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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #10721
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    shanep -- I think you need to re-start at the beginning

    burnt is from over baking, grainy is from tumbling to long.

    Have a couple boolits in the bottle you mix the solution in
    after you mix the solution, let it rest/incorporate for at least 30 min
    rule of thumb, use 1 mil solution to 1 pound of boolits, less in the first time around, - this helps with adhesion (make sure you adjitate the solution well immediately prior to measureing and adding to the boolits (the solution settles fast)


    1) confirm oven temperature: Place a tested oven thermometer in the middle of the shelf you bake on and adjust the oven until the thermometer reads 400°
    2) they look grainy to me, -- you are tumbling too long -- Shake/swirl 15 – 20 seconds MAX if the sound changes, you've gone to long. it/s OK to dump them damp
    3) make sure they are COMPLETELY dry before baking dry in front of a fan (it helps to warm them on a grate on top of your oven for 12 min before baking)



    4) bake for a full 12 min (cover the bottom of your oven with something that retains heat I use ceramic BBQ briquettes, some use firebrick or chunks of metal -- this helps the oven get back to temperature faster.
    Last edited by Grmps; 10-08-2018 at 02:51 PM.

  2. #10722
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    Shanep, do they pass the smash test?

  3. #10723
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    Quote Originally Posted by dikman View Post
    Shanep, do they pass the smash test?
    At first no, but I bake them longer and that fixed that. I'm probably going to start completely over, remix everything.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

  4. #10724
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    I think that's a good idea. Remember, thin coats! My last failure (some time ago) was due to making the coats too thick. They looked good but flaked badly when flattened, I had to remelt the lot.

    I hadn't coated any for quite a while as I have several thousand coated projectiles stored, but the other day I just felt like doing some casting. I figured I might as well coat them too, so the next day away I went. Two coats of Texas Tea, one batch I did three coats just to see what they looked like but two coats is perfectly functional. Because I experimented with very thin coats they came out slightly splotchy looking but passed the smash test (most important). Another 1120 to add to the collection.

  5. #10725
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    Quote Originally Posted by pkchwy View Post
    I currently use a Magma Star Lube-sizer to do my lubbing and now that i have just used the high tec coating on a heap of projectiles. i wanted to now if i can use my Magma Star Lube-sizer with out lube to side the projectiles or do i need to buy other equipmnt
    I use my Star Lubri-Sizer to size my coated bullets. Works great. Mine hasn’t seen lube in years.

  6. #10726
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    My reloading shop has an old RCBS sizer for $30 that is all greased up but in complete condition. I'm going to pick it up just to size coated bullets.

  7. #10727
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    The lube holes in the Lyman & RCBS lube sizer's tend to cut the coating on cast bullets. Maybe some one can add more info on this, I size all my coated bullets on a Star sizer with the lube arm removed.

  8. #10728
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    Quote Originally Posted by ioon44 View Post
    The lube holes in the Lyman & RCBS lube sizer's tend to cut the coating on cast bullets. Maybe some one can add more info on this, I size all my coated bullets on a Star sizer with the lube arm removed.
    I’ve come across this issue with another brand of sizing die, the lube holes were removing thin lines of coating. I used a small cotton wad with some metal / chrome polish, same stuff you use to shine mag wheels. Used a drill and polished the die similar to honing out a bore but only polishing. Also ran drill in reverse. Didn’t need much at all just enough to remove any burrs or sharp edges. The finish on the projectiles was so much better and no more scratches

  9. #10729
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    <--- Walks in, looks around, smiles, walks back out.
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  10. #10730
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    The best sizing dies available anywhere in the world are made by Lathesmith, A member here on this forum. The short dies are what I use in the magma Sizemaster.
    Also used by commercial manufacturers.
    Contact him for pricing.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  11. #10731
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    The results of our seminar.
    As one member put it. Hi Tek stole the stage on this event

    https://www.northeastshooters.com/xe...thread.358267/

  12. #10732
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    [QUOTE=Michael J. Spangler;4478213]The results of our seminar.
    As one member put it. Hi Tek stole the stage on this event


    Well done Michael,
    May be you should do more such seminars, that will also empower hobbyists with being confident with casting their own.
    Hi-Tek
    Last edited by HI-TEK; 10-15-2018 at 05:54 AM.

