sierra1911, I have found that an oven temperature of 400 degrees is right on the edge of causing the coating to become brittle. I find 375 degrees works much better. This also will protect the coating from overheating if your oven decides to raise the temperature on its own, which has happened to me. This is why I am going to have PID controllers for my 3 ovens instead of just one like now. Parts are on the slow boat from Chine, literally. LOL.
Ausglock, I'll have to check with Donnie to see if he has some of the superhard resin as I shoot mostly rifles and have already done some testing.
Leadman. He wouldn't have any yet. It is still being tested.
I was going to test more today, But my eldest Son was taken to hospital with chest pains, so I took the wife for a quick trip to the hospital in Lismore. (About 2 hours from us).
So testing next Sunday...
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
picked up 1500 158gr .357 SWCs at a swap meet this weekend for a song and a dance. The boolets look fine but the lubing is anything but acceptable.
Can marginally lubed boolets be coated or are clean/fresh boolets required?
Degrease them well and they can be coated. Grease or wax prevent proper bonding of the coating to the bullet.
Last edited by btroj; 10-27-2013 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Typo
I'd heat them up in your oven at lube melt temperature and melt off most of the lube. Then give them a good acetone bath, several times. I had good results doing this.
I imagine a good boil in water would have near all lube float to top.
Just received my order of red copper and black coating from Byron at Gateway Bullets and cant wait to get going! He was very helpful in guiding my through the process... Good guy! He also said he is having problems with his web site. So if you need something and the site is not working, email him. gatewaybullets@yahoo.com or call 636-629-5555
Last edited by Rylos; 10-28-2013 at 01:48 PM.
I have tried several times to remove the wax lube and coat with HT. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. I tried many types of degreasers but was thinking that maybe after the boolits look clean just put them in the oven for 10 minutes at 375 degrees to burn off any remaining residue.
Leadman
Mineral Turps probably is as good as you can get to dissolve the waxy type lubes and is cheap.
It is a simple case of soaking, and then drain and spray rinsing through a mesh to wash off any solvent/wax mixture is possibly best way to treat.
However, your efforts may be not worth the trouble.
I am thinking, that wax lubed cast projectiles had been already sized, and so the grainy surfaces are now polished smooth and without grainy surfaces being available, leaves very little surfaces for any coating to get a foothold and stick, as sizing process seals surfaces so it is very difficult to coat without grit blasting or some other way of roughening up surfaces first.
If you solvent wash and burn off residues, it will still leave very slick surface which is not ideal to coat.
Sorry, may be a remelt and recast may be easiest and cheapest option and save lots of headaches.
You haven't got time to surf around the net. get up to your shed and keep mixing coatings. Take your love potion with you.
I'm going to coat a few 100 with the blue/green superhard resin 2. size after the first coat and then apply a second coat to see how they shoot. I find 1 coating then sizing then 2nd coating works great on flat base bullets that may have a but of over-cast on the base.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Hi-Tek, I have given up on trying to clean the boolits of the wax lube then coating. I only have 2,000 or 3,000 left anyway so not a big deal to just remelt of shoot them as is.
The best sucess I had was when I used Purple Power soap as a final cleaner of the boolits. This is a very strong alkyl soap.
Is any of the Super Hard resin headed to the sates soon? I would like to try this in the rifles to see how it works.
Leadman,
Please do not use any strong Alkali type cleaners with Lead or alloys.
It can react with Lead and alloys to start dissolve Lead into the Alkali, which is very unhealthy especially if you get it on your skin.
With super hard resins, we were testing coatings on 92:6:2 alloys.
We have sort of measured hardness of baked coatings against standard coatings. It was determined, and appeared, that the new trial resins were about 20% harder, as hardness tester had less penetration into alloy that was coated with the new test resins.
Smash test and solvent tests seem OK. I am awaiting test results with various guns, and am hoping to get results blogged.
It is hoped, that the additional hardness may help, with using with Cast alloys for some Rifle ammo.
Plans are under way to send some to the US, but even if we send today, it will take weeks by sea to get there.
It is a shame, that Rifle use here is not as prolific as in the US, as it would be much easier to get local tests done first, and then report results.
HI-TEK. I have a great Idea.
You buy me an Omark M44 308 target rifle ( a few available on www.usedguns.com.au) A Leupold 33x scope and rings and a 30 calibre mold and I'll do some rifle coating testing for ya....
Last edited by Ausglock; 10-29-2013 at 04:23 PM.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
send email to BourbonJoe@Im****facedallthetime.com.au
Attach a photo of a bottle of bourbon and the gun you want.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |