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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #10721
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
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    I think you r swirling for too long. it looks "grainy"
    Add coating and swirl for like 12 seconds only, then dump them onto the tray to dry.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  2. #10722
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    I think you r swirling for too long. it looks "grainy"
    Add coating and swirl for like 12 seconds only, then dump them onto the tray to dry.
    Yessir, also they're not paying the acetone test.

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  3. #10723
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanep View Post
    Here's the picture.

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    shanep
    Aside from possibly shake coating for too long, you may be using too much coating mixture.
    I say this, as you are having coating flakes that are drying in your coating bucket flaking off, a excess residue remaining, that was not used up coating your projectiles.

    When you add coating mixture, this should dissolve the dry stuff that is in your bucket .


    If you have a build up of coating in your bucket, you can simply add only a little Acetone to your coating bucket with your next lot, then, mix/coat, and this should use up residues left in your coating bucket and be regarded as a first coat/primer.
    Don't worry if it is blotchy and uneven. Simply mix/shake coat to use up solvent and residue, then dump it to dry before it gets tacky.

    If you get it to a tacky stage, don't worry, just add a small amount of Acetone in again, swirl coat, and this time don't swirl coat for as long so that it does not become tacky.


    Some, simply wash out their coating container, and use that for making up coating mixture.

    Please consider, that the coating can be recycled back into use after it has dried. The coating cannot be recycled after it is heat set.

  4. #10724
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    shanep
    Aside from possibly shake coating for too long, you may be using too much coating mixture.
    I say this, as you are having coating flakes that are drying in your coating bucket flaking off, a excess residue remaining, that was not used up coating your projectiles.

    When you add coating mixture, this should dissolve the dry stuff that is in your bucket .


    If you have a build up of coating in your bucket, you can simply add only a little Acetone to your coating bucket with your next lot, then, mix/coat, and this should use up residues left in your coating bucket and be regarded as a first coat/primer.
    Don't worry if it is blotchy and uneven. Simply mix/shake coat to use up solvent and residue, then dump it to dry before it gets tacky.

    If you get it to a tacky stage, don't worry, just add a small amount of Acetone in again, swirl coat, and this time don't swirl coat for as long so that it does not become tacky.


    Some, simply wash out their coating container, and use that for making up coating mixture.

    Please consider, that the coating can be recycled back into use after it has dried. The coating cannot be recycled after it is heat set.
    I started cleaning my bucket, but will do your method instead of just dumping left over residue. I think it was a few different of each, the residue which was just an oversite on my part. Noticed in videos I've watch a dozen time a day their bucket was clean each time. Then I was covering my tray like you had said and I don't believe I was doing a thorough bake, so I uncovered and baby say it every 2 1/2 minutes i'd shake and turn and now they're passing both tests again. So tomorrow I'll cast some more after I shoot some of these to reward myself for my labors. Lol can I size these in my lyman lubrasizer, which will probably get live on them? I don't have a single stage sizer for this bullet other than on my lubrasizer. It might not get any lube on them but if it does will it hurry. Thanks for all your help!!

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  5. #10725
    Quote Originally Posted by shanep View Post
    I started cleaning my bucket, but will do your method instead of just dumping left over residue. I think it was a few different of each, the residue which was just an oversite on my part. Noticed in videos I've watch a dozen time a day their bucket was clean each time. Then I was covering my tray like you had said and I don't believe I was doing a thorough bake, so I uncovered and baby say it every 2 1/2 minutes i'd shake and turn and now they're passing both tests again. So tomorrow I'll cast some more after I shoot some of these to reward myself for my labors. Lol can I size these in my lyman lubrasizer, which will probably get live on them? I don't have a single stage sizer for this bullet other than on my lubrasizer. It might not get any lube on them but if it does will it hurry. Thanks for all your help!!

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    Getting lube on a bullet your going to reload and shoot is no big deal. It's just going to smoke a little. Getting lube on a bullet you intend to re-coat is a problem as it will cause adhesion issues.

  6. #10726
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings View Post
    Getting lube on a bullet your going to reload and shoot is no big deal. It's just going to smoke a little. Getting lube on a bullet you intend to re-coat is a problem as it will cause adhesion issues.
    Thank you, I figured it would be ok.

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  7. #10727
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    You might find that the Lyman Sizer die will tear off some coating. Mine did. The holes where the lube comes out were the problem. That is why I went to Lee sizer dies.
    You should see the coating buildup in my hand swirling bucket. Huge!!!! It is like 1/8" thick around the sides. The machine swirler buckets get cleaned every 10,000 bullets.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  8. #10728
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    You might find that the Lyman Sizer die will tear off some coating. Mine did. The holes where the lube comes out were the problem. That is why I went to Lee sizer dies.
    You should see the coating buildup in my hand swirling bucket. Huge!!!! It is like 1/8" thick around the sides. The machine swirler buckets get cleaned every 10,000 bullets.
    I ordered one last night for the lee sizer. I didn't have one for the lubrasizer.

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  9. #10729
    Boolit Master Grmps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    You might find that the Lyman Sizer die will tear off some coating. Mine did. The holes where the lube comes out were the problem. That is why I went to Lee sizer dies.
    You should see the coating buildup in my hand swirling bucket. Huge!!!! It is like 1/8" thick around the sides. The machine swirler buckets get cleaned every 10,000 bullets.
    But you're not running un-cooked boolits through the sizer are you?

    I prefer NOE sizers, after the initial outlay for the Push Through Size Die Body ($39.95 ) the sizing bushings are $9.75 and the pushrods are $7.50 (only need one per caliber and you can use Lee's. Much larger size selection

    http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=104

  10. #10730
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    What does the jury say,is this acetone wipe test fail or not?

    Seriously overbaked Zombie green,I even gave it another 30 min. My tin rich WW/Monotype Mystery Alloy does this with ZG.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #10731
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    What does the jury say,is this acetone wipe test fail or not?

    Seriously overbaked Zombie green,I even gave it another 30 min. My tin rich WW/Monotype Mystery Alloy does this with ZG.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm new to this but am also using zombie green. I'd say yes but not bad, and they overcooked. They say zg is hard to get. I'm still trying cause either they're burnt or grainy.

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  12. #10732
    Boolit Mold pkchwy's Avatar
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    I currently use a Magma Star Lube-sizer to do my lubbing and now that i have just used the high tec coating on a heap of projectiles. i wanted to now if i can use my Magma Star Lube-sizer with out lube to side the projectiles or do i need to buy other equipmnt

  13. #10733
    Boolit Master Grmps's Avatar
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    shanep -- I think you need to re-start at the beginning

    burnt is from over baking, grainy is from tumbling to long.

    Have a couple boolits in the bottle you mix the solution in
    after you mix the solution, let it rest/incorporate for at least 30 min
    rule of thumb, use 1 mil solution to 1 pound of boolits, less in the first time around, - this helps with adhesion (make sure you adjitate the solution well immediately prior to measureing and adding to the boolits (the solution settles fast)


    1) confirm oven temperature: Place a tested oven thermometer in the middle of the shelf you bake on and adjust the oven until the thermometer reads 400į
    2) they look grainy to me, -- you are tumbling too long -- Shake/swirl 15 – 20 seconds MAX if the sound changes, you've gone to long. it/s OK to dump them damp
    3) make sure they are COMPLETELY dry before baking dry in front of a fan (it helps to warm them on a grate on top of your oven for 12 min before baking)



    4) bake for a full 12 min (cover the bottom of your oven with something that retains heat I use ceramic BBQ briquettes, some use firebrick or chunks of metal -- this helps the oven get back to temperature faster.
    Last edited by Grmps; 10-08-2018 at 02:51 PM.

  14. #10734
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    Shanep, do they pass the smash test?

  15. #10735
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    Quote Originally Posted by dikman View Post
    Shanep, do they pass the smash test?
    At first no, but I bake them longer and that fixed that. I'm probably going to start completely over, remix everything.

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  16. #10736
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    I think that's a good idea. Remember, thin coats! My last failure (some time ago) was due to making the coats too thick. They looked good but flaked badly when flattened, I had to remelt the lot.

    I hadn't coated any for quite a while as I have several thousand coated projectiles stored, but the other day I just felt like doing some casting. I figured I might as well coat them too, so the next day away I went. Two coats of Texas Tea, one batch I did three coats just to see what they looked like but two coats is perfectly functional. Because I experimented with very thin coats they came out slightly splotchy looking but passed the smash test (most important). Another 1120 to add to the collection.

  17. #10737
    Quote Originally Posted by pkchwy View Post
    I currently use a Magma Star Lube-sizer to do my lubbing and now that i have just used the high tec coating on a heap of projectiles. i wanted to now if i can use my Magma Star Lube-sizer with out lube to side the projectiles or do i need to buy other equipmnt
    I use my Star Lubri-Sizer to size my coated bullets. Works great. Mine hasnít seen lube in years.

  18. #10738
    Boolit Mold
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    My reloading shop has an old RCBS sizer for $30 that is all greased up but in complete condition. I'm going to pick it up just to size coated bullets.

  19. #10739
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    The lube holes in the Lyman & RCBS lube sizer's tend to cut the coating on cast bullets. Maybe some one can add more info on this, I size all my coated bullets on a Star sizer with the lube arm removed.

  20. #10740
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    Quote Originally Posted by ioon44 View Post
    The lube holes in the Lyman & RCBS lube sizer's tend to cut the coating on cast bullets. Maybe some one can add more info on this, I size all my coated bullets on a Star sizer with the lube arm removed.
    I’ve come across this issue with another brand of sizing die, the lube holes were removing thin lines of coating. I used a small cotton wad with some metal / chrome polish, same stuff you use to shine mag wheels. Used a drill and polished the die similar to honing out a bore but only polishing. Also ran drill in reverse. Didn’t need much at all just enough to remove any burrs or sharp edges. The finish on the projectiles was so much better and no more scratches

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check