simple Hi-Tek coating

[Gatch]

Sorry I tried some coww+2% in the acid and it had no visible reaction. No bubbling or noticable change in temp. I figured if my bottom pour pot or the galv bucket I use to coat the bullets was the culprit that I would eliminate that by acid washing a batch of the new foundry lead.

[Ausglock]

In all the years we have been using 2.6.92 alloy from Northern Smelters, we have never had bonding issues. They make good stuff.
also... just a thought.... you ARE using Acetone..... Diggers brand or similar from Bunnings, not Supercheap general purpose thinners???

[Gatch]

Definitely acetone. With the amounts properly measured out.

[HI-TEK]

Sorry I tried some coww+2% in the acid and it had no visible reaction. No bubbling or noticable change in temp. I figured if my bottom pour pot or the galv bucket I use to coat the bullets was the culprit that I would eliminate that by acid washing a batch of the new foundry lead.

Just a few questions;
1. How long did you soak in acid the "mystery" alloy? You say no visible reaction.
(There may have been no visible reaction)
2. Did you try and coat the "mystery" alloy after washing and drying it?
3. Did you use the Galvanized bucket to acid wash? If not what did you use?
4. What was acid mix, (water and Acid)?
5. Did you closely examine surface of acid washed (mystery) alloy?... and was there any change in surface appearance?
6. I again ask, why did you acid wash the foundry alloy, and, in what container did you do the acid wash of the foundry metal? I don't think that you would have seen any change in foundry metal after acid wash.
Please advise with more details.

[Gremlin460]

I still got those coated casts for you to try Gatch...

[Gatch]

Just a few questions;
1. How long did you soak in acid the "mystery" alloy? You say no visible reaction.
(There may have been no visible reaction)
about 20minutes
2. Did you try and coat the "mystery" alloy after washing and drying it?
I didn't. I thought that not seeing any real reaction indicated it wasn't the lead mix that is the problem, that maybe it was something else that I'm doing
3. Did you use the Galvanized bucket to acid wash? If not what did you use?
definitely not. The best thing I could think of was an ldpe bucket. I will try coating in a plastic bucket and see if that helps
4. What was acid mix, (water and Acid)?
1 HCL:2 Water
5. Did you closely examine surface of acid washed (mystery) alloy?... and was there any change in surface appearance?
yes. The surface of all the bullets become a very uniform dull grey. They didnt feel as smooth as when they were fresh cast. Almost like they had been lightly sanded.
6. I again ask, why did you acid wash the foundry alloy, and, in what container did you do the acid wash of the foundry metal? I don't think that you would have seen any change in foundry metal after acid wash.
Please advise with more details.

I wanted to see if the foundry lead would do anything different to the scrap lead I've been using. And it didn't. it looked the same dull grey after sitting in the acid for a bit

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=Gatch;4723706]
5. Did you closely examine surface of acid washed (mystery) alloy?... and was there any change in surface appearance?
yes. The surface of all the bullets become a very uniform dull grey. They didn't feel as smooth as when they were fresh cast. Almost like they had been lightly sanded.

Gatch,
That is exactly what I was hoping to happen. The surface, after acid wash, will look like sandblasted surface and if magnified will look porous. That is exactly what will allow good bonding by the removal of materials that may have interfered with bonding in the first place. You should have washed dried and coated this acid treated alloy. I am sure that results would be much different to your first one.

[Petander]

[QUOTE=HI-TEK;4723713]

5. Did you closely examine surface of acid washed (mystery) alloy?... and was there any change in surface appearance?
yes. The surface of all the bullets become a very uniform dull grey. They didn't feel as smooth as when they were fresh cast. Almost like they had been lightly sanded.

Gatch,
That is exactly what I was hoping to happen. The surface, after acid wash, will look like sandblasted surface and if magnified will look porous. That is exactly what will allow good bonding by the removal of materials that may have interfered with bonding in the first place. You should have washed dried and coated this acid treated alloy. I am sure that results would be much different to your first one.

Yes,that is exactly what I'm doing to get good bonding.

