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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #8501
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Christensen View Post
    Ok so these things look great. My problem is that after 4 coats they still fail the rub test. 400 degrees dried for a day in between. hmmmm?
    We have been discussing for some time some of the coatings that came across the P pond with a little too much color in them. Donnie said he thought it was just the reds but I've also had a problem with dark blue and black 1035. These will deposit a little color on the rag when doing rub test. But coating will not come off down to the lead. Some will leave a little color in your barrel which cleans out like powder residue. It would help to analyze you problem if you could post a photo of the rag and bullet used in the rub test. It's probably just one of those batches with too much color. Joe waisting his resources

    If you do get some where they rub off all the way to the lead on first rub test you can bake them a little longer and fix it. No amount of baking will fix the batches with too much color in them. Just load em and shoot em. Mine that are that way leave no lead in the barrel. Which is the main objective anyway. If they fail a smash test, that is big flakes down to the lead, then start all over means toss them in the melting pot and re cast. The only way to fix that problem.

    This is the non-professional coater speaking from my experience with Hi Tek. Ain't no complaint intended.
    Last edited by Avenger442; 03-25-2017 at 05:34 PM.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  2. #8502
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avenger442 View Post
    We have been discussing for some time some of the coatings that came across the P pond with a little too much color in them. Donnie said he thought it was just the reds but I've also had a problem with dark blue and black 1035. These will deposit a little color on the rag when doing rub test. But coating will not come off down to the lead. Some will leave a little color in your barrel which cleans out like powder residue. It would help to analyze you problem if you could post a photo of the rag and bullet used in the rub test. It's probably just one of those batches with too much color. Joe waisting his resources

    If you do get some where they rub off all the way to the lead on first rub test you can bake them a little longer and fix it. No amount of baking will fix the batches with too much color in them. Just load em and shoot em. Mine that are that way leave no lead in the barrel. Which is the main objective anyway. If they fail a smash test, that is big flakes down to the lead, then start all over means toss them in the melting pot and re cast. The only way to fix that problem.

    This is the non-professional coater speaking from my experience with Hi Tek. Ain't no complaint intended.
    you can see the lead spot where it came off

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
    "Consequently we move away from other shooters to remain focused on our passion, as our ideas are quickly dismissed or misunderstood by others. Sharing does not come easily for swagers, not because they are necessarily selfish, but because they have been whittling away in their only little world for so long, that being able to relate to others what they understand is no simple task."

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  3. #8503
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Christensen View Post
    you can see the lead spot where it came off

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
    I would not suggest shooting these at all. Coating has not bonded to alloy.
    The ones you showed, should not pass smash test, and coating will flake off.
    The colour you obtained is well over cooked, but that is not a problem. Lack of coating bonding to alloy is the problem. This unfortunately is a re-melt job.

    There seems to be a confusion with description of rub test and results.
    With only a few colours, we did obtain a "Bleed of colour", no flakes were coming off.
    1. Solvent rub test, is there, to ensure that coating resin is cured adequately. If coating is not cured adequately, next coat will strip previous coats.
    2. If coating rubs off alloy in shreds , strips or flakes, coating is cured but not stuck to alloy.
    Main reasons why first coat has not sticking is
    a. Not drying coating adequately, wet and humid or cold drying conditions.
    ( It is best to test cook only a few to check drying, and to see if good bonding has been reached) If it cooks well, no flaking with smash test, no rub off, only then bake rest.
    b. Applying too much coating coupled with "a", which slows down drying.

  4. #8504
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    Not trying to be to quick to judge but this bucket is going in the trash. I have lost track at how many different batches as of now all with the same result. After trying it many different ways over the last two weeks; waited a day for drying, put them under a fan, cooked some at 375, some at 400, some at 425, some for 10 minutes (still the same color), some for 20 minutes. I am not one to give up easily but after spending time to cast and then to have none of this working out, I am going to call it quits. Maybe I am just not able to learn how to use it. Definitely not worth my time. Hi Tek and I are just not meant to be.

    Thanks you everyone for the help.
    "Consequently we move away from other shooters to remain focused on our passion, as our ideas are quickly dismissed or misunderstood by others. Sharing does not come easily for swagers, not because they are necessarily selfish, but because they have been whittling away in their only little world for so long, that being able to relate to others what they understand is no simple task."

    ​Mentor



  5. #8505
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Christensen View Post
    Not trying to be to quick to judge but this bucket is going in the trash. I have lost track at how many different batches as of now all with the same result. After trying it many different ways over the last two weeks; waited a day for drying, put them under a fan, cooked some at 375, some at 400, some at 425, some for 10 minutes (still the same color), some for 20 minutes. I am not one to give up easily but after spending time to cast and then to have none of this working out, I am going to call it quits. Maybe I am just not able to learn how to use it. Definitely not worth my time. Hi Tek and I are just not meant to be.

    Thanks you everyone for the help.
    Coukd you have contaminated the bullets? Drop Bullets on a dirty rag? Too much sprue plate lube? Oil or lube in a storage container? Something prior to costing that is creating a barrier?

  6. #8506
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    OK... Joe...
    If you are using 6mls to 250 bullets and getting this.
    Try dropping back to 4mls for the first coat.
    Bake it and do the test.
    Let me know.

    As MJS said above.. are you sure there isn't any other crud that could be on the alloy prior to coating??
    You are using pure Acetone?? UN1090.. the real deal. Not some walmart special???
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  7. #8507
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Christensen View Post
    Not trying to be to quick to judge but this bucket is going in the trash. I have lost track at how many different batches as of now all with the same result. After trying it many different ways over the last two weeks; waited a day for drying, put them under a fan, cooked some at 375, some at 400, some at 425, some for 10 minutes (still the same color), some for 20 minutes. I am not one to give up easily but after spending time to cast and then to have none of this working out, I am going to call it quits. Maybe I am just not able to learn how to use it. Definitely not worth my time. Hi Tek and I are just not meant to be.

    Thanks you everyone for the help.
    What temperature are you drying at?

    I found that getting them to 125 deg F for 30 min insures that drying is complete and then there is the contaminated alloy question, maybe try a totally different bunch of alloy.

  8. #8508
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    I hear a lot of talk about proper drying but have never seen and issue with just a couple minutes depending on the day.
    Me thinks it's a contamination.

  9. #8509
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    I fill up a small Folgers plastic coffee can with boolits and pour about 4 oz. of acetone over them and shake. Then drain that into another plastic can full through 4 cans full. I drain off the excess and discard. I pour the boolits out into each cooking tray and put them under a fan to dry, which takes all of less then two minutes. That pretty much washes off any residual contamination. This process has worked for me.

  10. #8510
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    If things get too hot during casting resulting in "frosty" casts can that adversely affect first coat bond? Some of the frost will wipe or rub off.

  11. #8511
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    I coated 500 for a buddy last week and his bullets were frosty. They came out fine.
    Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!

  12. #8512
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    Tried it on bullets for my .455 Webley today and it just works. I'm happier than a pig in mud


  13. #8513
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    17nut,
    Good looking bullets.

  14. #8514
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings View Post
    17nut,
    Good looking bullets.

    Agreed. Well done 17nut. How did you find bore after shooting these?

  15. #8515
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    Quote Originally Posted by 17nut View Post
    Tried it on bullets for my .455 Webley today and it just works. I'm happier than a pig in mud


    Cool bullet! what mould is that?

  16. #8516
    Boolit Master Gremlin460's Avatar
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    Trev, Pete (armourer up here @ GCPC) tell me he is looking for 500 of the 45/70 @ 300GN PM your reply ifn you like.
    Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.

  17. #8517
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    Sounds like he is having the problems I was. My Hi-Tek is working amazing. I have bought 6 colors and love them. The ones I don't care as much for is the black cherry,gold 1025,old gold but then again I'll still use them. The kryptonite green,bronze 500 and bronze 502 are amazing.
    Anyways I was working on this coating for prob. A year and had bad results. My lead had sink in it. I said I wouldn't go back to WW so now I'm buying Range lead and like it. 12 min. Is about my ideal cooking time. I prob could do 11.5 but been doing 12.

  18. #8518
    Boolit Master Avenger442's Avatar
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    I also like those bullets that 17nut has coated. I don't remember seeing that bullet before and was also wondering if it was a custom mold. Wide flat nose and hollow base. Looks like a good hard hitting hunting bullet.

    And I like the rifle bullet Blane did one page back. Looks like something I would put in my gun. You guys look like you've got it.

    We're getting some good photos of the coated bullets and I would like to see how they perform, too. Since that is the end goal.

    I plan on going to the range this Saturday. Will try to post photos of the results.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  19. #8519
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael J. Spangler View Post
    Cool bullet! what mould is that?
    RCBS 455-250-RN-HB



    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/19...se-hollow-base

  20. #8520
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    Quote Originally Posted by 17nut View Post

    Thank ye sai

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check