simple Hi-Tek coating

[Gatch]

Gatch... FFS... do NOT use a Lee Carbide Factory crimp die. It will Flock up your bullet dia.

I don't own a lee fcd. I'm using the dillon dies that came with the press.

[Conditor22]

Salutations gentlemen.

Couple things. PID got hooked into oven tonight. After thinking I had it sorted I realised I'd hooked it into the common neutral wire. So after repairing that little booboo I hooked it into the element selector switch instead. Played around with it and it works a charm. Stoked !

Second thing. 10 rounds with the hitek green lee 125gr rn boolits leaded up my barrel nicely. It was mostly in the rifling grooves. I can see why people are so keen to avoid leading. What a pain to clean ! So I started at step 1 and slugged my barrel again. Grooves measure .3555-.356 so the coated boolits get sized to .357. The boolits I used are straight coww, they were coated twice and passed both the solvent wipe and smash test. These ones were even a bit over cooked and went pretty dark green. I'm using 4.0gr of ap70 (hodgson universal in usa) which SHOULD give me around 1000fps. I don't remember the oal off the top of my head. I will check tomorrow. I pulled a boolit out of a loaded case and it measured .355. Is this indicating I need to make a larger diameter expander plug/powder funnel for the dillon ? Also if I have crimped too much, will this swage the bullet down as it goes past the crimp ?

9MM is a tapered case and most newbies over crimp it which does swage it down causing leading and poor accuracy.

I use the seat/crimp die, increasing the crimp only until , when I push the loaded cartridge against my bench the boolit doesn't move.

Unlike Trevor I do use the lee factory crimp die, but not for crimping I barely "kiss" the loaded cartridge with the LFC to ensure proper chambering.

load a cartridge then use a hammer type boolit puller and pull the boolit. IF the boolit is downsized your crimping to hard. For softer lead I use a .356 expander plug for my .357 boolit.

the harder the lead, the less likely it will swage down when loaded or crimped.

OAL seat the boolit as long as you can and still have it cycle and chamber in your gun, this will give you the best accuracy.

this will give you an idea of the hardness needed

[Petander]

Cast & 9mm is lots of measuring around. Delicate stuff,I need three different bullet sizes and three different loading procedures for three different guns. If I want accuracy.

[Tazza]

Personally, i put 3 coats on mine, sized to .357 without leading.

Even wheel weights shouldn't lead up after only a few rounds, i'd like to see another coat on them and see if you still have the same issue.

On my semi-autos, i just close up the case flare, so there is no crimp.

[Conditor22]

My euro 9's slug out at P-38 .358 and Llama .358 most of the US at .355 - .355+. I can get away with 2 different sized boolits = 2 different expanding and crimping setups (also use 1 color only for the euro 9's)

[hunter74]

I've also had trouble with the Dillon bullet seating die. Mine is too tight and size the lead down. Since I put the Dillon seater away and replaced it with a cheap Lee seater my lead 9mm is great and does not lead the barrel. What I'm saying is the the bullet seater could also be the cause of downsizing your bullet....

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[Gatch]

I've also had trouble with the Dillon bullet seating die. Mine is too tight and size the lead down. Since I put the Dillon seater away and replaced it with a cheap Lee seater my lead 9mm is great and does not lead the barrel. What I'm saying is the the bullet seater could also be the cause of downsizing your bullet....

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

Do you mean the crimp die ? The seating die doesn't touch the case I think.

[hunter74]

No, I mean the bullet seater. Mine sizes down the expanded case quite a bit.

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[ioon44]

No, I mean the bullet seater. Mine sizes down the expanded case quite a bit.

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

I have had the same problem with some Dillon dies, and replaced them with the new Hornady dies which are working great with Hi-Tek coated bullets.

[Petander]

Then we have the throats and leades,or lack of them.

What's your opinion on this Euro 9mm one? Dirty,yes, I haven't tried any cast with it yet.

[pkchwy]

is there a way to coat the lube groves with Ti-tek coating??

[Conditor22]

Mix the solution thinner and do 3 or more coats.
the thinner solution will get in the groves easier and 3 coats will give the groves a better chance of getting coated.

It's not necessary for the groves to be coated.

[Petander]

Three coats cover everything.

[Tazza]

Three coats cover everything.

I do the same, i know it's not needed, but 3 coats make them prettier

[Gremlin460]

Years ago I found straight up COWW "as is" lead barrels, well my 2 anyway, bumping the mix to 94-2-4 cured all probs. So COWW raw I feel is 2-3 BHN too soft. Also I size 358 for a 356 bang-tube and 357 for the wifes 355.2 1911 .

Mike.

[Burnt Fingers]

Right on Stephen.
Eggshell blonde???? I have no hair left after ripping all out in frustration over years.

I have to laugh at Ausglocks crazy sense of humour, and he certainly stirs the pot.

This crazy stuff called Hi-Tek certainly stirred up the natives some.
All the unique questions and new applications, has really taught me a few things. I don't know, if in the period if I have mellowed any however.

It seems that my search for the elusive Blue may be possible. It is now being tested. So far, it passes all tests, except solvent wipe test. I am working on that aspect. If I succeed, there may be a deep Royal Blue product. I am not holding out any unreasonable expectations, but I am only hoping.
It has only taken some 20 plus years.

Any news on that deep blue?

[HI-TEK]

Any news on that deep blue?

Burnt fingers
Progress is slow, but not forgotten. There are several options being trialled, to determine best results we can get. It is and has been a very difficult project due to the Blue type additives not being able to survive with the resin and heat set system combination. We have narrowed down some possibilities and tests are continuing. As soon as we have good or bad results it will be published. Thanks much for your interest.

[Petander]

I converted factory ammo trap shot to 20 gauge balls. The shot was contaminated with who knows what, I got yellow dross in the pot walls and the balls turned black in acid wash real fast.

Overnight HCL soak,perfect results.

[HI-TEK]

I converted factory ammo trap shot to 20 gauge balls. The shot was contaminated with who knows what, I got yellow dross in the pot walls and the balls turned black in acid wash real fast.

Overnight HCL soak,perfect results.

What was colour of the acid wash after overnight soak?
I have never seen a Yellow dross before. I know Iron oxides can be grey black to a reddish colour, but Yellow??? this is a real mystery. I don't know of any metal chlorides or residues that are Yellow. I am thinking hat it may be Cadmium, but don't really know. Is it possible to have tested any metal that is not acid washed to determine contaminant? I am also wondering if it is Chromium? Very strange.. But, results after acid wash seems to have worked well.

[HI-TEK]

I converted factory ammo trap shot to 20 gauge balls. The shot was contaminated with who knows what, I got yellow dross in the pot walls and the balls turned black in acid wash real fast.

Overnight HCL soak,perfect results.

Petander,
I think your Yellow dross may be solved. There are two forms of Lead Oxides.
PbO (lead (II) oxide, litharge) : red
PbO (lead (II) oxide, massicot) : yellow
(Same chemical formula, different crystal structures)
It seems, that you have made the yellow version with your mystery composition alloy.
I don't know how it was produced, but that is most likely explanation for your Yellow dross.