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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #11681
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpotHound View Post
    My bullets with candy apple are passing the acetone wipe test every time, but fail the smash test every time. Thinking of changing to MEK next batch to see
    if its the solvents fault. Currently using Bunnings acetone.
    spothound, when you say fail the smash test, what exactly is happening? Is the coating coming off in big flakes?
    The boxes to tick are:
    Thinner solution 20 grams in 125ml Bunnings acetone. Those 250 ml bottles are just right for the Hi-Tek mix and I’ve been using them for about 4 years now. Empty out half acetone and mix the epoxy in the remaining.
    Let this mix stand for a minimum of one hour before use.
    Shake the solution for a minimum of 3 min
    Less is more- 1 ml per lot of 50 handgun Bullets. Stop swirling in 10!sec and look at the book it’s. if they’re dry and appear thickly coated, add another ml or two of acetone and swirl for a further 10 sec.
    drying time - I pour the coated Bullets into a tray on top of the hot oven- make sure a few drops of coating solution are left over , and pours into this drying tray. If your pills come out of the swirling jar all coated and dry and no excess solution, coating may be too thick. I leave them on the hot oven until HOT to touch, and the beginning of the colour is seen.
    Oven temperature- my 2nd hand 10 buck toaster oven grill runs a max of 230*C empty. I keep it booted up there while pills are drying in the tray on top.
    Open door and pop in Boolit tray and start timer. You’ll see the temp drop as the boolits start absorbing heat.
    Temp will stop dropping-once it stabilises, move it up if necessary, to make sure it’s at 200*C.
    Depending on quantity to Bullets in the tray, play around with the time, increase by a couple of minutes. Time - anywhere between 8-12 min. If you over cook them, they only darken.
    Try with 25 or even 10and see how your local humidity and temperatures affect overall process.
    I’m currently coating in a shed where it’s 6-7 *C and rain is off and on. So I prolong the drying time to drive out the water from the acetone it needs to come out by heating/ drying.
    Eyeball check- you’ll probably see the actual shade forming in the last 2-3 min of the bake - and boolits should look shiny. Which means you’ve got the dilution and coating correct. A rough finished , dull pill means many things: thick coating , not bonded enough to the lead etc.

    I sometimes get splotchy , leprous looking pills after the first coat, a second coat covers the blemishes and they pass the acetone rub and smash test.
    Good luck.
    Last edited by eljefeoz; 05-12-2019 at 07:56 PM.
    "...Some days its rocket science, and some days it just zinc..."

  2. #11682
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    So this weeks mission is to ream out my Lee Tumble Lube Mold so it drops the lead at 0.357......

  3. #11683
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    MAD. How do the TL moulds do with Hi-Tek? I have some 0.45” TL boolits to coat for a mate
    "...Some days its rocket science, and some days it just zinc..."

  4. #11684
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    Quote Originally Posted by eljefeoz View Post
    MAD. How do the TL moulds do with Hi-Tek? I have some 0.45” TL boolits to coat for a mate
    Bloody horrible...
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  5. #11685
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    Thanks, Trev. May as well give them a miss...
    "...Some days its rocket science, and some days it just zinc..."

  6. #11686
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    Quote Originally Posted by eljefeoz View Post
    MAD. How do the TL moulds do with Hi-Tek? I have some 0.45” TL boolits to coat for a mate
    No Idea, I havnt done the coating yet.... Still sorting out my drying trays, bullet spacers, Baking trays and now reaming out my Lee TL mold... Guess it wont be a TL mold after i have reamed it... It was a ****ty mold anyway, bullets dropped at 0.3555-0.3560 with my alloy and neither my Para or 2011 likes them...

  7. #11687
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    Quote Originally Posted by M.A.D View Post
    No Idea, I havnt done the coating yet.... Still sorting out my drying trays, bullet spacers, Baking trays and now reaming out my Lee TL mold... Guess it wont be a TL mold after i have reamed it... It was a ****ty mold anyway, bullets dropped at 0.3555-0.3560 with my alloy and neither my Para or 2011 likes them...
    Wonder if a few more coats would have helped make it fit the barrel better

  8. #11688
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    Ive never done coating before, only run through a rcbs lubsizer to lube it.. Hope to do a mass casting exercise next week, then give them their first coating... If i get the mold to drop at 357 then coat, then size to 357, Im hoping my guns will like it..

  9. #11689
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    Yup. I have about 400 x 370 gr for the .404 stashed away. Done about 4-5 years ago. Maybe check hardness and see how they do with Texas tea and gunmetal and resurrect the lubrisizer this weekend.
    "...Some days its rocket science, and some days it just zinc..."

  10. #11690
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    I've been test driving this STI for a few days now.

    I took it straight to the range with a few boxes of factory FMJ:s,all good,or should I say great. I then decided to clean the copper out with Eliminator before trying my Hi-Tek ammo. Well,to my surprise there was LEAD,too. Most probably from Magtech SWC ammo that the vendor sells,very few people cast pistol bullets up here where I live. The lead had been there before my few FMJ boxes.

    So much for "shoot the lead out" that I still see recommended around... But hey,no problem,enter "The Dip":

    Plug the barrel:

    Attachment 241473.

    Carefully fill the barrel with The Dip and watch it bubble:

    Attachment 241474.

    After two minutes,pour The Dip away and push the residue out:

    Attachment 241475.

    For STAINLESS barrels only. And yes,you get lead acetate which is bad stuff,use common sense. My Dip is very strong, using 50/50 strong household vinegar / 30% hydrogen peroxide. If you fill a cup with The Dip and drop a boolit in, the boolit bubbles away and completely disappears in a few minutes.

    The Dip is very handy for lead disasters like this.
    Thanks for that info Petander.
    I thought you’ll strip the barrel out and give it the dip! I wouldn’t want the vinegar to hit the bluing on my rifles. I give them the brass brush and Ed’s Red if I see / suspect leading.
    Seems to be a thing of the past now , with Hi-Tek.
    "...Some days its rocket science, and some days it just zinc..."

  11. #11691
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    No need to strip,I use pipettes to drop The Dip in.

    Care must be taken,and stainless only.

    I tried Girl Loads today and to my surprise Trojan worked with 820 fps / 185 grains absolutely problem free. No lighter spring needed.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #11692
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    Quote Originally Posted by M.A.D View Post
    Ive never done coating before, only run through a rcbs lubsizer to lube it.. Hope to do a mass casting exercise next week, then give them their first coating... If i get the mold to drop at 357 then coat, then size to 357, Im hoping my guns will like it..
    I'm sure you'll be fine, hi-tek is quite easy to apply. The biggest thing to watch is drying of the initial coat, as it's cooling off for us, and we have had some wet weather up here, you may want to gently warm them to ensure they are fully dry before baking.

    My old coating was applied by dip/spin. Get a basket of projectiles, dunk in a bucket of coating, lift and spin the excess off then drop out on a piece of laminated MDF (melamine?) to dry. I now use the same drying board for Hi-Tek without issues, same oven temperature and trays. Some use perforated trays to get more air around them, i haven't found any issues with just a sheet of melamine for a drying rack. Over time you get coating building up on the board, acetone and a rag cleans that up.

  13. #11693
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    Was someone on here chasing a schuemann barrel in oz?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #11694
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    Was someone on here chasing a schuemann barrel in oz?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That was me, M.A.D was seeing what he could do to get me one.

    The fact it says the locking lucgs aren't as sharp as they should be would make me a little concerned, if they aren't just right, will that cause wear where it locks up on the slide?

  15. #11695
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    Ausglock

    What size do you size your 9mm for your glocks at?

  16. #11696
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazza View Post
    That was me, M.A.D was seeing what he could do to get me one.

    The fact it says the locking lucgs aren't as sharp as they should be would make me a little concerned, if they aren't just right, will that cause wear where it locks up on the slide?
    What could possible go wrong with worn locking lugs in a 38 super pushing 125 grain Tc's @ 1350 fps

  17. #11697
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    Does anyone have experience with full loads in 45-70 rifle without GC but with Hi-Tek coating?

    It would be cool if this coating could replace Gas Checks? It's not funny to apply gas checks to several thousands of boolits!

    Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

  18. #11698
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter74 View Post
    Does anyone have experience with full loads in 45-70 rifle without GC but with Hi-Tek coating?

    It would be cool if this coating could replace Gas Checks? It's not funny to apply gas checks to several thousands of boolits!

    Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk
    I cast for myself and a good mate, I do 300gr 350gr 405gr 460gr and two different 500gr in .460 all coated. I use them in my 458wm and mate uses them in 45/70, there is no leading if no gas check is used. I do however find they shoot a little better in my 458 if gas checked. I advise you to try a few and see how your rifle shoots them plain base, I am sure you will be pleased with the results. I think the fast twist of the 458 is why it prefers gas checks for best accuracy. Regards Stephen

  19. #11699
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    I should also mention my brother shoots my plain base 320gr .452 in his 460SW magnum at near 2000fps with outstanding accuracy and no leading. Regards Stephen
    Last edited by Stephen Cohen; 05-15-2019 at 04:19 AM.

  20. #11700
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter74 View Post
    Does anyone have experience with full loads in 45-70 rifle without GC but with Hi-Tek coating?

    It would be cool if this coating could replace Gas Checks? It's not funny to apply gas checks to several thousands of boolits!

    Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk
    Click image for larger version. 

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    My favorite 45-70 plinker load is 325 RCBS @ 1900 fps, Hi-Tek TMG gold. Sized 4595, I use NOE 460 expander.

    Shoots clean, I had instant success with Hi-Tek and a new Marlin last summer.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check