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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #10441
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    CamoWhamo
    Just curious, what was distance to the target?
    It is interesting that both lubed and coated pills shot left side of target. Could that be just an adjustment being required?
    Range was indoors at 25m, fired off the bench, with iron sights.

    Don't know why my bench shots were all slightly left on both rifles. I presumed it was because the single light source was to my left so that side of my front blades were well lit which tricks the eye to pulling that way.

    I fired 30 other Hi-Tek bullets off-hand and they were all slightly right, which destroys my theory

  2. #10442
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    Quote Originally Posted by CamoWhamo View Post
    Range was indoors at 25m, fired off the bench, with iron sights.

    Don't know why my bench shots were all slightly left on both rifles. I presumed it was because the single light source was to my left so that side of my front blades were well lit which tricks the eye to pulling that way.

    I fired 30 other Hi-Tek bullets off-hand and they were all slightly right, which destroys my theory

    CamoWhamo
    That is interesting, I wonder why bench rest is biased left and freehand is to the right?
    Any way, you have done well with the accuracy you obtained at 25 Yards. That is great grouping.

    I have reports of 100 and 200 yard shots being in a bout 3 to 4 inch groups with coated cast.
    I was told that commercial jacketed ammo produces similar grouping at those distances.

  3. #10443
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    195°C / 12 min worked good for me, I'm trying to get back from overbaking to get the colors the way they are supposed to be. Got a nice Black Cherry batch with a hint of gold right now. Tests ok. Thanks!

    Attachment 225569

    In 200°C /12 min these would be all black in my oven. Even 7min/200°C makes them a little dark, very good shooters though. I've experimented up to 215°C ,coating works and no fear of underbaking... but no nice colours either at those temps.

    Every oven is an individual,of course. My temp @195°C is the same from the beginning to the end, no initial temp drop at all. Because the oven is 215 °C before I open the door and 2kW power helps,too.

    EDIT: I tried 195/12 with Kryptonite Green and it got completely toasted into bronze. I need to start making notes.

    Attachment 225580

    EDIT2: While at it, I gave those another green coat 195@°C/8 min. Looks more green.

    Attachment 225581

    Me being the Official Mystery Metal Man, my bakings may differ from yours because of my contaminated alloy. All these shoot clean and great though!
    something regarding the color......i kind of protect the boolits from the coil's direct radiation to make sure it's the radiant temperature only that gets to the boolits.i noticed that even left much more time in the oven,mine never turn burnt-black ,it's only the color that goes darker to a certain point....then it stabilize and the color stay in the same tonal even if i leaves them well past the 15 minutes mark.

    i set the oven at 450f waiyt for it to reach that point and slip the tray in.leave the setting temp as is, because the temp drops on openings. then the temp get back at 400,it's only then i set the temp back at 400 to make sure it won't go too hot. i don't really let them in for an predetermined time,i eyeball the color through the window's glass ; i noticed i'm getting the nicest color at about the 16 minutes mark.

  4. #10444
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    I have reports of 100 and 200 yard shots being in about 3 to 4 inch groups with coated cast.
    I was told that commercial jacketed ammo produces similar grouping at those distances.
    Joe
    Hi Tek coating can be shot at under an inch at 100 yards. But there is a whole lot of other things, besides your great coating, that have to be done to make that happen.

    I was at the range yesterday with the 45-70 and some 405 grain bullets coated with Hi Tek testing a new powder and different loads. Second round of five shots came in just over 2 1/2". Now I would like to have under an inch so I'm not where I want to go yet. But I can use Hi Tek as a part of the process to get there.

    Attachment 225624

    Obviously have some scope adjusting to do
    Last edited by Avenger442; 08-18-2018 at 01:14 PM.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  5. #10445
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    Has anyone tried spraying on HiTek?
    Like for larger / odd shaped objects?

  6. #10446
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grmps View Post
    Has anyone tried spraying on HiTek?
    Like for larger / odd shaped objects?
    GRMPS,
    Years ago, I had a guy apply the Gold, and Bronze coatings to Terracotta Pots. HE warm air dried them and baked them
    He ended up with a finish that looked as if the pots were made of Metal. It also sealed the pores of the pot so he said that was a benefit so plants would not dry out so fast.
    Sorry for off subject blog
    Old Bears Hair also posted some pictures of arrow type heads painted Gold. Most interesting.

  7. #10447
    Boolit Buddy smlekid's Avatar
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    Had a post shoot today and recovered a couple of 45 Boolits




    these were cast from nearly pure lead with just a little bit of wheel weights
    mould was one of NOE's 230gr hollow point load was 6grs of unique shot into a 40mm thick piece of laminate building material (mdf?) at 15 metres
    our team of 3 shooters managed to knock it over in 56 seconds all shooting 1911's in 45
    this is the actual post we shot at

    a view down range
    Last edited by smlekid; 01-02-2020 at 07:28 AM.

  8. #10448
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smlekid View Post
    Had a post shoot today and recovered a couple of 45 Boolits


    these were cast from nearly pure lead with just a little bit of wheel weights
    mould was one of NOE's 230gr hollow point load was 6grs of unique shot into a 40mm thick piece of laminate building material (mdf?) at 15 metres
    our team of 3 shooters managed to knock it over in 56 seconds all shooting 1911's in 45
    this is the actual post we shot at

    a view down range
    Man, that's a brute test with soft lead, that was some hard tough wood! I'd call that a success for Hi-Tek, no signs of flaking there! How the bores look with that soft lead, any leading in the groves?
    Be careful what you wish for!

  9. #10449
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    I love a good woodchop.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  10. #10450
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    I love a good woodchop.
    Look at them splinters, that's how to make toothpicks the fun way! LoL
    Be careful what you wish for!

  11. #10451
    Boolit Buddy smlekid's Avatar
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    It looks like I have some Leading kind of expected I would with that soft an alloy perhaps 38 rounds in 56 seconds contributed
    I was looking for expansion I normally run 50/50 WW PB and don't have any leading issues

  12. #10452
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smlekid View Post
    It looks like I have some Leading kind of expected I would with that soft an alloy perhaps 38 rounds in 56 seconds contributed
    I was looking for expansion I normally run 50/50 WW PB and don't have any leading issues
    I would say that's to be expected for soft lead, in my book anyways. Looks like the coating did it's part, even next to where the lead is ripped from crushing & wood fibers the coating can be seen, it didn't flake off. Shot a lot of lead over the years, a little leading never bothers me, a Lewis Lead Remover cleans it faster then cleaning powder fouling with Hoppes, no big deal. I'd be more then happy with what you got there using that soft of lead.
    Be careful what you wish for!

  13. #10453
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    Quote Originally Posted by smlekid View Post
    It looks like I have some Leading kind of expected I would with that soft an alloy perhaps 38 rounds in 56 seconds contributed
    I was looking for expansion I normally run 50/50 WW PB and don't have any leading issues
    smlekid
    That's impressive. Do you know what is coating thickness in the tested cast?
    I was wondering, after you get a thin well bonded first coat, can you apply two extra coats, which can be thicker. (Of course bake each extra ones first before next application)
    I am thinking, that by getting about 2-3.5 thou coating over that soft Lead, alloy may (or may not) survive with that extra coating thickness, and stop the Leading at the end of Barrel.
    The only way to see if there is any benefit is to try it? If it works, then great. If not, not much is lost.

  14. #10454
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    guys...i have to ask you what is the best lead remover, OR a good substitute. i have very light leading in my glocks's grooves due to the fact that i'm shooting .356 diameter in them ( i normally feed'em with .357 ) from time to time. i don't care at all about some leading after 6-700 boolits ,it's only in the grooves at the end of the barrel, but i'd like to get a product that works kind of instantly,that i don't need to pull the brush out then swinging it in for minutes.

    any advices?

  15. #10455
    Boolit Master OldBearHair's Avatar
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    Seems that applying two more coats of Hi-Tek Gold on those .356 boolits would fix the problem. Maybe bring them up to around .357 It seemed to work for me. How is that for not making any direct statements? LOL

  16. #10456
    Boolit Master OldBearHair's Avatar
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    Back to the subject, I found a 20" roll of fine screen copper at the junk yard. I cut small square to fit the barrel and push in the barrel and remove the copper patch. If possible run in the barrel from receiver end. Yall know how to do that, huh (w/Texas accent)

  17. #10457
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockfan View Post
    guys...i have to ask you what is the best lead remover, OR a good substitute. i have very light leading in my glocks's grooves due to the fact that i'm shooting .356 diameter in them ( i normally feed'em with .357 ) from time to time. i don't care at all about some leading after 6-700 boolits ,it's only in the grooves at the end of the barrel, but i'd like to get a product that works kind of instantly,that i don't need to pull the brush out then swinging it in for minutes.

    any advices?
    The Dip. But only for stainless barrels.

    My mix is 50/50 hydrogen peroxide(30%) and distilled vinegar. Here is a cast bullet I dropped in a bottle cap with The Dip. This happens in seconds,lead dissolves quickly.

    Just plug the barrel and pour The Dip in. But stainless only.

    Attachment 225720

  18. #10458
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldBearHair View Post
    Back to the subject, I found a 20" roll of fine screen copper at the junk yard. I cut small square to fit the barrel and push in the barrel and remove the copper patch. If possible run in the barrel from receiver end. Yall know how to do that, huh (w/Texas accent)
    OldBearHair
    That is great thinking and very practical. Essentially you made a Copper sanding mesh that is hard enough to clean off Lead, but not hard enough to affect the Bore.
    Great advice, and is cheap, and uses no corrosive chemicals.

  19. #10459
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    The Dip. But only for stainless barrels.

    My mix is 50/50 hydrogen peroxide(30%) and distilled vinegar. Here is a cast bullet I dropped in a bottle cap with The Dip. This happens in seconds,lead dissolves quickly.

    Just plug the barrel and pour The Dip in. But stainless only.

    Attachment 225720
    Petander,
    That is impressive.
    I am thinking you are a mad scientist with many secrets up your sleeve.

  20. #10460
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    The Dip. But only for stainless barrels.

    My mix is 50/50 hydrogen peroxide(30%) and distilled vinegar. Here is a cast bullet I dropped in a bottle cap with The Dip. This happens in seconds,lead dissolves quickly.

    Just plug the barrel and pour The Dip in. But stainless only.

    Attachment 225720
    thanks a lot petander.will try this . it's just that i cast some for couple folks at the range,my friend has a shadow who like the .356, and since i have loads of it as well as .357's,i may shoot a couple boxes after i'm done with my usual 357's. then i'm getting a little leading. it's a testament as how hi tek prevent leading. i can imagine what my barrel would look like shooting .356's without the coating. lead would probably flow out after only 200 rounds lolll.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check