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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #9461
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    No point quenching for hardness and then coating as the heat in the oven will likely remove any additional hardness you gained. If you need a specific hardness then you will have to use an alloy that will give you this. If anything, using Hi-Tek should enable you to get more consistent results shooting as there will be no possible buildup of lead/lube in the barrel to affect subsequent shots. As for sizing, I use two coats and then size, that way I end up with the boolit size I want.

    As for the oven, if it's a smallish toaster-size oven try just using the centre rack position only. Putting them too close to an element (at the top or bottom) may cause uneven heating. You may have to experiment a little to find out what works best.

  2. #9462
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
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    My benchtop convection oven.
    This one will bake 1 tray of 250 bullets in 12 minutes. I use the middle tray and turn the tray 90deg at the 1/2 way time point.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  3. #9463
    Boolit Master HI-TEK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    My benchtop convection oven.
    This one will bake 1 tray of 250 bullets in 12 minutes. I use the middle tray and turn the tray 90deg at the 1/2 way time point.
    Love those knee caps... almost model quality...lol...lol

  4. #9464
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    I actually got the small convection oven to bake properly. I did 5 lbs and the first coat didn't rub off. This is a table top convection oven. I'll work on the big Manuel electric oven to get that running properly with Hi-Tek. I'm using the one with PC and 30 lbs of projectiles with ease. The PC is stupid easy to bake properly and I do the shape n bake all layed out on a cookie tray. I like the colors that Hi-Tek had to offer. I'll get there after over one year of trial failer.

  5. #9465
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    From : Glockfan
    "you're raising the question i was about to ask to you guys, since you're much more experienced casters than me : do i have to expect A LITTLE LESS ACCURACY than the commercial zero's i was using before ?

    i mean...with the zero's i was using for bullseye and at the games, i was able to keep my groupings very very tight, on good days a ragged hole at typical distances . can i expect the same consistency from my coated bullets?"

    You guys shoot a lot of handgun. I shoot mostly rifle. And have gotten hooked on the idea of how accurate can I shoot my cast bullets. Your right in that it depends on a lot of things. I don't compete except against my self. And I have only been hand loading for about four years and I'm still tuning in where I want to be as far as group size. My typical in .308 at 100 yards is 1 1/2". And have put four in one ragged hole with the 5th making it 1 1/2". You can get the accuracy you want but will work for it.
    Last edited by Avenger442; Yesterday at 02:23 PM. Reason: seperation
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens..

  6. #9466
    Boolit Master
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    Quench after coating and sizing as the WW will get to 19 BHN. I do that and mine get at the every time.

  7. #9467
    Quote Originally Posted by TonyN View Post
    Quench after coating and sizing as the WW will get to 19 BHN. I do that and mine get at the every time.
    i tought quenching AFTER hi tek coating was NOT recommended? !

  8. #9468
    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Most molds will throw within .5gn from cavity to cavity.

    But the molds from Accuratemolds.com have less than .3gn.
    Drop Tom an email at accuratemolds.com.
    I have hand casting molds and machine casting molds from him in Ali and they are brilliant. And he will make them with no lube groove. Perfect for Hitek coating.
    thanks for the cue ausglock. i've sent him a message to see what he can do for my mighty fourty's . if he can make me a mold, i would resell my lyman moulds to a friend who is in need . he's broken atm and would sell him my lyman for half the price.

  9. #9469
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockfan View Post
    i tought quenching AFTER hi tek coating was NOT recommended? !
    I an effort to see what could happen by hardening of the lead by quenching I did a couple of experiments. Results gave me the opinion that with baked bullets PC or Hi Tek it just wasn't worth the effort. First, unless you use contaminated water, there is no problem with the binding of the coating to the lead. Second, while it is true that baking after quenching does remove most or all of the benefit to BHN, with the right alloy you can gain some points on the BHN scale. Just not enough to make it worth it to me.

    Because you guys that compete need to control variances and make everything as repeatably the same as possible in order to win I can agree with Treavor about purchasing a known alloy from some place like Roto Metals. You need a control on the hardness of the bullet. Because it would introduce another process or variable in the mix, I don't think I would quench the bullet if I was competing. Just buy another alloy.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens..

  10. #9470
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    A lot of guys that cast just want to shoot a lot as cheaply as possible. Not necessarily concerned with one ragged holes. So wheel weights and scrap lead come into play. Just yesterday I purchased plumbing, flashing and ballast lead from the scrap yard. All of this is almost pure lead at $36 for about 46 pounds. Roto Metals is about $2.50 a pound for 99.9% pure lead. So there is a significant difference in cost. The scrap yard is selling me wheel weights, my main ingredient, for seventeen cents a pound and lets me sort through them to eliminate the zinc and steel weights before paying. I do buy tin from time to time and when I first started I bought some lino type. The tin is great at about 2% to help the lead flow into the mold. It helps make smoother better formed bullets. I thought I would need the lino but it has been three years now and the only thing I have seen it help is when I shoot a real small bullet real fast. In some cases making the bullet harder actually hurt it's accuracy so I've got about half of it left. I know I get a little long winded sometimes in trying to say something. But, for me, part of the fun in casting and shooting is the experimentation and seeing what can be done with what I can put together as cheaply as possible. If I were competing it would most likely give me a different center of thought on tight control of alloy BHN.

    So what does this have to do with this thread on Hi Tek? Well it works even with the cheap stuff. Oh, by the way, it is cheap to use. That's me, old squeeze a penny till it yells Avenger442.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens..

  11. #9471
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockfan View Post
    thanks for the cue ausglock. i've sent him a message to see what he can do for my mighty fourty's . if he can make me a mold, i would resell my lyman moulds to a friend who is in need . he's broken atm and would sell him my lyman for half the price.
    He made me a 210gn FP 40 mold. A few guys here that compete internationally, wanted a heavy 40 bullet. Tom made the 5 cavity handcast mold. I made 1000 and handed them out to the guys to try. All are impressed with the accuracy. I now need Tom to cut 6 sets of molds for the autocaster.

    Hitek. Stop perving on my knees, ya sicko...lol
    Last edited by Ausglock; Yesterday at 06:33 PM.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  12. #9472
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    Avenger, I only shoot Single Action cowboy stuff (pistol calibre), so perfection in alloy and boolit weight isn't critical to me, but I find your efforts at pushing the limits with rifle calibres and Hi-Tek fascinating. Keep up the good work.

  13. #9473
    Boolit Master
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    I have a 44 SWC Keith Style mold from my master caster I use I would like to sell if you guys want to buy it. I'm just glad I finally got the Hi-tek to work lol.

  14. #9474
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dikman View Post
    Avenger, I only shoot Single Action cowboy stuff (pistol calibre), so perfection in alloy and boolit weight isn't critical to me, but I find your efforts at pushing the limits with rifle calibres and Hi-Tek fascinating. Keep up the good work.
    I appreciate the fascination. But it all just fun right? And I have high regard for those that compete. Takes steady hands, good eyes and mental concentration. There are some guys that shoot Cowboy every other Sunday at the range near my house. I get to hear the bang bang bang after church.

    Tony
    It has been a long road for you. But glad to see you got it working. Now the fun part.

    Hopefully the weather will let me test the PC and Hi Tek 38 Specials this week. Longest period of lows in the teens and highs just at freezing we have had in a long time. Lake still had ice in it until yesterday. Whipped up a homemade adjustable rest out of scrap and some parts from my rifle rest that looks like it will take most of the shooters bad habits out of the equation. Not a Ransom rest but okay.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens..

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check