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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #221
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Love Life View Post
    Does the extra slipperyness of the extreme and extreme 2 catalyst effect neck tension on taper crimped bullets?

    One of these days I'll be done with the questions.
    Love Life. it makes no difference.

    The 357Sig round has a very short neck on the case. when loading these I put the nose of the bullet against the bench and try to push the bullet back into the case. If the bullet moves, There isn't enough crimp. I adjust the crimp to suit.
    I have loaded some lee 358 125gr RNFP sized to .356 caoted in the new bright red/maroon coating in to resized 40 S&W cases made into 357Sig cases and will be firing them tomorrow. these red/maroon bullets look HOT!!!!!!
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  2. #222
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    I'm wondering how this is going to play out to lube swaged lead bullets with no grooves.

    If it does, I do believe I will go this route.

  3. #223
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    already did, works great. 380 bullets with my custom NOE. Took it back this morn to CNC shop, wanted spru plate different.

  4. #224
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickle View Post
    I'm wondering how this is going to play out to lube swaged lead bullets with no grooves.

    If it does, I do believe I will go this route.
    Nickle, it should have no effect on a swaged projectile without a lube groove. The lube grove is only there to provide an area for the traditional wax type lube. If you are coating an entire projectile with the Hi-Tek system then you would not need the groove because the entire projectile is coated in lube.

  5. #225
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    That's what I was thinking.

    I've got swaging equipment, so if I plan ahead, swaging them isn't bad, especially in the winter here, when it's WAY to cold to cast outside, or with a door open.

  6. #226
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    Question

    Swage bullet is brass, rite nickle? Will HTS stick to brass?

    NICKLE,, ??? can u post pics of your swage equipment and how you do yours?

  7. #227
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    You can swage jacketed bullets, or lead bullets (no jackets).

    I'd post pics, but I'm using a Corbin (Dave) CSP-1 press and S type dies from him. It's on his site.

    If you swage lead bullets, you don't get lube grooves. That's why I have to lube "outside the box". And, there's no need to lube a jacketed bullet.

  8. #228
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    Gunoil, you can swage either. Cut down an existing brass case and swage it with a lead core or a solid lead bullet or swaged with gas checks. The nice thing about using a swage is the versatility of the die. Want to make a hollow point...make it. Want to make it a little longer or shorter....adjust the die. It's just a slower process than casting, but it tends to be more accurate.

  9. #229
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    More accurate, and doesn't involve using a furnace. Unless you cast cores that is. Not planning on using gas checks for some of them, as the primary swaged lead bullets will be kept moderately slow, slower pistol calibers.

    Casting and smelting are pretty much seasonal here. Spring and fall. Too hot in the summer, way too cold in the winter.

  10. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gateway Bullets View Post
    Gunoil, you can swage either. Cut down an existing brass case and swage it with a lead core or a solid lead bullet or swaged with gas checks. The nice thing about using a swage is the versatility of the die. Want to make a hollow point...make it. Want to make it a little longer or shorter....adjust the die. It's just a slower process than casting, but it tends to be more accurate.
    Nice to see you adding to site.
    Much appreciated.
    Just wanted to add, that folks have used the HI-TEK coating on swaged alloys in Aus, and also on Copper plated and Jacketed ammo.
    Rifle stuff is not as big as pistol shooting here and demand volume is for pistol market.

  11. #231
    Boolit Buddy BBQJOE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunoil View Post
    mail me some BBQ, joe! How bout a brisket?
    I could, but the shipping will kill ya! I make a killer brisket in a J&R Oyler using mesquite.
    Guns should only be allowed in places where people don't want to be shot.

  12. #232
    Boolit Buddy BBQJOE's Avatar
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    duplicate post
    Guns should only be allowed in places where people don't want to be shot.

  13. #233
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    yea, i know, i love em briskets. Cant get any in NC. Iam bizzy in garage, need to learn how to.

    Over past couple nites, not long each nite, i cast bout 1200, might cast a few more in morning. The coat with HTS saturday evening.

  14. #234
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    well yea, guess ya dont coat a brass swage bullet but what is a swage lead bullet? All i know is sizeing and swage brass over lead. I know corbin, heck yea, bout 2500$. Ouch!

  15. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    Nice to see you adding to site.
    Much appreciated.
    Just wanted to add, that folks have used the HI-TEK coating on swaged alloys in Aus, and also on Copper plated and Jacketed ammo.
    Rifle stuff is not as big as pistol shooting here and demand volume is for pistol market.
    You're welcome Joe, I guess since I'm using and selling your snake oil and wallaby snot I better chime in once in a while! Lol

  16. #236
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    The lee sizing dies work great on the coated bullets, but the shorty dies from Chris "Lathesmith" are works of art. I punch bullets through at 4k per hour, hundreds of thousands through them, and they still drop like they did day 1. I think it has to be a combination of the great lube and quality die.

    I have found less coating gives a nicer looking bullet. You want thin coats and you can get a prettier bullet. I let my bullets dry as dumped out of my mixer (I go 40lbs to a tray). I give my rack a good whack when I set it down to un stick any stuck bullets then run my hands through them to make sure they are not sticking. I do the same thing as soon as they come out of the oven. I rarely get any bullets stuck together doing this, and they are almost always stuck base to base (and very difficult to separate)

    I know Joe says the coating is good for 3 days once mixed, but I found a jar that was mixed in the A/C for who knows how long and tried it on some personal bullets and it worked. When the coating turns bad it changes color IME, a kinda funky blue green color. What I do know is try to mix enough coating to cover the bullets I am coating that day, but if I over shoot, I just add it to the next days batch so my coating is always fresh.

  17. #237
    Boolit Master
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    I have some 9mm 135gr RN copper plated bullets that have been coated with Gold coating. They fired just fine.
    This Supercoat sticks to anything.
    Been playing with the red/maroon coating.
    Looks great.
    Before baking
    Click image for larger version. 

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    After final baking. Note the 2 smash tested bullets in the center of the photo.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Firing them tomorrow. Woohoo.....
    Last edited by oneokie; 04-11-2015 at 07:00 PM. Reason: language
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  18. #238
    Love Life
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    Gunoil- How is that smooth sided bullet working for you? I have been contemplating having Accurate Moulds cut me a couple smooth sided bullets just for this process. Only hurdle I have to get over is they don't make round nose moulds...

  19. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunoil View Post
    already did, works great. 380 bullets with my custom NOE. Took it back this morn to CNC shop, wanted spru plate different.
    They work great, guess were not use to lookin at stuff unless it has a lube ring, hehehehe! I shot a bunch of em. Since i have mine made 4 miles away, its all good. They scaled @ 107 i wanted 111, so hes drilling lil" deeper, also i made sproo plate holes smaller when i read tom does that. And i had him add a sproo plate handle i had laying around (lee).

    Here, old photo, I'll put up other photo when he gives it back. Hes sometimes slow, i have to call him.

  20. #240
    Boolit Buddy gundownunder's Avatar
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    OK, so who do I have to speak to to get some of this stuff in Perth and what will it cost me in Ozzy dollars.

    One question.
    After reading the rest of this thread I gather that everybody waits till the bullets start to get tacky in the tumbler and then rack them and dry them. Wouldn't it be quicker and easier to just stick a heater into the tumbler and let them dry while they tumble then stick them straight into the oven from the tumbler?
    Hard work made me what I am today,
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    Bob

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check