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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #8961
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    Too thick. What colour is it supposed to be??
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  2. #8962
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    From the pic it looks like the coating is too thick. Maybe add more acetone to thin it a little. Some of my first tries I added a little more powder because I thought the mixture was too thin. That was a mistake, but adding more acetone corrected my problem. A little bit goes a long way.

  3. #8963
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pd.dangelo3006 View Post


    Brand new to this stuff followed the directions closely they looked good and passed the wipe test but not the smash test. In the instructions it say if they flake it either baked to hot or to long or was put on to thin, I kinda figured the opposite coating being to thick could cause this flaking. Any advise would be most appreciated.
    Will echo previous welcome to cooking boolits. Looks like you are headed for something you will love shooting.

    When first starting out it is important to read the instructions and follow them. Keeping that first coat on the thin side, meaning you can still see the lead it's just stained a little, will give you better coating on next coat and following coats. Coating too thick will cause a failed smash test.

    But, can you smash another one with something white under it? A white paper towel would be good, something white and flat. Just place it between the bullet and what ever you are smashing it on. Then take a photo with the bullet still laying on the towel so we can see if the flaking is just small flakes. I'm seeing what I call dusting. Don't necessarily want to be the voice of dissent in this but I have shot bullets out of my guns that were just dusting a little when smashed with no leading. A smash test that really fails will come off in big flakes. Think scraping peeling paint from wood, type of flakes. Would post a photo of what I'm talking about. But can't do that right now on this site with this software update. I have posted photos of this previously and a really bad failed smash test. If you want them will email them.

    Or you could just not take the chance you can use them as is and melt them down and go again. That's the safe bet.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  4. #8964
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    Red copper and my oven is not a convection oven so that might be my problem. Also the instructions that I have say to do 3 or 4 thin coats but from what I'm reading two sounds more like the norm. I mixed the according to the instructions that I have but I will try it a little thinner. Thanks for the advice


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #8965
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    Where the hell did you get the "Instructions" From????

    None That I have ever seen, read or written has ever said 3 to 4 coats!!!!!!
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  6. #8966
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    Check this out for help with coating http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post4074376

    pd.dangelo3006 I am curious where you got the instructions you followed. I'm sure Joe (HI TEK) the manufacturer would like to know to prevent others from having the same problems you are having.

    With a convection oven, it's suggested that you stick with smaller batches.

    When (not if) everything comes together you will be surprised how easy the process really is.
    Last edited by Grmps; 07-21-2017 at 02:57 PM.

  7. #8967
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Little bit of information for you all.
    Did a bit of testing over the weekend.
    Was trying to sort out the issue of touch marks on bullets after baking.
    1st coat was 4mls to 2.5Kg.
    second coat 6mls to 2.5Kg.
    This resulted in a far shinier finish and no visible touch marks.
    time and temp remained the same as did the mix ratio.

    Touch marks are a sign of too much coating being used.
    Also trying to use bullet count rather than weight.
    100 to 135gn bullets, use 300 per tray and use 4mls 1st coat and 6mls 2nd coat.
    145 to 170gn bullets use 250 per tray with 6mls each coat.
    185 to 240gn bullets use 200 per tray with 6mls each coat.
    It can get confusing if you don't keep a track of it...
    2.5 kg = 5.51156 lb

    Trevor, did you do this in your coating machine? if so how many seconds did you run it after adding the ht coating?
    Last edited by Grmps; 07-21-2017 at 03:00 PM.

  8. #8968
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Where the hell did you get the "Instructions" From????

    None That I have ever seen, read or written has ever said 3 to 4 coats!!!!!!
    Come on man, guy is just starting out.
    He has probably been reading some of my post.


    dangelo;
    It does look like you have gotten some incorrect instructions. Recommend you read Joe's link In his previous post for correct start. He and Trevor are our on site experts for Hi Tek.
    You are correct that most of the guys on here are using two coats for pistolas.
    Because I always want to know if I can I'm about to try a one coat rifle bullet in my .308. This stuff is fairly forgiving. You cannot over bake it as you mentioned earlier. Over baking will change the color but not the performance as far as I can tell.

