simple Hi-Tek coating

[HI-TEK]

Will do,thanks - I have heat treated some when this happened before. It must be my (Niobium) contaminated alloy reacting differently with ZG,playing tricks. Black is kinda strange too,paint-like,not glossy glass at all.

Look at this beautiful TMG Gold, with the same bake it can take anything including magnum pressures / speed with very soft alloys.

Petander
Thanks for the information.
I am a bit surprised at the Black being less glossy.
This coating is very stable. I have had some reports of it being over baked which caused this loss of Gloss.
The coating "system" has multiple component that will start to reduce gloss a bit with over baking.
Having said that, we have had dark green coating baked for a week and it turned black, but was most accurate ammo.
That TMG Gold certainly seems to be performing well. What sort of speeds are used with Magnum loads? What was alloy hardness?
These results you obtained certainly seems to over turn some traditional thoughts on what can and cannot be done with the coatings.

[Petander]

That TMG Gold certainly seems to be performing well. What sort of speeds are used with Magnum loads? What was alloy hardness?
These results you obtained certainly seems to over turn some traditional thoughts on what can and cannot be done with the coatings.

My BHN is ~13 here, I'm trying to save my WW/Monotype mix stash by cutting it with "range scrap" which is pretty much pure from j-bullets. Three coats of TMG Gold, I bake a little darker than needed to be on the safe side. There are hot & cold spots in my oven.


Plain base bullets.
---------------

This is a 325 grain 500 S&W @ 1700 fps ~50 k psi. One of my favorite 500 loads - that NOE bullet has no grooves, I'm "force crimping" it with a Redding Profile crimp die. That's a 3" barrel. All clean.




Here is my 45-70 practise load, RCBS 325 @ 2000 fps. I have fired a bucketful of these, all clean again.





44 mag BHN I can drop below 10 BHN if I keep velocity under 1200 fps or so.

[Tazza]

Nice job, i hope to play around with .300BO in the coming months, see what sort of speed we can get and may need to tinker with a metalic to see if that will help with preventing leading. The idea is to keep them sub sonic, but come on, we all need to push the limits to see what we can get.

Tomorrow, i have a date with about 17,000 125gr conicals and a bottle of K15 black. See if i can get 3 coats on them while casting other sizes i need to do at the same time.

[Stephen Cohen]

Petander your findings of magnum velocity with soft alloy is same as mine, I cut clip on and stick on wheel weights as a 50 50 mix and as you say magnum velocity is fine. I have and do run 357 maximum rifle at 2,400 fps with clip on wheel weight alloy with fine accuracy and no problems. I am in the process of building a 30/357 maximum and also have high hopes for it as well. I have not tried pure soft lead alloy in the maximum as yet but I believe Hi-Tek will help it perform way beyond what one would expect. I have not tried any coated cast smaller than 30 cal as yet, but do have some 32/20 and 25/20 cast done ready to try in my 303 brit and 303/25 to see how fast I can push them. Regards Stephen

[Dsltech1]

Will the touch marks like this cause leading? In the light it still looks like there’s resin on the lead just no color. I usually put them aside to remelt. Wonder if I’m waisting my time doing that. The picture isn’t the greatest so it may be hard to see.

[Tazza]

It looks fine to me, i'd still send it. I have not had leading issues with any cast that after sizing, that there were any small sections that had exposed lead, say there was a small bump from a piece of lead being stuck to the side that was removed by the sizing die. Rare to see, but i put them in my pile for play rounds.

[dikman]

Hey Petander, looks like your aim was off a bit with the left side arm of your chrono.

[Dsltech1]

It looks fine to me, i'd still send it. I have not had leading issues with any cast that after sizing, that there were any small sections that had exposed lead, say there was a small bump from a piece of lead being stuck to the side that was removed by the sizing die. Rare to see, but i put them in my pile for play rounds.

I haven’t had that happen yet. Just the touch marks so far, but I just started casting a few months ago. It’s nice to know I can keep them in the pile!

[Petander]

Hey Petander, looks like your aim was off a bit with the left side arm of your chrono.

Yes,that was a 22LR almost 20 years ago.

I keep it as a reminder.

[Petander]

Petander your findings of magnum velocity with soft alloy is same as mine.

Both my Marlin and 500 S&W got purchased after I discovered Hi Tek coating. I started casting after a many years break because if this invention. I used to have these calibers earlier.

Casting and shooting coated with these has been ridiculously easy for me. Even the 500 which could use slightly larger cylinder throats is working great.

