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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #3521
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
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    Good stuff, Popper.
    The more people that learn about this coating, the better. You get to shoot more and it is far better, health wise, at indoor ranges.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  2. #3522
    Boolit Master

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    Ausglock,

    Gateway Bullets has some DRY POWDER now, I'm ordering some
    Black 1035, Zombie Green and Red/Copper Monday morning.

    I still have LIQUID mix your own RATIOS though, Brick Red (Lipstick),
    Dark Green, Gold and Gold 1035, I need to get casting.

    Going to go by the CAMP PERRY Ohio NATIONAL MATCHES tomorrow
    to look around, they also have supplies there for shooters.

    Even like around $2000/5000 round cases of 22 LR.

    I can shoot well enough to even worry about that SUPREMO 22 LR AMMO though.

  3. #3523
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Stephen Cohen, I am casting with linotype, then heat treating it, plus a water quenching after the last coat. Hardness should stay around 32 to 34 bhn this way. I did have one batch that would not go harder than 22 bhn, don't know why unless it was just too depleted from use.
    Also age then for 2 to 3 weeks.
    I am going to try a softer alloy with a mix of isotope lead and linotype, along with reclaimed shot to see what velocity this will take.

    I am impressed with the liquid Gold 1035 as the barrel from the last test looked unfired. No hard fouling at all and about 4 patches and it was clean.

  4. #3524
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    Leadman, thanks for the heads up, I cast some today out of some linotype and some with 50% cow, yes I also did the water quenching on last coat, however my cast are PB and I know you used gas checks.

  5. #3525
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    Stephan, I am going to do some testing without gas checks just to see what happens. I'll start out at around 1,200 fps and work up. I do have several of the very slow surplus powders and may use these for the mid velocity loads.
    One of the surplus powders is known for leaving a hard plastic type coating in the barrel and with jacketed this is not good, but I wonder what it will do for, or to a lead boolit? I will Hi-Tek coat the boolits so may have 2 coating surfaces working in the bore.

  6. #3526
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    Leadman, we seem to be of a similar mind, I loaded some 375 Whelen rounds today, 250gr coated cast ahead of 34 gr 2206h or as you know it H4895, this load did show promise with conventional lube. I plan to work up and see at what point it turns pear shaped, I am convinced the alloy is the deciding factor not the coating.

  7. #3527
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    With all the new colors and variations being offered, do they all perform the same? Is there a chart on which color performs best with a particular caliber? Or is this a "pick your favorite color and go with it"?

  8. #3528
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    Leadman - I'm testing the same idea, (blasphemy - PC) got to high 1700 in 30/30, low 1700 in BO. Yes, it is more alloy & design than coating. Got some isocore cast this week and also cut 50/50 to try. I got 1/2 L of the old green which works fine for 9 & 40. I've cooked for 1 hr @ 400F, no problem. so far I've done 7 peanut jars of 9 & 40, ~ 600 per jar, using ~25 mL of Cat. I think this will last a lifetime, for me. First time I went to that indoor range they wanted $40/100 of jwort 9mm reloads (last year). Would have spent $200 on $20 of ammo. I don't see much incentive for the range to sell $60 worth of coated ammo - got to include some PM. That's the rub.
    Whatever!

  9. #3529
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    Quote Originally Posted by zomby woof View Post
    With all the new colors and variations being offered, do they all perform the same? Is there a chart on which color performs best with a particular caliber? Or is this a "pick your favorite color and go with it"?
    The metallics (red/copper, brown copper, gold 1035 etc etc) are better for high velocity. the non metallics ( Black, reds, greens) are fine for all handgun loads. Even Major power factor loads are fine. I have pushed a 105gn pill out of a 357Sig at 1700fps from a Glock 35. No leading and fired fine.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  10. #3530
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    Anyone else besides me tumble their casts for 2-3 mins before coating to knock any flashing if any off?
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  11. #3531
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    The metallics (red/copper, brown copper, gold 1035 etc etc) are better for high velocity. the non metallics ( Black, reds, greens) are fine for all handgun loads. Even Major power factor loads are fine. I have pushed a 105gn pill out of a 357Sig at 1700fps from a Glock 35. No leading and fired fine.
    Trevor,I was going to order black from Joe,I'm looking for speed so your saying blacks no good?,should I go the red/copper instead?. Pat

  12. #3532
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    No but I have thought it may be a good idea, does it deform the bases at all.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gremlin460 View Post
    Anyone else besides me tumble their casts for 2-3 mins before coating to knock any flashing if any off?