    Hey guys. About to load up some more of the Hi Tek .308 in the cases I have been working on to remove some of the inconsistencies. Hoping to get rid of that flyer that always takes my one inch five shot groups and makes two inch groups out of them. Wish me luck. Haven't got the one coat bullet ready yet.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  9. #8969
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    Avenger442 I'm sure your inspecting each bullet carefully for any flaws, try weighing each bullet and only keep the ones in a certain range to help prevent fliers
    Last edited by Grmps; 07-21-2017 at 03:01 PM.

  10. #8970
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    Took the plunge yesterday and coated my first boolits with some kryptonite green. Really like the color, and after reading all the info on here about best practices, it was a snap. Coated, sized and coated again. This batch is already loaded and shot, so I guess I need to cast up and coat some more


  11. #8971
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    Quote Originally Posted by asmith80 View Post
    Took the plunge yesterday and coated my first boolits with some kryptonite green. Really like the color, and after reading all the info on here about best practices, it was a snap. Coated, sized and coated again. This batch is already loaded and shot, so I guess I need to cast up and coat some more


    Well done. They look great. You got it first time.
    How did you find your barrel afterwards, and what did you use?

  12. #8972
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    What calibre and bullet?
    I'm looking for a nice 220gn FP for 40S&W.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  13. #8973
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grmps View Post
    Avenger442 I'm sure your inspecting each bullet carefully for any flaws, try weighing each bullet and only keep the ones in a certain range to help prevent fliers

    Already tried that. Have been weighing a segregating bullets for some time now. I'm thinking now that I need to look at the cases. So I have headed in that direction.

    Going to the range tomorrow. Report to follow. Hope I can keep the gun cool. It's running close to 100 F here with humidity making the "feel like" temps around 105.

    Trevor
    I've got a nice hollow point for a .308
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  14. #8974
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    Avenger, try pointing the rifle up between each shot to see if powder locations have any effect if it does then maybe you need poly filler.

    Nice job asmith80 shows what can be done when someone reads and follows the instructions

  15. #8975
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    Well done. They look great. You got it first time.
    How did you find your barrel afterwards, and what did you use?
    Thanks! I was using a CZ 75 SP01 and working up some loads with VV N320 and Clays. Barrel was clean as a whistle afterwards. I really like this mold, it's a 358-155 from NOE. I got it to have a heavy bullet to use in my 9mm for competition, but I may try it out in my .38 as well. Seems to be a really versatile boolit

  16. #8976
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    Quote Originally Posted by asmith80 View Post
    Took the plunge yesterday and coated my first boolits with some kryptonite green. Really like the color, and after reading all the info on here about best practices, it was a snap. Coated, sized and coated again. This batch is already loaded and shot, so I guess I need to cast up and coat some more

    Adam,
    Nice job. That bullet should shoot quite well in .38 also.

  17. #8977
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grmps View Post
    Avenger, try pointing the rifle up between each shot to see if powder locations have any effect if it does then maybe you need poly filler.
    No appreciable difference. The H4895 doesn't seem to have that problem. Or It may be that my ammo is stored on it's butt before using?

    Range Report:

    Shot 30 rounds of .308 coated with Bronze 500 in four, five and six shot groups.

    Was testing the effects of doing some modifications to the cases; primer pocket uniforming and flash hole deburring. Cases were trimmed to length, weighed, and segregated to within two grains. Also shot some cases with only the primer pocket uniformed, trimmed and segregated by weight. The last time I fired the deburred cases I wasn't impressed with the groups but this time one of the loads gave me an inch and a half group. Average speed was 2586 fps standard deviation 17.7. Looks like the one to use with the deburred flash hole.

    What was really interesting was a group I shot with a some cases that didn't have the deburring done. They did have the primer pocket uniformed and were segregated by weight. I got four shots in less than 1/2" at 100 yards the fifth shot made it a 1" group at 2600+ fps standard deviation was 10.9. This has been my usual 1 1/2" group load. Point, which has been made before, you can have all the accuracy you want with Hi Tek.

    Wish I could post some photos. Sent the one with the four in one hole by email to Donnie.
    Last edited by Avenger442; 07-23-2017 at 08:22 PM. Reason: correction
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  18. #8978
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    AVENGER TO POST PICTURES
    It took a few tries but I finally got it.
    create an IMGUR account https://imgur.com/
    simply drag and drop pictures
    select picture
    select "Linked BBCode (message boards)", copy and paste in the body of your post

  19. #8979
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grmps View Post
    AVENGER TO POST PICTURES
    It took a few tries but I finally got it.
    create an IMGUR account https://imgur.com/
    simply drag and drop pictures
    select picture
    select "Linked BBCode (message boards)", copy and paste in the body of your post
    If you wish to correct my understanding I welcome the comment but I'm not going to hijack this thread with a bunch of computer discussion. So if you want to reply to me on the below PM me. Thanks.

