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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #10761
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    I'm looking to reduce the time taken to make bullets, not increase it.
    hehe, i wish the same, yet the only way around it that i can work out is to get someone else to do it.....

    I spent Sunday casting 125rn and coating/cooking previous batches. The Red looks awesome, the K15 black went on really well too. Dries so much faster that the previous stuff i used, gives me a work out as i shake the container to coat projectiles.

    I think it was last week i stuffed up, i cooked about 16,000 projectiles, on the last tray i noticed that i had the temperature at 150c and not 200..... I had to cook the lot again for the polymer to create its chainy goodness that would not wipe off with acetone Lesson learned! I make sure to check the temperature every time.

  2. #10762
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    16,000!

    Do you sell bullets commercially?

  3. #10763
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    Congrats, Dan. Great win in Tassie.
    Just to carify...... My 100% was only the first day's result for the Newcastle match. My squad shot all the high point stages on Saturday. The god Squad shot them Sunday.

    My final was 3rd Open Div. B Grade and 13th overall in Open.

    A large percentage of competitors were using Susan Island Bullets Green Goodness with the Kryptonite Green.
    I called in to see HITEK Joe today on my way home, just to show how clean the Barrel and Compensator of my STI TruBor was after 300 odd rounds at Major power factor.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  4. #10764
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    16,000!

    Do you sell bullets commercially?
    I sell a few projectiles to people at my local range, I'm not commercial, i couldn't keep up. I can do about 6 to 7k per day wirh my auto master caster. I only get one day per weekend to 'play'.

  5. #10765
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    Do you have many problems with it not dropping projectiles? Thats my only concern.

    Sometimes it takes several taps to clear the molds.

  6. #10766
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    Dan. Try and find a Ballisticast mark X or the NVB copy.
    We have 2 of the Mark X manual machines with 4 molds in each machine. They can easily do 2000 per hour with no problem. We now use these for small orders, while the Ballisti autocaster is cranking out the high volume pills.

    The Mark X schitz all over the Master caster for speed and ease of use.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  7. #10767
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    Do you have many problems with it not dropping projectiles? Thats my only concern.

    Sometimes it takes several taps to clear the molds.
    Sadly, some times yes. I soot the moulds with an acetylene flame wh ern it starts to stick.

    The main issue i have is lead build up under the sprue cutter. I can oil it and it does a few hundred but starts over. I can't just leave it alone

    I'd love a bullet mark x but can't justify it for what i do a year. I bet i sell in a year what ausgock does in a week

  8. #10768
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    Tazz. Get some of Joe's Mold release spray. it will stop the lead on the sprueplate bottom and also help with bullets dropping. Mix it with Metho and use it in a pump spray bottle. $2 at Bunnies.

    I use a tiny bit of white lithuim spray grease in a cotton bud to lube the sprue plate, just a tiny dab near the sprue bolt works great.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  9. #10769
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    It doesn't mess with the application of hitek? I try and avoid any lube on the cast just in case.

    I have been using air tool oil to wipe on the cutter with success, for a time. Just not a long time....

  10. #10770
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    Neither will cause issues with the coating.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  11. #10771
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    I am not a on this thread too often. Where can i find information on Joe and his lube?

  12. #10772
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbstenberg View Post
    I am not a on this thread too often. Where can i find information on Joe and his lube?
    Hi kbstenberg
    The best place to get these lubes and release agents is from Donnie Miculek at Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings.
    He is a vendor sponsor of this site.

  13. #10773
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    I made a mistake and applied a double dose of coating solution while trying new coatings. I baked them anyway to see what happens. I put 4ml /2 lbs... did two little batches at once,gold and black.

    First coat looked surprisingly good,glossy and even- and most of the lube grooves were filled - they wiped and smashed fine. I have 20 ml denatured alcohol added to the 20g/100ml mix for easier dry weather swirling. It's snow here.

    This new gold is forgiving for mistakes. After first bake smash pic here:

    Attachment 229561

    I repeated my mistake and the gold ones just kept getting better with a second coat. Black became a little rough looking from too much coating at once. But it passes all the tests,just not as spotless glossy as gold.
    Last edited by Petander; 10-29-2018 at 07:07 PM.

  14. #10774
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    Here they are,two thick coats:

    Attachment 229562.

    This is way too much coating at once and completely against Hi-Tek instructions, my HCL cleaned bullets may have something to do with my results. The new gold really likes my alloy.

    I bet triple coated can take some serious velocity.

  15. #10775
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    I too have had some really nice results from a thin base coat, then two heavier coats that mostly fill the lube grooves and pass smash and wipe tests.

    I could possibly tumble longer to try and get coating in the grooves to look "pretty", but it's working for me. I put them in a sealed container and shake for 20 or so seconds, dump out on a sheet of laminated MDF board to dry. They are possibly a little wetter than the instructions state, but not wet enough to have pools of coating under them and look great, do not stick together.

    When i finally get my concrete mixer style coating setup done, i plan on trying a thinner mixture, but more of it so it will swirl around more and evaporate the solvent, leaving the same amount of physical coating on the projectiles, just taking longer to tumble and evaporate the excess solvent.

  16. #10776
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazza View Post
    I too have had some really nice results from a thin base coat, then two heavier coats that mostly fill the lube grooves and pass smash and wipe tests.
    That's how I normally do,a thin alcohol diluted first coat. I have two bottles for each colour,diluted and normal. I'll try to load these thick coated gold boolits asap. They feel really right and durable to touch.

    Dry winter weather may like more alcohol for everything. My first Hi-Tek winter is coming and I like it,like it,yes I do.

  17. #10777
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    Can i ask what bottles you use? i am currently using old glass jars, but they don't seal well and when i shake, the stuff gets EVERYWHERE. I need to tape the lids when not in use or else the acetone evaporates and i'm left with dry hi-tek. It does re-dissolve in acetone, but how much powder is there and how much solvent do i add? I just guess and it works. Thankfully, it is quite forgiving.

    Hopefully you won't have issue with winter weather, it may take a little longer for the solvents to evaporate. The main thing i remember Joe being concerned about was moisture, i have not had issues, even with our humid weather in Brisbane.

  18. #10778
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    Attachment 229565

    Kitchen things,I have no idea what to call these. They seal pretty good and don't melt in acetone.

    It looks that in winter acetone evaporates faster because air is very dry. I quickly added alcohol after trying a normal mix,couldn't swirl for five seconds I think. I do my coating in room temp. Pianos and gun stocks crack,guitar necks warp and shrink...

    Relative humidity % can be high outside. But when you heat that same air to room temp it means it's very dry inside. RH drops drastically. Many people use humidifiers for health reasons.
    Last edited by Petander; 10-29-2018 at 09:53 PM. Reason: Humidity

  19. #10779
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    Moccona coffee jars with the plastic seal are good large opening that allows the 10ml Syringe easy entry.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  20. #10780
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    I use 9 oz to 14 oz dish soap bottles with snap on caps, these hold up to Acetone and seal air tight.
    I use 125/20 mix for the first coat and 100/20 for the second coat, I have not done a third coat for a long time.

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