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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #14741
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    Cast and coated over 750 .38 boolits, some Zombie Green and some Candy Red. They drop at around .367 and need to be resized to .362. The first few were hard going and needed a bit of effort to re-size, the Candy Red being the hardest! Then I remembered I'd mixed up some lube, Aqualube I think it was (?) with metho so gave some boolits a spray and swirled them in a container. Made all the difference, much easier to re-size.

    Been quite a while since I've needed to do any so forgot how I did it.

  2. #14742
    Boolit Bub
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    I am running magma molds in autocasters are you also coating the mold faces and top
    of the molds?
    and what temp should you run the hot plate at
    thanks


    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    G'day..
    I wipe on the bonded with a brush. heat on a hotplate. Let cool and brush off excess with a soft toothbrush.
    I got 2 new Lee 6 Cav 200gn .429 molds from Titan last week.
    Wiped out with acetone on a rag, wiped on the bonded, heated for 10 mins and brushed off.

  3. #14743
    Boolit Master
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    Hotplate is set at 400Deg F.
    We run our Autocaster with all our molds coated this way.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  4. #14744
    Boolit Master




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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Hotplate is set at 400Deg F.
    We run our Autocaster with all our molds coated this way.
    To update matters on the Hi-Tek Mould releases, if you paint on a very thin film of the mixture on all surfaces that are affected with Alloy Spatter, as long as it is dried well, (allow solvent to dry off) it can be used straight away. The heat from molten alloy will help with bonding of the very thin film, and the alloy product should release straight away.
    There is some benefit of pre-heating to bond, but that heat setting/bonding can be also obtained, although occurring slower, whilst casting.
    What is needed to be kept in mind is that the film on surfaces will release with and without heat curing after it is dry.

  5. #14745
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    I have issues with leading in a compensator when using my Hitek-coated bullets. I normally use 2 coats, but I have tried 3 coats and still get some leading. No leading in the barrel, just in the compensator.
    One of my commercial reloading customers has also had the same issue with his "open" class shooters that run compensators.
    John 15:13
    Greater love hath no man than this, that a man lay down his life for his friends.

  6. #14746
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jhopson View Post
    I have issues with leading in a compensator when using my Hitek-coated bullets. I normally use 2 coats, but I have tried 3 coats and still get some leading. No leading in the barrel, just in the compensator.
    One of my commercial reloading customers has also had the same issue with his "open" class shooters that run compensators.
    G'day. a lot of IPSC Open Div shooters run my bullets. I run them myself in STI Turbor and STI Grandmaster open guns in 38 Supercomp, both at major power factor. Bullets are 2 coats on 125gn Conicals sized to .357 and 125gn SWC also sized to .357. Powder is W540 or Australian made AP-100. No leading in bores or Comps.
    I did have 1 customer say they got leading in their comp when the changed from AP-100 powder to Win Autocomp powder. But when they went to .357" dia from .356" dia the leading disappeared.

    Local Gunsmith here (Works Precision Arms) is the Australian SV dealer, every SV open gun or STD gun he builds uses my 125gn SWC sized to .358"Dia. He supplies a box of our bullets to his specs when his customer collects the new gun. We sell a lot of bullets to his customers once they start shooting their new guns.
    So May I suggest trying a few 100 sized larger?

    Seems to work here.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  7. #14747
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    G'day. a lot of IPSC Open Div shooters run my bullets. I run them myself in STI Turbor and STI Grandmaster open guns in 38 Supercomp, both at major power factor. Bullets are 2 coats on 125gn Conicals sized to .357 and 125gn SWC also sized to .357. Powder is W540 or Australian made AP-100. No leading in bores or Comps.
    I did have 1 customer say they got leading in their comp when the changed from AP-100 powder to Win Autocomp powder. But when they went to .357" dia from .356" dia the leading disappeared.

    Local Gunsmith here (Works Precision Arms) is the Australian SV dealer, every SV open gun or STD gun he builds uses my 125gn SWC sized to .358"Dia. He supplies a box of our bullets to his specs when his customer collects the new gun. We sell a lot of bullets to his customers once they start shooting their new guns.
    So May I suggest trying a few 100 sized larger?

    Seems to work here.
    I will give it a try. Thanks for the help.


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    John 15:13
    Greater love hath no man than this, that a man lay down his life for his friends.

  8. #14748
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=AbitNutz;5581166]Can you use softer bullets than you normally would for a given velocity than you normally would? I typically try to blend whatever I have to a about Lyman #2 or about 15 Brinnel. I'd like to use less linotype in the mix as it's getting harder to get.[/QUOTE

    Saw your question and thought I would chime in. I usually shoot 12 BHN in .308 gas checked and two to three coats (depending on ho lazy I am at the time) with no leading. Speed is usually between 2500 to 2600 fps. I have shot magnum pistol bullets with two coats that were in th 11 BHN range.

    I once ran a test with 14 BHN in 308 speed just under 2400 with one coat . But understand Hi Tek doesn’t recommend it. Oh and it didn’t lead the barrel.

    My problem is I don’t have much experience wit other lubes so I don’t know their limits. I got lucky and found this coating about the time I started casting. Other than some testing with PC I’ve used nothing else.

