simple Hi-Tek coating

[Rodvan]

Okay guys here is my latest attempt. I read the directions again for the fifth time. I measured 3ml of coating to three pounds of bullets and shook in an open container until the sound changed and placed on tray to dry. Well, they were basically dry when the sound changed. I brought them inside to finish drying for about 30-45 minutes. The photos show one coat cooked for 15 minutes between 350°-400°. Both batches passed the wipe and smash test but failed the scrape test.
Click the link below to see two videos showing how easy the coating comes off.

http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ir...library/Hi-Tek

[redrockant]

Coating looks fine Can still see lead in lube grooves So not too thick.. Did you leave them over night to dry? They aren't dry immediately after tumbling
I scratch test the projies l have Smashed flat on both the flat and round edges.

[Rodvan]

I let them dry 30-45 minutes. They felt dry, but I'm going to try another batch and let the set overnight.

[Ausglock]

Video does not load. Says it has been deleted by owner.

What alloy you using?
Smash means smash.. not squeeze in a vise.
put the bullet on a lump of steel and smash the schit out of it with a bloody big hammer.
I posted vids a few pages back of how I smash...
http://vid193.photobucket.com/albums...-28-54_197.mp4

[Moonman]

Rodvan,

Dry to TOUCH is not necessarily dry, it's moisture under the coating that needs to be dry.

[HI-TEK]

Okay guys here is my latest attempt. I read the directions again for the fifth time. I measured 3ml of coating to three pounds of bullets and shook in an open container until the sound changed and placed on tray to dry. Well, they were basically dry when the sound changed. I brought them inside to finish drying for about 30-45 minutes. The photos show one coat cooked for 15 minutes between 350°-400°. Both batches passed the wipe and smash test but failed the scrape test.
Click the link below to see two videos showing how easy the coating comes off.

http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ir...library/Hi-Tek

Hi,
When coating, you must not continue coating/tumbling until coating is dry in the bucket/mixer you are using.
If it is cold where you are coating, the simple fact that Acetone absorbs water quickly, and also chills bullets during drying, and this will cause moisture entrapment inside coating. The fact that coating feels dry to the touch is not an accurate indicator to bake. Skin formation on coating during drying, feels dry to the touch. Underneath dry skin, there may be moisture trapped, that cannot get out.
The instant you put these into an oven, the trapped "moisture" instantly turns into super heated steam, which is trapped between coating and colder alloy. Heat will set coating, but there is no bonding.
I suggest that you only try to bake a few at a time, at various intervals, after drying, to determine when product actually becomes suitable to bake and will stick to alloy..
I have previously advised users, when they are in cold conditions, that warming alloy to about 25-30C first, and then quickly coating and dumping onto drying racks, will help drying greatly as residual warmth contained in alloy helps with drying and reduction of moisture pick up.
Please advise when you have repeated this method as suggested.
Scratching off coating when you have product that smashes OK is a total contradiction.
If product passes smash test, coating should not be removed with fingernail scratching.
Why did you bake for 15 minutes?
What is your true oven temperature?

[Rodvan]

Ausglock, try these links.
Hi-tek, I want this to work more than you. I know there isn't anything wrong with your product, I just can't get it to work,yet. When I do the smash test I don't have any coating flake off,ever, but I can scrape it off. Sounds odd but that's the way it is.

http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ir...6u9by.mp4.html

http://vid1383.photobucket.com/album...psquhltqaa.mp4

[HI-TEK]

Ausglock, try these links.
Hi-tek, I want this to work more than you. I know there isn't anything wrong with your product, I just can't get it to work,yet. When I do the smash test I don't have any coating flake off,ever, but I can scrape it off. Sounds odd but that's the way it is.

http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ir...6u9by.mp4.html

http://vid1383.photobucket.com/album...psquhltqaa.mp4

I viewed your video MP4 is only one that plays.
What did you use to scratch coating, it was not your finger nails.
Also, please have a look at smash test. Not squeezed in a vice but "smashed" like in video by Ausglock.
If you would have done smash test as per Ausglocks video, coating would have come off and would have confirmed "no adhesion"

[Rodvan]

I viewed your video MP4 is only one that plays.
What did you use to scratch coating, it was not your finger nails.
Also, please have a look at smash test. Not squeezed in a vice but "smashed" like in video by Ausglock.
If you would have done smash test as per Ausglocks video, coating would have come off and would have confirmed "no adhesion"

The coating was scraped with a very flexible piece of plastic. All of the smash tests are with a hammer pounding the bullet, not squeezed in a vice and the coating does not come off.

[HI-TEK]

The coating was scraped with a very flexible piece of plastic. All of the smash tests are with a hammer pounding the bullet, not squeezed in a vice and the coating does not come off.

OK.
Can you please have a very close look at surface of alloy when coating is scratched off?
Magnify if possible to examine metal surface.
What does surface look like? If possible, can you examine flakes of coating where it was in contact with alloy?
What did it look like?
After successful smash test, how long was it before you tested with your scratch test?
What alloy did you use?

[Ausglock]

A piece of plastic is not a fingernail.
Schit!!!. I can scrape it off too with something like that!
Even unloading a full mag can have coating scraped off by the front metal of the 1911 mag.
It is removing alloy and coating. not coating on it's own.