    Understand that I am not a computer Tech and what you do with you photos is up to you.

    Up until the last month or so I was able to post photos direct from my computer to this site. I had been advised by security programs on my computer that this site was not secure. But considered it a low risk for hacking and was posting photos. Recently Castboolits installed new software, probably to up grade their security. At about that time I ceased to be able to post directly from my computer. Understand I'm not complaining, this site certainly needs to protect its security. So you Administrators don't get stirred up. I'm just telling you what I understand of what has happened. I don't exactly know why. It may have been an administrative decision to stop allowing direct posting. I guess that if your posting from your computer that this site becomes the storage agent. It may have become just too much data to store on their server? Doesn't matter, result is the same.

    While posted photo code is accessible on this site and can be accessed by a hacker it is more likely that a cloud storage out on the web would be a better target for them, more accounts and information or code. I was advised by Techs at work several years ago not to create a storage out on the web. Their reason was that code embedded in the items you were storing off your computer could be used as a door into your systems. At the time they were more concerned about someone accessing their main frame than my computer. Because of this educated opinion I do not use web storage systems like I-Cloud. I have I Phones and I Pads but do not link them to this type of service. I don't know of any web services that help you post photos to a site that are not also storing the code for those photos on their site so I don't use them. So I guess you could say that it is me keeping me from being able to post photos.

    I do have a small complaint about this site though. I keep it pulled up sometimes in the tabs on my computer. While it will show me logged in at the top of the page I am actually logged out at times as far as being able to post a comment. When I try to post I get an error message with instructions which I have followed with no success. So I go to the top of the page actually log out log back in go back to the page I was on to post a comment. Just had to do that for this comment. May be something timing me out or another security feature but it is, never the less, inconvenient even though it might be safe. Like taking off your shoes at the airport.
    Last edited by Avenger442; 07-24-2017 at 03:16 PM. Reason: added info and correction
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  20. #8980
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    OK, new to casting, new to HiTek. What I've done so far works great, but a few questions to those in the know. Do I need a new oven (I think so)? Is a little wipe off from the Black Cherry OK?

    I used Rotometals hardball to eliminate alloy concerns. Finally I am getting the hang of using my slick side 147 grain molds from Accurate. I'm using the HiTek release. Two coats of Black Cherry, mixed with a weighed 20 grams to a measured 120 ml acetone (reading the thread [all of it, twice], I got the impression that 20 to 100 was the equivalent of 5-1-5 of the liquid, and wanted to match the 5-1-7 that Ausglock was using). The mix was left to stand to react. Had a couple reject bullets in the container for agitation. Used a long tube on a syringe to pull up the solution from the middle of the bottle, but didn't delay after shaking. 6 ml on 5# of casts, shaken in a closed container for about 20 seconds, another 5 or so with the lid off, dumped on mesh before the sound change but with the container not wet. Dried over night.

    The oven is a 15 dollar used convection toaster oven. Temp measured via K probe on a DVOM, preheated, and with the probe left in the oven during the bake. Bake times ran 12 to 22 minutes for each of the two coats.

    The reason for the prolonged bake times was that I kept getting wipe off. Not a lot, but a little, that only went away when the bake time hit 20 minutes. Despite having the probe verify the temp (200 to 205 C through out the bake), the bullets did not darken much at all - I got the nice cherry color that is shown in the photos in post 8595. All smash tests fine, and no leading through my Glock factory barrels.

    So I am very happy with the HiTek, but am wondering about the long bake times. I did note that the temps I got were with the probe right over the tray, but with the probe just under the mesh tray it was 20 degrees cooler. The fan seemed to work, but I don't know just how much the temp should vary vertically in a convection oven.

    I read that some of the powders were color saturated - could that explain the wipe off? I also read comments that maybe the powder components can separate. I didn't shake up the dry powder before measuring it out.

    New oven (Breville) on the way. Any comments/suggestions? TIA

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check