Thanks Tazza,
More time to packing, you cannot imagine the workload... as a result of my absence for two months or more.
Aside from taking a few pills morning and night, all the doctors/specialists and I continue to be baffled why I went through this.
I have had no reoccurrence with this for about two months
None is quite certain what caused my situation of incontrollable pain, severe lower bowel inflammation, and all symptoms gone the next day.
This situation reoccurring about 7-10 day intervals, requiring hospitalization to control the pain.
No infections were found despite many many blood tests, and many different cultures performed.
All internal examinations came up clear.
Most recent special genetic tests also came up negative.
Missus recons I am weird.... may be she is right.......
hehe my wife says i'm a weirdo all the time too, that and a butt head.
Her mum had colitis, but the doctors did confirm that it was the cause of her intestinal pain and associated "runs". Diet and a CPAP machine actually fixed her issues.
I had kidney stones a few months back, i never knew pain could be that bad, i feed bad for what people that get debilitating pain that they just can't get fixed and have to live on drugs to lower the pain, but it never actually fully goes away.
Wonderful to hear your back. I have had in the past irritable bowel colitis and can sympathize with the pain thing.
I got the info from Allen. Thanks to the both of you.
I think that wife thing and thinking we are weird is a standard condition. Frankly I consider my wife a little weird in some ways.
Coated 9 pounds of 9mm this week. Need to get back into the special project bullet with the .308 soon. Coating with the Bronze 500. But not really trying to keep the color right. So they are a little dark but look great to me.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
hey guys now that it's winter my normal way of drying the bullets is taking forever. so while thinking of ways to hurry it along i wondered if i could dry them by putting the on top of the oven like when i preheat them before cooking. will this work or will i dry them to fast and cause problems.
That is a fairly good way of doing it. If you are doing several trays it can be like a production line, of coating, warm air drying and then baking.
If you are doing a small batch, it can be useful to pre-warm cast to about 30-35C before coating. The evaporating Acetone wont chill the alloy as much, and the warmth contained in alloy should dry things fairly quickly. Afterwards a bit of extra drying on top of oven should finish the drying.
The trick is don't rush with things, longer warm air drying wont hurt at all and you should get great bonding.
Don't try and coat them too hot either, i had the idea of coating ones that were still a bit too hot from the oven and the sealed bottle i used to coat, puffed up when shaking. Not dangerous, just messy if it did pop from the acetone vapors. I thought i was smart, the hotter they go in, the faster they will dry, i guess that is true, but in this case it was not useful.
I think that the key word is "WARM" . I suggest pre warming alloy about 30-35C and that is more than adequate to have enough warmth contained in the alloy to increase drying rate.
As you found out, if you try to coat HOT alloy, Acetone will boil and create a lot of fumes quickly, it makes a mess on the coted surface, and bad results.
Warm is the key, hot was not a wise move on my part. But hey, i tested it for science! and failed miserably...
I generally coat 15-20k at a time, so i take the trays out of the oven and dump on a bench to cool, as i don't have enough trays to let them cool in them. When cool enough, scooped up and coated and left to dry. Brisbane weather generally allows for drying year round fairly fast. If it's raining, i don't do anything just in case moisture gets in.
i work out of my basement where it's cool and dry during the summer and down right chilly in the winter i cook them in my unheated garage. i tend to work at them in big batch's after i coat them. i put a box fan to blow on them over nite, so i've been going on the ideal that they were dry before i heated up before cooking them. but that means it takes 2 or more days to cooking them. so i was wondering if i warmed them before the were dried all the way would it cause some unseen problems or would warming for 12 to 15 minutes finish the drying so i could get a little assembly line going and get more done in one day.
For those that acid wash contaminated alloy how long do you leave it in the acid, and how do you wash them after? I know I read it I just cant find it. Lol
Don't damn me
When I speak a piece of my mind
'Cause silence isn't golden
When I'm holding it inside.
G'n'R
This may help you. I've been coating in my basement for the last couple of weeks. I use a couple of fans to vent fumes out the door (wife doesn't like the smell). At times it might get down to 39F in the basement with the door open and the two fans blowing out while baking. I can close tumble the bullets dump them wet wait a couple of minutes for them to flash off most of the acetone put them on top of the oven for about 15 min and then bake. This has worked lately. Smash test is excellent. I do use a little thinner mix than instructions because I'm not careful measuring the acetone.
At times I have dried over night, no heat, just to make sure the first coat is dry. I rarely coat more than 10 pounds of bullets. So assembly line doesn't help me a lot. But if in a hurry I use the above. In the last week I've only coated about 18 pounds of bullets.
This is Bronze 500 done with drying on the oven top.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
I do the same. I'll do 15-20 lbs at a time, so 3-4 trays. I'll rotate them through, so the first tray I tumble sits for 5-7 minutes in open air before I put it on top of the oven to warm. It sits on top of the oven for ~8-9 minutes, either while the oven is preheating or the previous set is baking, and then it goes in the oven.
I put my hand on them to check that they're warm for a few minutes before I put them in the oven. Remember, warm to the touch means 100-120F (130F seems to be about where they start to feel "hot" instead of warm), which seems to be enough to let the coating set.
When they come out they sit for ~8-9 minutes while I'm prepping other trays, which is cool enough to recoat. Rinse and repeat.
Pass the smash and acetone test with flying colors.
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
^^^
I do much the same, though I tend to run many batches over long sessions. To avoid getting lost I often put on the first coating on a lot of boolits, drying over night. I separate them into 5 1/2# batches in stackable containers and then run them in sets of four: preheat, bake, cool, recoat, rebuke, cool and set aside, feeding in new batches as the prior sets complete the second bake.
Ausglock posted a similar method, but he is younger and has a better memory than me. At one time he was casting out of three rotating molds, making a huge pile of boolits and then coating them twic, all in the same day.
Last edited by kevin c; 01-23-2021 at 01:49 AM.
Blasted auto correct. One of the few things in the world I can say I truly hate...
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |