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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #10381
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    back in my superbike racing days,we were using actetone to remove the molding product they put in the tire's molds to help releasing the freshly molded tire from the molds. this stuff is very sticky. rubbing the tire with a rag dipped in acetone was doin the trick.i figure if it's strong enough for this duty,it can remove anything greasy on a boolit.

  2. #10382
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    Here is a previosly lubed and sized bullet, smashed after one Hi-Tek coat.I think I got rid of the lube just fine, the coating is bonding good.

    Attachment 225105
    Hmmm, for one coat of HT this sure looks like a non diluted coat or a really heavy coat. One coat of HT on mine and I still see lead and one coat looks more like a very light stain than yours. Just curious at what ratio you mix your HT and are you using liquid or powder?

  3. #10383
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    Quote Originally Posted by igolfat8 View Post
    Hmmm, for one coat of HT this sure looks like a non diluted coat or a really heavy coat. One coat of HT on mine and I still see lead and one coat looks more like a very light stain than yours. Just curious at what ratio you mix your HT and are you using liquid or powder?
    I know what you mean,this looks like lots of coating. What I'm doing now is just a result from experimenting. It could be all wrong but the thin mixture gets really sucked in by the porous HCL washed surface. No more flaking even after many coats.


    So:

    I use Hi-Tek powder as per instructions , 20 grams / 100 ml acetone. But I add about 30-40 ml denatured alcohol to the mix. This way I get a very thin but even coat almost all over the bullet. I can swirl without rushing it, my bullets are wet when I dump then on a mesh tray.

    Here it is after the swirl,dried,waiting for the first bake:

    Attachment 225146

    The following coats can be thicker if wanted. I have many bottles with different colours and ratios. Most importantly, I shoot these 1700 fps with a factory rough Marlin without leading. No GC or anything...I still don't really understand this but I like it!
    Last edited by Petander; 08-07-2018 at 12:03 PM. Reason: Add puc

  4. #10384
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    Thin is good on the first coat. A good base coat does wonders for the rest of the coats

  5. #10385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    I know what you mean,this looks like lots of coating. What I'm doing now is just a result from experimenting. It could be all wrong but the thin mixture gets really sucked in by the porous HCL washed surface. No more flaking even after many coats.


    So:

    I use Hi-Tek powder as per instructions , 20 grams / 100 ml acetone. But I add about 30-40 ml denatured alcohol to the mix. This way I get a very thin but even coat almost all over the bullet. I can swirl without rushing it, my bullets are wet when I dump then on a mesh tray.

    Here it is after the swirl,dried,waiting for the first bake:

    Attachment 225146

    The following coats can be thicker if wanted. I have many bottles with different colours and ratios. Most importantly, I shoot these 1700 fps with a factory rough Marlin without leading. No GC or anything...I still don't really understand this but I like it!

    PETANDER,
    You have succeeded again.
    You have proven, that thin coats, well bonded will work just fine. Once first coat is applied, dried and baked, (and, it does not matter how thin) , the subsequent coats, can be also thin, (diluted mixtures) will bond well to first coat, and will stay bonded and work.

    From my understandings, gas checks are normally used , to prevent heat from burning powder from melting alloy, resulting with the bypassing hot gasses between bore and alloy. With the Hi-Tek coatings, the severe heat is reflected, and this significant reduction of heat prevents melting of the alloy.
    Gas checks can be also considered a "version" of Jacketing, but only the tail end of the alloy is covered.
    As long as you can prevent gas cutting, and can separate bore from alloy, that is all that is required.
    What you have done is demonstrated just those points.
    Thin coats, even multiple lots, will work just great. It is that first pesky coat that is needed to be right in the first place. You have done just that.

  6. #10386
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    I sent some Gold 1035 to a fellow caster today.

    He has been casting for 30 years,also tried powder coating. I have a feeling that Hi-Tek will impress him.

  7. #10387
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    Making/using a mechanical tumbler really helped with my consistency.
    Trevor has a fancy one costing big bucks, mine is a simple, cheap DIY one.
    Basic model: 2x8 or 2x10 base, 2x4 for back support, ¾ ply front and back, ¼ ply or ? for elevation, 1 windshield wiper motor, 1 computer power supply, 2 wheels, a piece of metal strapping or ¼ ply to attach motor, 2 gal base bucket, fasteners, M8 bolt, M8 thread coupling (to attach bucket to wiper motor), agitators (I used 2 pieces of ¾ nylon cutting board cut at a bevel you can use what ever you have around)
    Outlet box and switch.
    Power from main power lead on pc powder supply, separate all the yellow wires (12 volt) and black wires (ground) and green wire (on/off switch) from that one lead. (you don’t need the rest) I hooked 1 black and the green to a switch.
    Choose your base and wheels and mount accordingly
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bXLq_9CW4c
    with metal base