But there has been some strange things,in addition to the Zombie Green that doesn't like my alloy contaminants. I thought a 458 Socom would be easy with coated,oh man was I wrong. I struggled for a while and then got rid of the Tromix. There was lead everywhere and I tried everything... alloys,expanders,powders... 9 mm is another that never worked for me, it's not really worth loading for here where I live, components cost more than factory ammo... but still, it was impossible for me to get working really good with coated. 45 acp was right on right away...


So I'm not qualified to give expert advise here. But when things go right with Hi Tek it's always amazing.

Correct fit and NOE expanders are a good ticket.

[Stephen Cohen]

Petander, I think you will eventually work out all the problems you may have, I agree 9mm is a dog at times but most of the problems with it are barrel diameter and throat I think. I have payed attention to you since you first started posting and unlike many you never gave, up and you reaped the rewards for efforts. I wish I could learn to post the pictures you and others do. Regards Stephen

[DDriller]

I thought a 458 Socom would be easy with coated,oh man was I wrong. I struggled for a while and then got rid of the Tromix. There was lead everywhere and I tried everything... alloys,expanders,powders

Was your .458 Socom a bolt rifle? I know .458 Socom have a hard time finding any accurate bullet.

[Petander]

Was your .458 Socom a bolt rifle? I know .458 Socom have a hard time finding any accurate bullet.

It was an AR by Tromix. One hole accuracy with 350 FN Hornady... but I've been shooting that same bullet much faster (45-70) since -95 so there was that underpowered feeling with the caliber anyway. No big deal.

About 9mm, I was only interested in subsonic loads. Primer / powder cost makes 9 mm more expensive to load than factory ammo, even with free bullets.

But 9mm was so picky, whenever I got a working load for a certain pistol it never worked for a carbine or abother pistol. Nor the other way round. So instead of spending crazy amounts of time and money,I'm much happier buying my 9 mm ammo. 9 mm is of no priority for me, I prefer bigger.

As a side note,I just bought one pound of Longshot powder for 90€ . That is $100 USD. I don't really need Longshot but the dealer didn't have 3N37 and sold me Longshot... I may never open that record price can, Vihtavuori pound is $70 or so...

[Tazza]

Factory 9mm here from time to time can be dirt cheap, not as cheap as reloads, but it gets pretty close, good for people that don't shoot a lot or have time or interest in reloading. I think i have seen it down to about $15 for 50 rounds.

Naturally, if you want a specific load, you have no choice but to reload.

[ryanmattes]

Around here 9mm used to be $0.17 a round if you bought bulk, which is why I never loaded 9mm before. I couldn't buy components that cheap. With the recent ammo shortage, though, they're up around $0.80 per round now, so now I'm casting and loading 9mm.

It was about $0.05 each loading cast 9mm, but since primers are now pretty much gone, that may kick the price up 7-8 cents per round.

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[Tazza]

Primers are just under 6c each for winchester small pistol, powder would be 3 or so cents, depending on your load, then the cost of a projectile if you didn't cast your own.

So it really is the way to go if you have access to cheap lead and time to cast it.

[ryanmattes]

A brick of primers used to be $29, so just under 3 cents each. And a pound of powder was $25-$35, depending on the powder, so only 1-2 cents for a 3-4 grain charge. The expensive part was always the bullets themselves, ~15-20 cents each, and of course brass if you had to buy it.

I could always get factory 9mm for 17-20 cents per round, so I didn't even bother collecting the brass. It was actually more expensive to load.

But now a brick of primers is $100, if you can find them at all. Powder hasn't gone up more than a few $/lb so far, but I haven't seen bullets in stock anywhere in months. At this point it's not even about cost so much as availability.

It's just coincidence that I started casting recently, so when I finally started loading 9mm, I just started out with cast.

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[Petander]

"Cheap" is a bad word when it comes to anything guns related.

Life is just too short for messing up with bad stuff anyway,guns or not.

[Avenger442]

Would you accept the word thrifty?

Went to the range to test the latest of the loaded Hi Tek. I was going for the 200 yard and it was full for the whole time I was there. I'm going to have to take something else to do when I go to the range. This mistakenly called election by the media has doubled the numbers at the range. Even the 25 yard range was full the whole time I was there.

[Petander]

Mean Mr. Bean Green.



TMG Gold with 25% Tru Blu. Approx. one minute too long in 10°C too hot. Just to be on the safe side with my alloy.