tomme boy. Have a read of the Hitek do's and don't thread.
It isn't rocket science.. Only Bullet coating...
tomme boy. Have a read of the Hitek do's and don't thread.
It isn't rocket science.. Only Bullet coating...
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Looks like I'm going to wait about melting wheel weights and casting till later.
Last edited by Avenger442; 03-05-2019 at 03:28 PM.
Take the day, enjoy the snow, go sledding... lol
Snow covered land it very picturesque, but living there can be miserable when it is cold, damp and ground is frozen solid.
I lived in such a place, where water pipes underground were frozen, and, we had to melt snow for a drink, and a hot bath.
No fun, but sledding down a big hill, priceless....
I am happy with the first batch Copper Red (Red Copper?). The oven's temperature was much less than good, i need to make some changes - add a PID, add some insulation, and have a door that keeps some heat in- any ideas of how to seal the door would be great.
See the photo they have good coverage. The first coat for 1kg of bullets was 2.5ml and 3ml for coats 2, 3. Wipe, Smash test successful and will shoot them at at the weekend.
Ever since I was quite young, I have felt that there is something fundamentally wrong with a place where one of the gases in the atmosphere periodically freezes out and lays on the ground. I would be very happy with a place where only the liquid-gas portion of the water cycle was observable.
KLC
“.....Nuttier than a squirrel turd.” - An assertion by a fellow forum member
Mozz
On the door, I have a cheap oven and noticed that the door had a gap around it. What I did was get some of the high temp silicone (black or blue) that I use when I'm working on an engine and put it around the oven where the door went when it closed. I put oil on the door where the sealant would touch so it would not stick to the door. Pressed the door in place and let the sealant set. This almost worked perfect. The problem was the oil didn't completely keep the sealant from sticking to the door. Vaseline might have worked better? In retrospect it might have been better to do both oil and a sheet of Sarhan (plastic) wrap to keep the sealant from sticking to the door then cut away the wrap. In any case, it sealed the crack.
On the snow, it is unusual for Alabama to get the kind of snow we got. Usually its an inch or two in the northern half. It's six inches plus at my house. Because we don't get the snow they get up north we don't have the equipment to handle it. It basically shuts everything down. In 1993 we had a blizzard. Depending on where you were 6-16 inches. My all electric home was without power for about a week. Water beds can be fun but not unheated. We had good neighbors that let a lot of the neighborhood share their gas stove heat. I have relatives that live in the northern states and they laugh at us and how three inches of snow can shutdown a city. They typically get 2 to three feet each year. We have a saying here in Alabama, "if you don't like the weather today don't worry it will be different tomorrow". We can have freezing weather on Monday and by Wednesday it can be 70 F. Snow shoes and then flip flops. We have both.
Last edited by Avenger442; 03-05-2019 at 03:27 PM.
High Temp Silicone i will get hold of some and thanks for the plastic and Vaseline tip.
We (in the UK) also have a issue with snow, we have it every year and it still causes us issues, either running out of rock salt for the roads, nothing the gritters out when we do have the rock salt, not having a emergency teams on standby for power failures even though we have it forecasted...
Hope you are in flip-flops soon,
They look great.
It looks a little like they may be just cooked, and possibly, you may benefit, by a little more cooking, as the finished colour can be a little darker.
It really depends on your end use, and how they sized after last cook, and, more importantly how they shoot.
Looking forward to your results.
Hope this helps with measuring. http://m.ebay.com/itm/170590801890?nav=SEARCH
Here is a good conversion sight for the metrically challenged.
http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/tem...onversions.php
Is there anybody here today that can give me the mix ratio 4 the 2-Extreme Hi-Tek powder??? I also need to know how much to add to the bucket to coat them with. I keep hearing different thoughts. Thin, thicker...... Thanks for your help. Ty
Mozz - just toss a heavy towel over the oven. It won't burn and gives cheap insulation. It's 30 in the garage, I cooked some this morning - did fine.
Whatever!
PS.. All of the info I keep finding is for the regular powder calling for a catalyst. 2-Extreme doesnt use a catalyst.
Has anyone seen a good video on mounting a PID to an oven? Are they drilling the side and putting the probe through or just running it through the crack in the door? I think I'm going to install one on my oven and Lee lead pot.
Ty: There are two systems or types of coating the liquids(first system) and the powders (second and latest system). With your powder the catalyst is already mixed with the powder so you just add acetone. The liquids require the mixing of the color and catalyst before adding the acetone.
My powder came with instructions. Which I have not read because I'm still using liquid. If you didn't receive instruction sheet look for post by Ausglock. He has been using it the longest and you can use his suggestions on mix.
Definitely thin coat. You will hardly be able to see the first coat on the lead. But when you cook it it will turn to the color you are using which will be more defined on the second thin coat. I'll give you my US measurements about one teaspoon to three pounds of bullets tumble for about 20-30 seconds in a container and let dry. Absolutely one teaspoon to three pounds is not critical but where to start. After you have used it for a while you can judge by eye how much to use. I've also found that the recommendations on amount of acetone in the instructions are a starting point. You can add more to help control coating too thick. Just keep in mind that more acetone means more drying time before baking. As Joe would say, it will also make your coating go a long way. I've started with the instructions and had good success. There is also another thread on this site "Hi-Tek Dos and Don'ts" (that I have not visited for a while) that keeps you in the know.
Snow is finally melting yipeeee.
Last edited by Avenger442; 02-28-2015 at 01:59 PM.
Thanks...... I mixed 2.5 tablespoons with 100m and first coat is extremely thin. Witch from from what I keep hearing is the best way to go. I'll go through those posts you mentioned for sure though. Thank you!
I will take pics for you. I did it on my lee pot and oven with frozone PID. You will need an additional probe. I keep one in the pot, and one in the oven.
Once your pid has learned the appliance, you note the 3 numbers and after that you just click them in when switching. No need to re-learn every time.
To make a quick story, for the toaster oven, I removed the outside side panels (cosmetic). That gave me access to the wiring, and inner panel (oven itself). Drilled a small hole at the rear end of the right panel to have the probe approx 1cm away from the back panel, approx middle of the oven.)
Wire all 4 elements to a plug, that you plug into the PID. Wire the fan to another plug, that you plug straight into the wall. Fan is constant on, and all 4 elements on the PID, with the probe at the back of the oven. Works #1.
I added a large metal plate and 12 pounds of lead inside the oven to stabilize temps. Works MUCH better.
Goin to cast and coat right now, I'll post pics at the end of the afternoon.
TyMarkle,
You can use YOUR POWDER SCALE.
20 GRAMS (not grains) to 100 ml of ACETONE
is the mixture to use for the powder.
DO NOT USE LESS as you risk not having sufficient ingredients
with relation to powder & catalysts in the powder.
SHAKE-SHAKE-SHAKE, let set 1 HOUR, SHAKE-SHAKE-SHAKE
Start to coat.
Let projectiles dry, AND NOT JUST TO THE TOUCH, I dry overnight,
especially the ALL IMPORTANT FIRST COAT.
Start to test "your" BAKING TIMES AND TEMPS
400F (200C) for 10 to 14 minutes.
Withdraw a couple projectiles at 10 & 11 & 12 & 13 & 14 minutes TO TEST.
Do both Smash and Acetone Wipe tests to test your success,
WITH YOUR OVEN AND PROCESS.
Use a DEDICATED OVEN and never again put FOOD INTO IT.
Last edited by Moonman; 02-28-2015 at 03:54 PM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |