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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #10661
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Only change one thing at a time. Keep your current temp, but reduce the bake time by 1 minute and see how it goes. if still a bit brown, reduce it by 30 seconds.
    Ok

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  2. #10662
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanep View Post
    I did exactly that except I think they dried while shaking them. I left them in the oven for twelve minutes. I think it wad to much. They're good, but they look good too me. It'll take some practice, I'm not giving up. I've got more bullets and 500 pounds of lead lol.

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    something to consider is covering the elements with the crumb catcher that comes with the oven. that way, you're getting a radiant heat which is what is needed with hi tek. i've seen that the direct heat on the boolits can ''burn''' the color after less that the recommanded cooking time.

  3. #10663
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockfan View Post
    something to consider is covering the elements with the crumb catcher that comes with the oven. that way, you're getting a radiant heat which is what is needed with hi tek. i've seen that the direct heat on the boolits can ''burn''' the color after less that the recommanded cooking time.
    That's a good idea

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  4. #10664
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    You sure you've got Zombie Green? They look like a good match for Bronze.
    Where are you placing the tray in the oven? Do not put it too close to the heating element as too high a temp will cause the colour to darken. How sure are you that the temp is correct?

  5. #10665
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    Quote Originally Posted by dikman View Post
    You sure you've got Zombie Green? They look like a good match for Bronze.
    Where are you placing the tray in the oven? Do not put it too close to the heating element as too high a temp will cause the colour to darken. How sure are you that the temp is correct?
    It's a small oven, I did what glockfan told me and covered them this time. They come out pretty good.

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  6. #10666
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    That's better....
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  7. #10667
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avenger442 View Post
    Has anyone used this to resize the cartridge cases? I know there are spray lubes to do this. Just wondering if someone has experimented with Aqualube for that particular use.

    I did about 200 .223 cases. had one stuck.
    have also done a couple of kgs of .223 RCBS 55 gr at a BHN of 14-16. No hitches in sizing and GC seating
    "...Some days its rocket science, and some days it just zinc..."

  8. #10668
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanep View Post
    It's a small oven, I did what glockfan told me and covered them this time. They come out pretty good.

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    shanep
    They look much better and closer to correct colour.
    Finish seems a little granular, that is normally caused by over shake coating for too long.
    Once you add coating mixture, shake coat quickly and for just long enough to use up coating, (10-15 seconds).
    If coating becomes tacky, it will start to start sticking and produces such finish.
    During drying and baking, these type of surfaces will not flow out smooth.

    The other way a rough finish may occur is the coated alloy was just not quite baked long enough.
    When re-coating an under cured coating, the solvent starts to dissolve/strip off previously under cured coating, and this will form a rough finish.
    If this all is finally baked the coating can produce such a granular finish.

    Next step is simply to size one or two, this will take off surface lumps and should leave a glassy finish without the body of the coating being removed.

    Do not be concerned if you over bake, and if colour changes. The coating has been baked for days at 200C, it turns out Black but coating performs well.

  9. #10669
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanep View Post
    It's a small oven, I did what glockfan told me and covered them this time. They come out pretty good.

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    that is much better shanep! the color is poping good.

  10. #10670
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    shanep
    They look much better and closer to correct colour.
    Finish seems a little granular, that is normally caused by over shake coating for too long.
    Once you add coating mixture, shake coat quickly and for just long enough to use up coating, (10-15 seconds).
    If coating becomes tacky, it will start to start sticking and produces such finish.
    During drying and baking, these type of surfaces will not flow out smooth.

    The other way a rough finish may occur is the coated alloy was just not quite baked long enough.
    When re-coating an under cured coating, the solvent starts to dissolve/strip off previously under cured coating, and this will form a rough finish.
    If this all is finally baked the coating can produce such a granular finish.

    Next step is simply to size one or two, this will take off surface lumps and should leave a glassy finish without the body of the coating being removed.

    Do not be concerned if you over bake, and if colour changes. The coating has been baked for days at 200C, it turns out Black but coating performs well.
    Thanks they were patchy, in going to cast some this week and give it another run. Im getting closer,

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  11. #10671
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockfan View Post
    that is much better shanep! the color is poping good.
    Thank you for all your help

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  12. #10672
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockfan View Post
    something to consider is covering the elements with the crumb catcher that comes with the oven. that way, you're getting a radiant heat which is what is needed with hi tek. i've seen that the direct heat on the boolits can ''burn''' the color after less that the recommanded cooking time.
    I have been using IR thermometers (yes plural) to measure actual boolits. When the oven thermometers (yes,plural) read 200C,the bullets actually hit 220C. That must be because of direct heat.

    I'm on my third oven now,the same is still happening. So I have adjusted to 190C. The latest big household oven has strong fans and there really is a cyclone in there. Still the bullets get hotter than the oven.

  13. #10673
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    My converted Wall oven is set at 200Deg C. The bullets (after 71/2 minutes) are 204 Deg C as shot by an IR Therm.
    The oven has a heating element around the internal fan and the over head element working. 2 trays. one on the bottom shelf and another on the middle shelf. If I use the top shelf, I get darkened bullets.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  14. #10674
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post

    If I use the top shelf, I get darkened bullets.
    This makes sense and it's definitely worth trying a lower shelf. My slightly overbaked bullets are perfectly good,though. I messed up pretty good with underbaking when I started this (not doing the acetone test properly),now I rather overbake a little.

  15. #10675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    I have been using IR thermometers (yes plural) to measure actual boolits. When the oven thermometers (yes,plural) read 200C,the bullets actually hit 220C. That must be because of direct heat.

    I'm on my third oven now,the same is still happening. So I have adjusted to 190C. The latest big household oven has strong fans and there really is a cyclone in there. Still the bullets get hotter than the oven.
    Petander,
    If your bullets are coming out hotter that oven temperature it may be due to cycling effect of thermostats.
    Some thermostats are able to cycle plus or minus 50C. They turn on 50 below set temperature and turn off 50 above set temperature. Essentially this is supposedly averaging at 200C.
    If your thermostat is working OK, if the heating elements are not directly fanned to remove heat from them, than I suspect infra Red heat may be causing over heating of the metal.
    It is not logical that oven air is at 200C but bullets are hotter.
    If it is not the thermostat losing control, then it must be Infra Red energy causing over heating.

  16. #10676
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    Hi, I have a question. I have used HI TEC for 9mm,40 and 45acp with great results. I just starting casting 165 gr 7mm bullets with a gas check design. Can I,Should I use the gas check after coating the bullets or forget the gas check. Thanks!

  17. #10677
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    I coat 145 gr RCBS SIL and 160 gr SAECO for the 7x57. 2 coats of HITEK, check with actone rub and smash test , then seat GC and size.
    HTH
    "...Some days its rocket science, and some days it just zinc..."

  18. #10678
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcslotcar View Post
    Hi, I have a question. I have used HI TEC for 9mm,40 and 45acp with great results. I just starting casting 165 gr 7mm bullets with a gas check design. Can I,Should I use the gas check after coating the bullets or forget the gas check. Thanks!


    rcslotcar
    That is a great question. There are many variables. First, what alloy are you using?
    Second, what velocity are you expecting to achieve?
    Gas checks are normally used to prevent Gas cutting of Lead especially with hot powders.
    Coating before or after gas check will work.
    Can you supply more details please.

  19. #10679
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    i'm using coww's with a very little tin added, brindle hardness around 19-20. Powder I've been using for Sierra 168gr bt hp is 68 gr of Hodgon 4831sc. This has been my max load from my Remington 700 which is very accurate. I was thinking to load down to about 60-63 gr for cast coated bullets maybe around 2500-2600fps. Again I haven't shot any cast 7mm yet, just trying to get knowledge before I put components together. I haven't shot "any" cast bullets thru my rifles (223-270-308-338win).
    Last edited by rcslotcar; 10-03-2018 at 02:40 AM.

  20. #10680
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcslotcar View Post
    Hi, I have a question. I have used HI TEC for 9mm,40 and 45acp with great results. I just starting casting 165 gr 7mm bullets with a gas check design. Can I,Should I use the gas check after coating the bullets or forget the gas check. Thanks!
    I would try with and without gas checks just to see how each perform, There are a few variables as others have said but velocity nearly always plays a part. I use gas checks on all my rifle loads except for my 357 max Martini which will not shoot as well with checks and prefers plain base. I would check that the checks fit after coating and fit them after coating especially if you use Aluminium checks as the coating does not stick well them but sticks well to copper. Regards Stephen

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check