second coat.
Most important, if sizing after first coat, do not use any lubes aside from 500+ or 5000 types, as you will have problems with subsequent coatings then not bonding.