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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #10641
    Boolit Master


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    Hi Guys

    I have been following this thread for a long time and have been big supporter of Hi-Tek Joe with Donnie as a vendor here in the states and use their product for about 90% of my bullets.
    I just wanted to say what a awesome companies those guys run and to let it be known how dedicated they are to their product and customers.
    Every year I host a bullet casting seminar in MA (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...Bullet-Seminar) and These guys have donated samples every time.
    I walk the attendees through the preparation and use of the product and pass out the handouts Donnie provides. I feel like the ease of use and the very low investment cost to get started teamed up with the fool proof results have really helped to get people to take the plunge into casting. Without having to figure out what lube works best or flows just right, without having to spend the money on a lube sizer or deal with pan lubing and knowing that this coating will perform every time gives them the confidence to start right away.
    Thank you both for the continued support and giving casters a no nonsense way to coat bullets. Keep up the great work

  2. #10642
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    I cant help but think of the early days when Joe first introduced this coating to the USA, there was so much doubt in the ability of the product, my we have come a long way since those days. What a great product and site to share its use in. regards Stephen

  3. #10643
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    Quote Originally Posted by ioon44 View Post
    One Problem with looking for UN 1090 number is that small containers don't have the UN 1090 number on the can and was probably on the case the small cans were shipped in.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UN_number
    Everywhere I've been, they have no idea what un1090 means. I believe I got the right stuff. Headed to get another mixing container, it ate through the hard plastic one I was trying to use lol. Glad I was standing there.

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  4. #10644
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanep View Post
    Everywhere I've been, they have no idea what un1090 means. I believe I got the right stuff. Headed to get another mixing container, it ate through the hard plastic one I was trying to use lol. Glad I was standing there.

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    In US there must be different label requirements for dangerous goods.
    I would be very cautious about buying solvents from people who simply do not know, as results can be not so good.

    Here, all Acetone Labels have Class 3 DG Hazchem IIYE UN 1090.

    The UN number is an internationally recognised assignment for Acetone and is recognised as having number identity of UN1090.
    If you look up in Google, or other search engines, if you type in UN1090, it will immediately should come up with Acetone.

    Solvent blends, can come under a general category of paint , additives and coatings area, the UN 1263 related materials including paint, lacquer, enamel, stain, shellac solutions, varnish, polish, liquid filler, and liquid lacquer base, or paint related material including paint thinning, drying, removing, or reducing compound.


    If you have Acetone, and it is drying much too fast whilst coating, simply add and premix, about 200mls of denatured Alcohol per one litre of Acetone, and used this solvent mix to make up coating mixture.
    This wont interfere with the Hi-Tek powdered coatings and wont interfere with bonding and drying. If coating then is drying a little slower that required, simply warm air dry to about 45-50C for 15-30 minutes before baking.

  5. #10645
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Cohen View Post
    I cant help but think of the early days when Joe first introduced this coating to the USA, there was so much doubt in the ability of the product, my we have come a long way since those days. What a great product and site to share its use in. regards Stephen
    Stephen & Michael,
    Thank you for kind words.
    It is coming up to the Hi-Tek coating being in the US for 6 years. It really has been well adopted, and was found to actually work. There were a few hiccups, but all sorted.


    I have looked at a survey, and the Hi-Tek is now used in over 30 countries. I am amazed.

    Funny thing is, that locals here, after coating being on the market for 25 years in Aus, I am constantly surprised, that many don't know that it is made in Australia, and they try to buy from US.

  6. #10646
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Honestly... The Sunny Gold is just as good as the TMG gold.
    The Gold 1035 and Old Gold also are just as good.
    If I was buying it, I couldn't justify the extra cost of the TMG...
    hmmm...gold...gold...gooold!!!

  7. #10647
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    Stephen & Michael,
    Thank you for kind words.
    It is coming up to the Hi-Tek coating being in the US for 6 years. It really has been well adopted, and was found to actually work. There were a few hiccups, but all sorted.


    I have looked at a survey, and the Hi-Tek is now used in over 30 countries. I am amazed.

    Funny thing is, that locals here, after coating being on the market for 25 years in Aus, I am constantly surprised, that many don't know that it is made in Australia, and they try to buy from US.
    Hi tek what am I doing wrong? I mixed 20 grams of zombie green to 3.4 oz of pure acetone. Second coat and they don't have the faintest green color. Is there a different ratio for this color? Thanks

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  8. #10648
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockfan View Post
    hmmm...gold...gold...gooold!!!
    There are other Golds as well Aztec Gold, Gold 305, Satin Gold, Solar Gold, Glitter Gold, as you say GOLD GOLD GOLD.