[Rodvan]

A piece of plastic is not a fingernail.
Schit!!!. I can scrape it off too with something like that!
Even unloading a full mag can have coating scraped off by the front metal of the 1911 mag.
It is removing alloy and coating. not coating on it's own.

I thought you said earlier that you couldn't scrape the coating off, and I asked in my first post if my lead was too soft

[Frankd]

You can easily scratch that coating off with a brass key.

That bullet coating has micro abrasives. Has anyone bothered to do a chemical analysis of it ? Some people already have. It is a heat set/cure polymer powder coating mixed and sold in liquid form and contains aluminum oxides or high quality abrasives. Unless you want to intentionally fire-lap your barrel, I wouldn't use that coating as a bullet "lube" . I'm sure the seller of it will deny this fact.

Professional powder coaters who know their business well and the secrets of the powders they use, will purposely mix certain solvents with their powders to liquify them to almost exactly like paint. That liquid paint is then used to touch-up defects in their powder coating jobs after the baking process.

That supplier is doing exactly that and premixing the powder with a solvent and then selling it with a catalyst to accelerate the drying time before baking.

[Ausglock]

I thought you said earlier that you couldn't scrape the coating off, and I asked in my first post if my lead was too soft

Not with a fingernail, you can't.
And you can't scrape the coating off the alloy, because it is bonded to the alloy when baked correctly.
You can scrape the coating and alloy off.
Sorry for the confusion.Not with a fingernail, you can't.
And you can't scrape the coating off the alloy, because it is bonded to the alloy when baked correctly.
You can scrape the coating and alloy off.
Sorry for the confusion.
I have coated and fired alloy from 10BHN up to 20 BHN with no issues with retained coating.
from 500fps up to 1800fps. in pistol calibres. I don't do rifle.

[Ausglock]

You can easily scratch that coating off with a brass key.

That bullet coating has micro abrasives. Has anyone bothered to do a chemical analysis of it ? Some people already have. It is a heat set/cure polymer powder coating mixed and sold in liquid form and contains aluminum oxides or high quality abrasives. Unless you want to intentionally fire-lap your barrel, I wouldn't use that coating as a bullet "lube" . I'm sure the seller of it will deny this fact.

Professional powder coaters who know their business well and the secrets of the powders they use, will purposely mix certain solvents with their powders to liquify them to almost exactly like paint. That liquid paint is then used to touch-up defects in their powder coating jobs after the baking process.

That supplier is doing exactly that and premixing the powder with a solvent and then selling it with a catalyst to accelerate the drying time before baking.

Ummm... I think you are barking up the wrong tree.
This is NOT powdercoating.
It will not wear away your barrel.

[Frankd]

Ummm... I think you are barking up the wrong tree.
This is NOT powdercoating.
It will not wear away your barrel.

---------
Ummm… Ignorance is bliss

And YES-IT-IS powder coating.

[HI-TEK]

---------
Ummm… Ignorance is bliss

And YES-IT-IS powder coating.

Thanks for your informative blogs, most humorous reading.

Unfortunately, information you had received and posted, is incorrect.
You have just joined this blog site, and without any useful contribution to this site, you immediately are trying to damage the reputation of the Hi-Tek coating product.
Just wondering, what is the reason/purpose of your blog?
Further, where, or from whom, you obtained the alleged results, from which you formed your educated conclusions?
Further, can you provide any evidence/test results, to support your alleged statements?
Even further, I am sure that all who read and contribute to this site, would like to know, why you joined this site, it seems, for no other purpose than to try to discredit the coating.

[Gremlin460]

Grem. Give me a Cooee.
Have you tried the powder DRYTEK?
What Blue do you have?
Wanna swap? blue for some powder?

Don't tell Joe....

Sorry Trev the Blue is now deceased.. all I have left is the Red 254 and the red 122l, both the cats in these have turned dark, in fact the Glitter yellow cat has don't the same.
I have never opened the 122L and had issues with the 254, BUT it was my noob start on colour, so the failures could easily have been my fault, actually more than likely my fault.
No I haven't tried powder yet, due to the fact this damn liquid stuff goes so far!!!
I am up for any colour next, either purple or lime green

[Gremlin460]

Just for the new guys who are having difficulty putting wise words into mental pictures.. This is how *I* coat with Hi-Tec, now like everyone else there is differences in methology so beware of the fact every one does it slightly different.

I load for a beretta 92fs, S&W pro series 1911, a SA loaded 1911 and a xdm and a grock 19 , none of these lead the barrel with this method I use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3saWDLobPAo

Mike.

[HI-TEK]

Just for the new guys who are having difficulty putting wise words into mental pictures.. This is how *I* coat with Hi-Tec, now like everyone else there is differences in methology so beware of the fact every one does it slightly different.

I load for a beretta 92fs, S&W pro series 1911, a SA loaded 1911 and a xdm and a grock 19 , none of these lead the barrel with this method I use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3saWDLobPAo

Mike.

Hi Mike,
Liked your video. You coated quite a lot very quickly.
Well done.