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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #10561
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    Petander's Avatar
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    Firelapping experiment looks good. Now I'm getting this after one J-bullet:

    Attachment 226853

  2. #10562
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    I FINALLY got time to put some red 122 on some round lead things. The first bake wasn't long enough, but a second round made them pass the wipe test. I hoped that leaving them in for 12 minutes at 180c that the oven was set to for the coating i was using before, but it wasn't. I left them in longer and no issues. I then went up to 200c so i knew it would work as it should.

    I don't like the fact that the lube grooves are not all covered, i know it's not an issue for performance, but i just know people that buy them off me will say something, even though that part does not touch the barrel. This is where Ausglock has the right idea, moulds without lube groves, so they have a perfect looking coating.

    I did find putting a little more Hi-Tek on then shaking, did help with coverage, it may just be one of those things to fiddle with to get the lube grooves filled in. They sure are nice and shiny too, darker than i thought it would be, but it's a fine colour none the less.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #10563
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    I found that by using a coating with a little more acetone added it was easy to cover lube grooves. Regards Stephen

  4. #10564
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    The first coat was done with a ratio of 120ml acetone to 20grams of hi-tek. I didn't use much for the first coat though, so that may have been my issue. I started with 1ml for a gloved hand full of projectiles, the second and third coats, i did 2ml of 100ml:20grams, so i think i just need to fiddle and weigh out the projectiles so i have some consistency.

    This was a test to make sure i could get it to stick, now to size, load and flick them down range to see how they perform.

  5. #10565
    Boolit Master Gremlin460's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazza View Post
    The first coat was done with a ratio of 120ml acetone to 20grams of hi-tek. I didn't use much for the first coat though, so that may have been my issue. I started with 1ml for a gloved hand full of projectiles, the second and third coats, i did 2ml of 100ml:20grams, so i think i just need to fiddle and weigh out the projectiles so i have some consistency.

    This was a test to make sure i could get it to stick, now to size, load and flick them down range to see how they perform.
    Tazza try one batch in a container with a lid, will give you a bit longer time wise to allow the coating to reach everywhere. Dont change anything else, just add a lid.. might cure your problem.
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  6. #10566
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    Ha, i never thought about that, very good idea.

    I want to make sort of a small concrete mixer so i can tumble them to coat and get good consistency, adding a lid may help keep it coat then take the lid off after some time for it to coat and allow it to start to dry out.

    Thanks for the tip!

  7. #10567
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    I use the Costco nut containers to coat, with the lid, perforated with a few small ventilation holes, screwed on at the beginning until I have shaken enough to get even coating, then off at the end to flash off the rest of the acetone. First part is to a mental count of fifty (maybe twelve seconds or so) and the second for a count of twenty (another five or six seconds). This is using 20 g in 120 ml, a bit less than a ml per pound, in moderate ambient temperature and relative humidity.

  8. #10568
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazza View Post
    Ha, i never thought about that, very good idea.

    I want to make sort of a small concrete mixer so i can tumble them to coat and get good consistency, adding a lid may help keep it coat then take the lid off after some time for it to coat and allow it to start to dry out.

    Thanks for the tip!


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pivGTOPi_CU
    Last edited by Ausglock; 09-10-2018 at 05:24 AM.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  9. #10569
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Petander - been following your alloy 'problem' for a while. Suggestion - try some sulfur or copper sulfate in your alloy to clean. Sulfur is smelly but cleans alloy of 'junk' very well - one of the ore cleaning methods of long ago. I found the CuSO4 to clean alloy (and reduce tin - you say your alloy is tin rich - and I've had trouble coating Sn/Pb & Zn/Pb boolits too). Both will give you harder alloy but I found the CuSO4 (Zep root killer over here) cleans the alloy so I hardly flux anymore. I use a Lee bottom dripper that doesn't drip much anymore but the top of the melt stays shiny through a complete pot full of pouring. I had a pot full and added a bunch of dross to it, what a mess. Added the CuSO4 and SHINY, stayed that way. I don't even clean the pot very often anymore. It makes really good boolits too. Bout all I shoot anymore is AR with cast - it's a blast.
    Whatever!

