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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #10241
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    Yep, they pass the smash test.

    My brown hot spots have pretty much disappeared which I'm happy about. That picture looks a bit brighter than in real life but I am pretty happy with it now.

    Is there a 3rd green colour? A mate was shooting a green colour darker than mine tonight, he got the boolits from another guy who has started making his own. They looked pretty good.

  2. #10242
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    Greens

    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    Yep, they pass the smash test.

    My brown hot spots have pretty much disappeared which I'm happy about. That picture looks a bit brighter than in real life but I am pretty happy with it now.

    Is there a 3rd green colour? A mate was shooting a green colour darker than mine tonight, he got the boolits from another guy who has started making his own. They looked pretty good.
    Yes there is a Dark Green Metallic.
    It is a very popular colour as well. Attached is a pictureClick image for larger version. 

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  3. #10243
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    That's the one. Might try that next when I get bored of ZG.

  4. #10244
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    Tried coating some copper jacket projectiles today.

    I threw them in last minute so ended up doing 2 coats on those and 3 on the lead.

    Worked out pretty good.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #10245
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    Again with a close up.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am not sure what benefits this might have apart from being used at clubs or matches that have banned plated projies.

  6. #10246
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    From previous statements on this thread, mainly from Joe, the coating of jacketed has been done to prevent some of the copper fouling in the barrel therefore extending length of time between cleanings and may add some speed due to lubrication using the same load. I understand that some competition guys have used it on rifle bullets to help improve scores and the length of time that a barrel will last. The help being something like molly coated bullets. Guys that shoot a lot of bullets in a year, 1000s, have to replace barrels fairly regular due to erosion. I've always understood that most of this erosion was due to extreme heat at the beginning of the lands. Especially with competition loads in rifles and distances out to 1000 yards where you are pushing the limit on max loading. So I'm not sure about extended barrel life being a particular advantage of Hi Tek, molly or any other coating. Maybe a reduction in the amount of heat due to reduced load producing the same speed? I can see how a lube could give you some more speed out of the same load. I have not personally tested any of this. So all is an assumption based on reading what others have written.

    And there is always the purdy colors. I guess it could be done to color code rounds for some reason.

    Maybe there is a test brewing here for someone to engage in? We tried the speed test between PC and Hi Tek and didn't find much difference. What about jacketed and jacketed with HI Tek coating max power? Anyone game?
    Last edited by Avenger442; 07-12-2018 at 02:53 PM.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  7. #10247
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    Again with a close up.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am not sure what benefits this might have apart from being used at clubs or matches that have banned plated prodgies.

    dansedgli
    These tests were done many years ago in Aus.
    The aim was to stop Copper fouling of barrels. As you know, Copper residues in Barrel require removal of this contaminant, and cleaners in effect erode away the bore by electrolytic corrosion.
    Main thing of benefit, when using coated Jacketed or Electroplated cast is, no more Copper fouling, clean barrels, no more corrosive cleaners required, possibly resulting in less barrel wear and possible increase in accuracy. I don't know about speed changes, as that test was not done.

    The coatings, will not reduce possibility of Copper pieces being a problem with bounce back towards shooter in indoor ranges.

  8. #10248
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    I coated some Tigershark Plated 123gn HP and ran them through the TurBor.
    Shot fine with no issues.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  9. #10249
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    *gasp* using the oppositions projectiles? shame shame

    I know a guy that used some tigershark projectiles, they didn't have many good things to say about them, hopefully it was just a bad batch.

  10. #10250
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    Yeah. I got a 1000 to test against my 125gn SWC... for open Major in the 38 Supercomp.

    The extra $$$ per 1000 was not worth the effort.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  11. #10251
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    Last night in my new trubor I shot my 122 flat points off hand at 20m and got better groups than the tigersharks off a rest.

    My other gun shoots the TS's better and my shadow 2 loves them too. If I can get similar accuracy out of my 122's for those guns I'll be one happy boy.

  12. #10252
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    Hi All,

    Is it safe to return coated reject bullets back to the melting pot?

  13. #10253
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    I wouldn't recommend returning them to the casting pot, but there is no problem re-smelting them

  14. #10254
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    In a pot means you get crud in there but can scoop it off. In a smelting pot is far easier to clean up.

    Trevor - i totally agree, they look nice but not worth the extra money.

  15. #10255
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    Quote Originally Posted by CamoWhamo View Post
    Hi All,

    Is it safe to return coated reject bullets back to the melting pot?
    Yes it is, no problems at all with that.
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  16. #10256
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    all i know is i pitch hi tek'ed culls in the pot all the time without problems...the color-product float on top of the melt. business as usual.

  17. #10257
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    What is you favorite container to coat boolits in? I’ve been using a square plastic container thinking the square sides allow the boolits to really get agitated well. Now I am questioning that theory thinking perhaps that it’s too much agitation which might be causing a slightly rougher surface texture of paint. I’ve not used a smooth sided bowl, like a Coolwhip container.

    2nd question, are you dumping wet coated boolits onto a baking screen before the sound changes and the coating is almost dry?

  18. #10258
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    Quote Originally Posted by igolfat8 View Post
    What is you favorite container to coat boolits in? I’ve been using a square plastic container thinking the square sides allow the boolits to really get agitated well. Now I am questioning that theory thinking perhaps that it’s too much agitation which might be causing a slightly rougher surface texture of paint. I’ve not used a smooth sided bowl, like a Coolwhip container.

    2nd question, are you dumping wet coated boolits onto a baking screen before the sound changes and the coating is almost dry?
    i'm using a 5 gallon bucket with 8 pounds of boolits ,and swirl only for 7 to 10 seconds ; i stop well before the sound becomes muffled. the trick is to swirl till you feel all the boolits got some product on them .then dump em on the screen tray ; YOU MUST dump them still wet. if the acetone has flashed in whole,then you know the finish will be rough,and if ever you went too far, that's when the product won't bond correctly.

    like some said earlier in this thread,and as i learned myself,you shouldn't overthink the process. you're better served with a higher acetone ratio,and it's better to swirl the boolits and product just enough so most boolits got in contact with the juice.

    the other factor is, you don't want to proceed to the baking part if the boolits are still sticky.they must be drydrydry.use a fan for 10 to 15 minutes,and you should be good to go.i'm putting the tray with the fan over'em,and then i put the tray on top of the oven a little to make sure the product is dry.

    then the baking process is the easy part.

  19. #10259
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockfan View Post
    i'm using a 5 gallon bucket with 8 pounds of boolits ,and swirl only for 7 to 10 seconds ; i stop well before the sound becomes muffled. the trick is to swirl till you feel all the boolits got some product on them .then dump em on the screen tray ; YOU MUST dump them still wet. if the acetone has flashed in whole,then you know the finish will be rough,and if ever you went too far, that's when the product won't bond correctly.

    like some said earlier in this thread,and as i learned myself,you shouldn't overthink the process. you're better served with a higher acetone ratio,and it's better to swirl the boolits and product just enough so most boolits got in contact with the juice.

    the other factor is, you don't want to proceed to the baking part if the boolits are still sticky.they must be drydrydry.use a fan for 10 to 15 minutes,and you should be good to go.i'm putting the tray with the fan over'em,and then i put the tray on top of the oven a little to make sure the product is dry.

    then the baking process is the easy part.
    +1 on what glockfan said. Regards Stephen

  20. #10260
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    coating advice

    Quote Originally Posted by glockfan View Post
    i'm using a 5 gallon bucket with 8 pounds of boolits ,and swirl only for 7 to 10 seconds ; i stop well before the sound becomes muffled. the trick is to swirl till you feel all the boolits got some product on them .then dump em on the screen tray ; YOU MUST dump them still wet. if the acetone has flashed in whole,then you know the finish will be rough,and if ever you went too far, that's when the product won't bond correctly.

    like some said earlier in this thread,and as i learned myself,you shouldn't overthink the process. you're better served with a higher acetone ratio,and it's better to swirl the boolits and product just enough so most boolits got in contact with the juice.

    the other factor is, you don't want to proceed to the baking part if the boolits are still sticky.they must be drydrydry.use a fan for 10 to 15 minutes,and you should be good to go.i'm putting the tray with the fan over'em,and then i put the tray on top of the oven a little to make sure the product is dry.

    then the baking process is the easy part.
    glockfan
    Very well said, I could not do it better.
    It is easy, don't over think things. If simple things are done, there is no problems.
    Coating quickly is best. Don't tumble coat until it becomes sticky. If after coating and dumping you have extra coating in your bucket, you used too much mixture. Simply use less next time.
    Dry coating well before baking, especially first coat . That is it. Once you get right results, then simply continue.

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