  13. #3533
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Trevor,I was going to order black from Joe,I'm looking for speed so your saying blacks no good?,should I go the red/copper instead?. Pat
    All the coatings and Metallics will do the job. Plain coloured coatinsg have been used in all sorts of applications.
    Metallics are Texas Tea (Black Gold), Old Gold, Sunny Gold, 1035 Gold, Zombie Green, Candy Apple Red, Bronze, Glitter Bronze, Red Copper, Bronzed Copper, Brown Copper, and Natural.

    Plain tinted will work with the majority, and if plain colours are applied slightly thicker, it will be difficult to separate plain tinted coating and Metallic coatings with performance.

    So in high energy use, they all will work, if applied adequately and correctly, and if they are used at with similar coating thicknesses, however, the metallics, will reflect heat a little better, when the plain colours are compared with the Metallics on side by side basis.
    This heat reflecting property, is useful with high energy end use applications, and, in many uses, there is no requirement for gas checks.
    Coating has ability to reflect powder heat adequately away from alloy, which normally can melt or damage tail end of projectile without a gas check.

  14. #3534
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    Last year I purchased an early Omak mod 44 from a death estate, along with the rifle there was a large bag of Lee 180gr cast, fitted with checks and coated with black, I understand the old gent used them in Omark but have no idea of his load. I plan to test them now I have the scope rail fitted to rifle. I actually like the black coating myself.

  15. #3535
    Boolit Master Gremlin460's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Cohen View Post
    No but I have thought it may be a good idea, does it deform the bases at all.
    Nope, not that I have noticed..
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  16. #3536
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    whats the difference between black and black 1035?
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  17. #3537
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    Hatch, I don't have the black but have the Gold and Gold 1035. The 1035 is a harder resin. I would think this would be the same for the black.

  18. #3538
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    All the coatings and Metallics will do the job. Plain coloured coatinsg have been used in all sorts of applications.
    Metallics are Texas Tea (Black Gold), Old Gold, Sunny Gold, 1035 Gold, Zombie Green, Candy Apple Red, Bronze, Glitter Bronze, Red Copper, Bronzed Copper, Brown Copper, and Natural.

    Plain tinted will work with the majority, and if plain colours are applied slightly thicker, it will be difficult to separate plain tinted coating and Metallic coatings with performance.

    So in high energy use, they all will work, if applied adequately and correctly, and if they are used at with similar coating thicknesses, however, the metallics, will reflect heat a little better, when the plain colours are compared with the Metallics on side by side basis.
    This heat reflecting property, is useful with high energy end use applications, and, in many uses, there is no requirement for gas checks.
    Coating has ability to reflect powder heat adequately away from alloy, which normally can melt or damage tail end of projectile without a gas check.
    Now you've made it harder to choose,Texas Tea sounds good,the candy apple red would get attention. Pat

  19. #3539
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    whats the difference between black and black 1035?

    Black is Black, shiny and slippery.
    The Black 1035 is designed for Texas, and has metallics, as well as other stuff, to make it like liquid gold, just like Jedd Clampett found lol lol..

    In reality, the Black has been modified to help with folk who wanted a tougher more heat resistant coating, but wished to continue to use a black coating.
    The Black 1035 is a very nice black with Gold glitter visible in the coating.

  20. #3540
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    Black is Black, shiny and slippery.
    The Black 1035 is designed for Texas, and has metallics, as well as other stuff, to make it like liquid gold, just like Jedd Clampett found lol lol..

    In reality, the Black has been modified to help with folk who wanted a tougher more heat resistant coating, but wished to continue to use a black coating.
    The Black 1035 is a very nice black with Gold glitter visible in the coating.
    What Joe said! Lol

    I do have the black 1035 in stock in the powdered version along with the red copper, brown copper, black, and the zombie green.
    Gatewaybullets.com

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check