  10. #10570
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    Ausglock - That is the style of what i wanted to make, but my design idea was more complicated.... I like the simplicity of regular buckets to tumble in. I may have to re-think my idea and get my paws on another motor and gearbox.

  11. #10571
    Boolit Master OldBearHair's Avatar
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    Hey Ausglock Trevor, Hope someone doesn't ask "What color are you using ?" That is one fine looking rig you have there. Yeah I suppose you have several other colored buckets too.

  12. #10572
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    That is his signature colour, yet i'd assume he has something for his test batches that Joe sends him.

  13. #10573
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    this size bucket is available at Bunnings. and is a perfect fit in the waste paper basket.
    All the test samples get swirled by hand. I have 10 buckets so I can do a lot of different colours on one test day.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  14. #10574
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    Go to a chain restaurant, they get prepped foods in all kinds of nice buckets with lids, in all sizes, they throw them away. Make friends (pad hands, cook's or managers) and ask them to save them for you, quickly you'll have more then you can ever use! Luckily my wife is a manager of a few hotels and restaurants all owned by the same guy, I don't have to pad any hands, I tell her what I want, she tells them to save them for her and she brings them home all nicely cleaned, dry and sorted. I like the short fat ones, about 2 gallon size, the muffin dough comes in them for the Denny's Restaurant's, they have nice resealable lids, seal air tight, nice detachable carry handles and they stack nicely.
    Be careful what you wish for!

  15. #10575
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    Woohoo, an excuse to go to bunnings! The store for big kids.

  16. #10576
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    I use a lid to tumble for all three coats. Keeps me from spilling. One caution on using the lid to tumble. It can give you a coat that is too thick. Instead of listening for the change in sound while tumbling use a timed tumble. I use 30 seconds. Still use the thinner mix. It works best for this.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  17. #10577
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    Petander - been following your alloy 'problem' for a while. Suggestion - try some sulfur or copper sulfate in your alloy to clean. Sulfur is smelly but cleans alloy of 'junk' very well - one of the ore cleaning methods of long ago. I found the CuSO4 to clean alloy (and reduce tin - you say your alloy is tin rich - and I've had trouble coating Sn/Pb & Zn/Pb boolits too). Both will give you harder alloy but I found the CuSO4 (Zep root killer over here) cleans the alloy so I hardly flux anymore. I use a Lee bottom dripper that doesn't drip much anymore but the top of the melt stays shiny through a complete pot full of pouring. I had a pot full and added a bunch of dross to it, what a mess. Added the CuSO4 and SHINY, stayed that way. I don't even clean the pot very often anymore. It makes really good boolits too. Bout all I shoot anymore is AR with cast - it's a blast.
    Thanks,I may try copper sulphate one day.

    But I'm getting excellent results with gold,bronze and black cherry. Zombie Green doesn't like my alloy, I can't get it "ripe". But can live with that for now,just let it be.

    Dang busy trying to shoot that rough 458 Socom barrel smooth enough for cast. Chrome lined...

  18. #10578
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Bit off topic but years ago I ran across several articles of the Fin, Swede and Danes and their training loads for the resistance. seems like they used wood imitations for training and pipsqeak loads for practice as they couldn't let the invaders hear any shots. They had some really neat ideas making ammo & such.
    Whatever!

  19. #10579
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    The wooden blanks are still in use.

    A blank firing adaptor (a muzzle device) is being used, it makes the wooden bullets explode so they become harmless.

  20. #10580
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    i tried 3 layers yesterday for the first time on my new accurate mold 35-130M...and i like how it turned out. i like how it seals the boolit,and the added thiickness is welcome since my mold drops at 357 flush,so i can pass them trough my resizer at 357 to make the boolits perfectly round. the added 3rd layer run my boolits at .358 which is the perfect situation for me.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check