  13. #10733
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    [QUOTE=HI-TEK;4478218]
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael J. Spangler View Post
    The results of our seminar.
    As one member put it. Hi Tek stole the stage on this event


    Well done Michael,
    May be you should do more such seminars, that will also empower hobbyists with being confident with casting their own.
    H-Tek
    Thanks Joe

    Thats the whole reason for this. Some guys just don't have the confidence. Casting like reloading can be pretty intimidating when you read about it. We all know it's not rocket surgery.
    As we went through the day and guys worked their way to the furnaces to cast, I would watch over their shoulders and once they poured their first mould full I would say "there you go, now you're officially a bullet caster" It's that simple.
    The best part is guys walking away with confidence and with bullets ready to shoot. Everyone walked away with samples of bullet lube from white label lubes and a 100 ML container of mixed up hi-tek 1035 gold to start coating on their own.
    I think we have a bunch of converts today.

    Thank you again Joe for the support and the great product. It really instils confidence in new casters to make the jump knowing they won't have issues with leading

  14. #10734
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    At first i was unsure with how it would work for me too, as i already had my process that worked for me. After this thread and a few chats with Joe, i was all set to give it a go.

    I started off with a coating i got off an industrial coating joint. I was unsure how THAT would work as first, i finally got the courage to give it a go then got my application sorted out and never looked back, well, until i needed to buy more at an outrageous cost.

    Changing to a different method has taken some doing, but it works and works well, i just need to up the scale as putting them in a plastic bottle and shaking the poop out of it does wear my arms out a bit with doing large batches, there is no real consistency with me doing it this way vs others that tumble them to coat, easy and repeatable results.

    So far the results are really good, i haven't been able to test it in an open gun yet, as after 3 years, i still don't have a replacement barrel for it to give it a really good test with my allow mixture to see how it holds up to the extra speed.

    I am and have always been a huge supporter of coated lead.

  15. #10735
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    Another use

    Hey Joe (Mr HiTek) How about this ? Another use for Hi tek coating. This knife is hand forged from 5160 steel which will rust very easily. This Hi-Tek coating has stopped the rusting issue. Only time and actual usage will tell. Did it with my heat gun.
    As you can tell it is Old Gold.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180908_170239.jpg  

  16. #10736
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazza View Post
    i haven't been able to test it in an open gun yet, as after 3 years, i still don't have a replacement barrel for it to give it a really good test with my allow mixture to see how it holds up to the extra speed.
    Tazza. What sort of barrel you after? Trubor?
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  17. #10737
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    It's a victor precision gun, he used a sheumann hybricomp. He can't get them anymore, but easily bought in the usa, the dood that makes them has no export license.

    I got tied up in the aussie copper projectile thingo. I paid him to get me one.... 2 years ago

  18. #10738
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldBearHair View Post
    Hey Joe (Mr HiTek) How about this ? Another use for Hi tek coating. This knife is hand forged from 5160 steel which will rust very easily. This Hi-Tek coating has stopped the rusting issue. Only time and actual usage will tell. Did it with my heat gun.
    As you can tell it is Old Gold.


    Hello OldBearHair,
    That is a good test also. You would have had to heat the blade and coating very hot to set coating.
    Before I was making coatings for cast, I was making a coating that would be used by industry. Some of these, required to have quite extensive and some nasty anti-corrosive additives, that guaranteed salt spray test results against corrosion.
    It is a cut throat market where competitors constantly tried to out do each other for limited sales.
    I did make some heat bonded coatings, that were used by mines for underground work, where all assembly components not only were protected against rusting, but coatings had to be electrically conductive to eliminate static build up that could cause a spark and a possible explosion.
    Again, this was a very competitive area, and all products had to meet/ & pass many tests, which cost a bomb, and for very low returns.
    Essentially, if you coat steel, and with coatings that prevent Water and Oxygen contact to Steel, it should certainly reduce rusting.
    None of the Hi-Tek coatings now contain these anti corrosive agents. They are simply not needed.

  19. #10739
    Boolit Master OldBearHair's Avatar
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    "Hello OldBearHair,
    That is a good test also. You would have had to heat the blade and coating very hot to set coating." Thanks for the information.... ... While heating the knife it got up to 400 to 450 degrees F. which is about where it was tempered at. So now the knife has been tempered the third time. The coating looks a tad bit over baked and has interesting patterns that do not show in the picture. Conjured up in my mind how the process could be done by taping a pattern for the old Gold coating and do it again covering the old Gold with tape and using Zombie Green, and then it would be camoflage. Like opening up another "can of worms". LOL

  20. #10740
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    You could "paint" a pattern on it with hi-temp grease or? so the hitek wouldn't stick there.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check