My fresh cast bullets look shiny, like chromed. I soak them all overnight in HCL (30%) so they become dull grey. Rinse them up and dry. Coat. Great bonding.

My alloy contaminant is trace amounts of Niobium, got it XRF:d after struggling with my initial coating problems. HCL soak solved it all and happens by itself. I soak everything I cast.

[Gatch]

[QUOTE=Petander;4725902]

Yes,that is exactly what I'm doing to get good bonding.

My fresh cast bullets look shiny, like chromed. I soak them all overnight in HCL (30%) so they become dull grey. Rinse them up and dry. Coat. Great bonding.

My alloy contaminant is trace amounts of Niobium, got it XRF:d after struggling with my initial coating problems. HCL soak solved it all and happens by itself. I soak everything I cast.

That's good feedback. Thanks mate

[Gremlin460]

Today:-
Beretta 92FS inox, 200 rounds 358dia - No leading
S&W 1911 pro Series 85 rounds 356 dia - No leading.
Colt Python 6" 50 38 spl & 50 357 mag , both 358 LSWC - No Leading

[jsizemore]

I don't know if this helps with folk's bonding issues. I usually lube the top of the blocks and sprue plate with 2 cycle lube. If I do that in the middle of a casting session coating bond is an issue. Now at the end of a casting session I'll lube rather heavily with the lubed Q-tip and those bullets and the next 5-6 casts get returned to the pot. By the time I cast again there are no issues as a result of lube contamination.

[Ausglock]

I used to use the 2 stroke oil. But since moving to the Hitek mold release/sprueplate lube, every bullet is good from the get go.
dip a Qtip and wipe it over the mold top. drys instantly and will last for over 25,000 bullets on the autocaster.

[Michael J. Spangler]

I used to use the 2 stroke oil. But since moving to the Hitek mold release/sprueplate lube, every bullet is good from the get go.
dip a Qtip and wipe it over the mold top. drys instantly and will last for over 25,000 bullets on the autocaster.

So there is not chance of contamination with this release spray?

[Ausglock]

So there is not chance of contamination with this release spray?

None at all. The coating works perfectly on bullets from molds that have been sprayed with the HITEK release agent.

[Michael J. Spangler]

None at all. The coating works perfectly on bullets from molds that have been sprayed with the HITEK release agent.

Time to place an order I guess. Do you know if Donnie carries this stuff?

[Burnt Fingers]

http://hi-performancebulletcoatings.com/sizing-lube/

Quicker to check the website than type the question.

[Michael J. Spangler]

http://hi-performancebulletcoatings.com/sizing-lube/

Quicker to check the website than type the question.

Forgive me for asking questions on a forum. I'll try not to do it again

Also you linked to the wrong product. I had check Donnie's website and didn't see it listed. It's listed on bayou but I prefer to buy from Donnie. I believe he sold Bayou Bullets

[Ausglock]

yep... link to wrong stuff.

The sizing lube is Aqualube.
The mold release is some other weird Joe stupid number stuff..

Joe....FFS.... sort out the naming of your products...

[Tazza]

yep... link to wrong stuff.

The sizing lube is Aqualube.
The mold release is some other weird Joe stupid number stuff..

Joe....FFS.... sort out the naming of your products...

500 plus was the plate lube i got off him.

I should give some aqualube a go, i have been casting some 158s but my sizer every so often just flips me off. After coating they are about .360, i pushed about 20 through un-coated without any issues through a .357 die, but after coating some just refused to play, i wonder if aqualube would have helped me with this. I'm going to try and do some progressive sizing, .359, then .358, then .357 see if it fixes my issues. I just need to make said dies though..... More steps that i really didn't need, in the future i may try and size after applying and cooking one coat, then apply 2 more after then size again.

[wlkjr]

You shouldn't size before applying the Hi-Tek coating. Apply at least one coat and then size. Using the Aqualube will definitely make the sizing easier. I put mine in a plastic bag and spritz some on and roll them around and let dry about 5 minutes before sizing.