    Shoot 223, 308, 45-70, 45auto, 44mag, 357 mag and a few others. All coated with Hi Tek. And in almost 10 years of using and thousands of rounds have had only two very minor leading instances.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  9. #14749
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=AbitNutz;5581166]Can you use softer bullets than you normally would for a given velocity than you normally would? I typically try to blend whatever I have to a about Lyman #2 or about 15 Brinnel. I'd like to use less linotype in the mix as it's getting harder to get.[/QUOTE

    Saw your question and thought I would chime in. I usually shoot 12 BHN in .308 gas checked and two to three coats (depending on ho lazy I am at the time) with no leading. Speed is usually between 2500 to 2600 fps. I have shot magnum pistol bullets with two coats that were in th 11 BHN range.

    I once ran a test with 14 BHN in 308 speed just under 2400 with one coat . But understand Hi Tek doesn’t recommend it. Oh and it didn’t lead the barrel.

    My problem is I don’t have much experience wit other lubes so I don’t know their limits. I got lucky and found this coating about the time I started casting. Other than some testing with PC I’ve used nothing else.

    Shoot 223, 308, 45-70, 45auto, 44mag, 357 mag and a few others. All coated with Hi Tek. And in almost 10 years of using and thousands of rounds have had only two very minor leading instances.

    By the way I only use L2 and Lino to tweak alloys for consistency in my 300 PRC.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  10. #14750
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Please excuse double post.

    Hello to Joe and Trevor. Haven’t talked with you for a while.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  11. #14751
    Boolit Master




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    Quote Originally Posted by Avenger442 View Post
    Please excuse double post.

    Hello to Joe and Trevor. Haven’t talked with you for a while.
    Hello Avenger
    Glad you posted some stuff. Have not heard from you for a while. The site has been very quiet.
    Hope you are well, and things are going OK.

  12. #14752
    Boolit Master

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    Getting ready to order some powdered HI-TEK from Missouri Bullets and give it a try.

  13. #14753
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    You know we men don’t read all the instructions

    Don’t do what I did at first and try to coat thick. It is not a jacket for your bullet. And thick coats don’t work well. I’ve actually been adding a little extra acetone to mine to make it thinner than directions. It really works well.

    Directions are written for what I call an “open tumble”. I use a plastic bowl with a lid. Or “closed tumble” of the bullets. Either one works. I used open when I started.

    Im not one overly crazy about getting the color right. I use it for its performance as a lube.

    Last comment. Your going to love this stuff when you get it.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  14. #14754
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Have missed talking with you guys.

    Have been basically well. A few medical issues but nothing serious. You know we just don’t work well physically when we get old. You can identify with that Joe.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  15. #14755
    Boolit Master Gremlin460's Avatar
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    I got my hands on a Colt Python original series in 8" , should be more accurate now as the muzzle is 2" closer to the target. Also got a LeePro 1000 , buts siezed solid. I shoud have that back working in a day or two.
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  16. #14756
    Boolit Master
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    So... after 10 years of hitek coating many different alloys and bullet shapes. getting them fired in many different handguns of varying calibres and velocities. I can now say that leading is non existent when using Hitek coating. Even in the ports of compenators, there is no lead.

    I have now been approached to journey overseas to setup a bullet manufacturing coating plant and train their staff in the correct practices for commercial use of HITEK coating. They have tried powdercoating and found it not to be suitable for high volume production. So, HITEK gets the nod.
    Interesting times ahead. I hope they understand Australian lingo...lol
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  17. #14757
    Boolit Master
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    I have doing Hi-Tek for about 10 years and have not had to clean any lead out of my barrels.

    I know one local commercial bullet caster who tried to sell Hi-Tek coated bullets to a commercial reloader but the high-volume production beat the coating off the bullets.
    The coating passed the smash test but the equipment was removing small amounts of lead with the coating, this was not the coating fault but the way it was handled. This was with the 6-2-92 alloy.

    When I coach a reloader on loading Hi-Tek bullets I tell them to pull a loaded bullet and see if the coating in still intact, if it is and the bullet is still .002" over bore da then you are good to go.

  18. #14758
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Ausglock
    I've been using it for about nine years in my hand guns and rifles. And I will ditto what you said about the lead in the barrel. The .308s have had thousands of loads shot in them at around 2600 fps with no lead. I don't shoot the .223 as much but at 3000+ fps no lead in it.

    Welcome to the US when you get here. Hopefully will have the opportunity to shoot some of the guns they will not allow you to own in Australia.

    I've been hunting some Alliant RL26 for a load in .300 PRC and just can't find any. I contacted the manufacturer and they said they were making all of their powders. So I decided to goose it from the other end. Contacted several of the companies I buy from. Only one replied, the one I deal with most. They said it had been on back order for a long time. So maybe they are not.

    In this whole process of hunting the powder I ran into a guy working the counter at Shooter Warehouse , a store near me.. I go by there from time to time to look at what they have in stock. He also said they had not seen any RL26 in a long time. But he had an extra eight pound unopened at his house. Unfortunately I couldn't get him to sell it to me. During that conversation I discovered that he uses commercially coated Hi Tek bullets in his hand guns. I told him about coating myself and using it in my rifles. He seemed interested and may be the next one to try it.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  19. #14759
    Boolit Buddy
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    I just started using Hi-Tek. The instructions are well written and I followed them and everything worked as expected. I think the key was having a PID on the toaster oven to make sure I had the right temp.

  20. #14760
    Boolit Master
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    For me the key is getting the 1st completely dry before baking and not getting the coating to thick. Good to hear it worked for you the first time.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check