    Bucket attached to wipermotor


    My coater assembled

    Sample from online

    My coater without top on it (I buried all the wires in the power supply on this one)

    Coating bucket ( I have one for each color)



    Put in the boolits to be coated, turn it on, shake and measure your Hitek solution, check the clock and add the Hitek solution.
    Depending on motor speed, size and angle on your agitators you’ll need to determine the best time (10 – 15 seconds) to coat

  8. #10388
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    BONUS: instead of a coating bucket you can modify a bucket similar to this, get a square 2# peanut jar, put 2# of pins in it and you have a brass polisher (fill up to 80% with brass, 90% with hot water, a little citric acid and 1 squirt dish soap) [the amount of brass you can tumble at one time may depend on how heavy duty your wiper motor is, you may need a small fan to keep the wiper motor cool




  9. #10389
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    Nice job! pretty well all made from old bits and pieces.

    Jmorris had an automatic tumbling setup like this too, simple yet very effective.

    How many do you dump in at once? I guess the only limitation is the motor power and what you can manage to pick up and move.

  10. #10390
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    Good job, Grmps.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  11. #10391
    Boolit Master Gremlin460's Avatar
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    Well done Grmps!! You did real well.
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  12. #10392
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazza View Post
    Nice job! pretty well all made from old bits and pieces.

    Jmorris had an automatic tumbling setup like this too, simple yet very effective.

    How many do you dump in at once? I guess the only limitation is the motor power and what you can manage to pick up and move.
    I do 9# (4.1 kg) per batch

  13. #10393
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    I’ve been watching this particular thread since late 2015 and greatly appreciate the valuable information and the subsequent developments in the products evolution. Isn’t it about time to segment the thread and lock the older iteration discussions? Perhaps by 2 year segments or catalyst transition timeline.

    Or better yet, you may want to just delete my suggestion. !)

    Cbc

  14. #10394
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    And loose all the witty banter????
    No way....
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  15. #10395
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    Got a new Lee .452 TC 45 acp mould in the mail at 5:30 pm. Turned on the pot at 600 pm. Turned on the oven at sevenish. First picture is the first light coat of Hi-Tek Gold. Second picture is the second light coat. Out of the oven at 8:54 pm. Three hours and twenty four minutes and ready to load. I could do more coats to get a pretty bullet, but that is not what I am after. They will work marvelously at 790 fps in my Bersa Thunder 45 or the Hi-Point carbine at a little faster speed. Clean barrels, no smoke, no dies full of lube, no waiting 24 hours for something to almost get dry, etc. and etcetra.
    And I will add that the bullets are round from this mould or that is,, nearly at .453......452. The lead is from a batch of ingots one and two lbs. of unknown mix. I can barely make a finger nail scratch on them. The ingots weighed over 300 lbs. and were in two five gallon plastic buckets. I had to set them in the bucket of his loader at the junk yard.. We took them around front and needed to put them on the scale. A young strong looking man was there and tried to lift a bucket, gave up in disdain. I put the buckets on the scale because it was the needed thing to do. I really didn't want to make the young man look bad, but I guess it did. The guy on the loader did say something about the old man showing him up.. LOL. Then 80 years old.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180809_205751.jpg   20180809_202548.jpg  
    Last edited by OldBearHair; 08-09-2018 at 10:46 PM. Reason: additional statement

  16. #10396
    Boolit Master OldBearHair's Avatar
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    Reverse the picture numbers and it will be right. The smashed bullet is in there as well.

  17. #10397
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    Nice job, you sure didn't waste any time getting casting with your new mould.

    You need to show up the "young kids" these days, many years of heavy lifting means i can lift more than i probably should. I'd like to have seen his face being shown up by someone quite a few years his senior

  18. #10398
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    Thanks Tazza, Reason I posted this was someone said in another post that it was too much trouble opposed to traditional lubing and I thought to myself really I don't spend much time doing it, so I paid attention to the time it took today. My vote is Hi-Tek over anything else.

  19. #10399
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    I guess it could be faster with a lube sizer, but there is no way hi-tek is slow. The main benefit i see is they are not sticky, and there is a barrier between you and lead.

  20. #10400
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    i just love this color.everytime i'm loading my old gold hi tek'ed boolits,i'm feeling like a rich businessman LOL!!
    Last edited by glockfan; 08-10-2018 at 07:53 AM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check