  9. #10649
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanep View Post
    Hi tek what am I doing wrong? I mixed 20 grams of zombie green to 3.4 oz of pure acetone. Second coat and they don't have the faintest green color. Is there a different ratio for this color? Thanks

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    Here's a picture

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  10. #10650
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanep View Post
    Hi tek what am I doing wrong? I mixed 20 grams of zombie green to 3.4 oz of pure acetone. Second coat and they don't have the faintest green color. Is there a different ratio for this color? Thanks

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    How long after mixing did you try and use mixture?
    I suspect, that the stuff was not mixed in enough. Most make it up, and leave it for half an hour, mixing occasionally, and afterwards then take aliquots to coat.

  11. #10651
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanep View Post
    Here's a picture

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    Looks like you only got some resin into the solution mix and not all was dissolved.
    Put one cast into mixing bottle and use it as a rattle to mix, as used in aerosol cans.
    Mix it several times during the half hour.

    The coating advices states, don't rush it, take your time.

    I suggest, that you dry this first well, and bake it. By the time you dry and bake, the mixture used for coating should be mostly mixed in.

  12. #10652
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    How long after mixing did you try and use mixture?
    I suspect, that the stuff was not mixed in enough. Most make it up, and leave it for half an hour, mixing occasionally, and afterwards then take aliquots to coat.
    I waited over 45 minutes, baking my second coat now. Maybe I'm just overly excited and never done it. I'll do 4 coats and we'll see what they look like. I'm putting 5 ml on 5 pounds is that right? Again thanks for helping me.

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  13. #10653
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    you must use 1ml of mixture for 1 pound of boolits. mixture ratio should be a diluted mix like in 120 ml of acetone for 20 grams of powder,or ,like i do ,55 ml of acetone for 10 grams of powder .

    then you must want to swirl the whole batch to make sure all the boolits went in contact with the jiice,but you also must make sure you dump the boolits in the tray still WET....don't wait for the acetone to flash entirely.....when you hear the tumbling sound changing for a muffled sound,it,s too late. i swirl for like 8 to 10 seconds max.

    then,the boolits must be entirely drydrydry before the baking part.boolits shouldn't stick to your fingers at all. i'm using a fan ,then i leave the tray on the oven top to preheat them ; the drying process isn't very long...10 minutes with the fan and the oven top is all it takes for getting the boolits compoletely dry .then, wit MY oven,i bake for 13 minutes at 400f.

    the way i'm doin it,it can't fail.

    it is normal for the 1st layer to be kind of pale during the cooking time.but then,when you pull tem off the oven,you can see the color .

  14. #10654
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockfan View Post
    you must use 1ml of mixture for 1 pound of boolits. mixture ratio should be a diluted mix like in 120 ml of acetone for 20 grams of powder,or ,like i do ,55 ml of acetone for 10 grams of powder .

    then you must want to swirl the whole batch to make sure all the boolits went in contact with the jiice,but you also must make sure you dump the boolits in the tray still WET....don't wait for the acetone to flash entirely.....when you hear the tumbling sound changing for a muffled sound,it,s too late. i swirl for like 8 to 10 seconds max.

    then,the boolits must be entirely drydrydry before the baking part.boolits shouldn't stick to your fingers at all. i'm using a fan ,then i leave the tray on the oven top to preheat them ; the drying process isn't very long...10 minutes with the fan and the oven top is all it takes for getting the boolits compoletely dry .then, wit MY oven,i bake for 13 minutes at 400f.

    the way i'm doin it,it can't fail.

    it is normal for the 1st layer to be kind of pale during the cooking time.but then,when you pull tem off the oven,you can see the color .
    I did exactly that except I think they dried while shaking them. I left them in the oven for twelve minutes. I think it wad to much. They're good, but they look good too me. It'll take some practice, I'm not giving up. I've got more bullets and 500 pounds of lead lol.

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  15. #10655
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanep View Post
    I did exactly that except I think they dried while shaking them. I left them in the oven for twelve minutes. I think it wad to much. They're good, but they look good too me. It'll take some practice, I'm not giving up. I've got more bullets and 500 pounds of lead lol.

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    4 coats, they past all the tests. And are smooth. So I'm just going to keep at it. What do ya'll think?

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  16. #10656
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    Zombie green can be slightly "difficult". even slight overbake can cause colour shift.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  17. #10657
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Zombie green can be slightly "difficult". even slight overbake can cause colour shift.
    Yessir trail and error, I'll get it. They still look cool. I'm going to bake at a lower temperature and shorter intervals. That greagrey won't know the difference. Lol

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  18. #10658
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    shanep I would suggest one thing you should change, I suggest you wear closed footwear as a hot baked bullet between the toes is no joke. Ask how I know. Regards Stephen

  19. #10659
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Cohen View Post
    shanep I would suggest one thing you should change, I suggest you wear closed footwear as a hot baked bullet between the toes is no joke. Ask how I know. Regards Stephen
    Yessir I have that bad habit, have to make myself when I cast. I wear boots all week and you're right. Never thought about a bullet falling. Lol that would suck.

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  20. #10660
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    Only change one thing at a time. Keep your current temp, but reduce the bake time by 1 minute and see how it goes. if still a bit brown, reduce it by 30 seconds.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

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