I use 20 ml sollution on 10 kg.
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While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Grem...
your problems as I see them.
1. Pommy Brasstard.
2. Old
3. QLDer
4.Pommy Brasstard.
5. did I mention Old???
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Thanks, Trevor
2.5Kg == 5.51156 pounds
6mls per - 5.51156 pounds
BTW, you play cricket?
Conditor,
You are correct. In many instances, when not using gas checks, the coatings with metallic seem to take higher loads, there seems less possibility of gas cutting as the coating reflects heat well.
Quite some time ago, Gateway Bullet company did a video where this heat resistance was demonstrated. This is link to that video.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6x...VEjbLTV4m25gzQ
I believe that there are other such tests, as I recall someone cooking coated projectiles on a steel plate barbeque. The Steel plate was glowing Red with heat and the coating seemed to prevent heat melting the Lead alloy.
There may be others who did other tests. One I recall, was someone who froze the coated alloy to minus 40C. Then let it come back to room temperature and it passed all tests.
This Hi-Tek is certainly strange stuff.
My Hi-Tek coated 45-70 works normally in minus 20°C & 1950 fps, 325 grain plinker.
I didn't even think about it until now,my ammo definitely got down to outside temp one day last week. I was chronoing shotgun slugs but also had some 45-70 fun afterwards.
Attachment 235009
Petander
What loading press are you using with your shotgun shells?
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Trevor have you heard the old saying about Poms, you can tell a Pom anywhere your just can't tell him much. Regards Stephen.
So, the metallic coating are both better to look at and better at magnum/rifle loads without gc than a non-metallic coating?
Sounds like a win-win situation
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One day... when I get motivated and have time.
I will make a video of how to mix, apply and bake the HITEK powdered coating.
So even people that can't read instructions, can understand the process. That is assuming their eyes are not painted on.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
I'll have to charge the battery in the GoPro....
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
No gas check? That depends on your lead BHN and other things like pressure. Hi Tek is a good lube not a jacket. I shot some of the Hi Tek with three coats of 1035 Gold, a metallic, in my .308 without gas checks at around 2700 fps as an experiment and it did lead the barrel a little. Took Chore Boy and about 10 min to get it out.
Do I believe that Hi Tek is better than other lubes. I'll say this, I've shot PC and grease/wax lubes and it is better than what I have used in one way or another. Can you go full house with 12 BHN lead in a rifle without gas checks. No. Remember even jacketed bullets leave something to clean out of the rifling with heavy loads.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
[QUOTE=Conditor22;The faster an oven can get back to 200°C 400°F the shorter the bake time[/QUOTE]
I agree with your statement to an extent.
Temperature recovery and baking time, and results obtained, is mainly influenced by fan inside oven circulating heated air.
Generally, heating elements have plenty of heating capacity, but you must get heat produced into the load of coated alloy.
The only way that is possible is a mini cyclone air circulation.
I have said this many many time before.
It is not oven temperature is what is important, but the actual temperature load of coated projectiles is.
Again I repeat, please all take note;
The coatings, (especially with first coat) must be bone dry, irrespective of coating mixture composition.
Composition/concentration of mix being used, is not all that important if what ever is used is dried adequately and thoroughly.
The load in oven, must get to 180C, or above, and then stay there for another 3 minutes.
(The temperature monitoring of coated alloy load inside oven, governs how long any load is in the oven for correct cure, not how long air temperature of heated air gets to correct set temperatures.)
Irrespective of load into oven, this must be followed for success.
It is no good measuring hot air temperature in oven, when that heat contained in hot air is not transferred to the load being cooked.
Simple as that.
I have tried desperately to explain, that hot air is a poor conductor of heat. The hot air, must be circulated (the faster the better) to transfer contained heat into whatever you are baking. The faster air is circulated, the faster load get to desired temperature, and this controls time inside oven as well.
Many think, that if air is hot, all is well. Nooooo. Please measure loaded alloy temperature. That will provide all answers.
Avenger442 I have something for you. Check.your P.M.
Also I for sure can say that I went from a oven without a fan to now having a fan and I can for sure say there is a big difference.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |