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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #9841
    Boolit Master
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    Blessed are those who mourn,for they shall be comforted.
    Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!

  2. #9842
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    Hi Avenger,
    I do not think that you hijacked this conversations. I am sure that all who contributors really are upset about such family crisis matters and would not consider any ill feelings towards your posts.
    I always place family first and most important, .......Coatings....... it can wait.
    I second Joe's comment, you look after yourself and do what you need to do.

  3. #9843
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    Quick 11 round group with my latest batch out of a shadow 2. At about 18 yards off hand.

    Black cherry hi tek. Range scrap from my local indoor range. We mainly shoot commercial cast projectiles.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #9844
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post

    I wonder where those ausssies get all that patience,helping us idiots out time after time?
    Drinking beer helps .

  5. #9845
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    Quick 11 round group with my latest batch out of a shadow 2. At about 18 yards off hand.

    Black cherry hi tek. Range scrap from my local indoor range. We mainly shoot commercial cast projectiles.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    And shoot them bloody well too, I might add.
    You bloody burglar.
    When do you collect your new gun?
    You gunna be at Blacktown for the NSW state titles??
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  6. #9846
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    Quick 11 round group with my latest batch out of a shadow 2. At about 18 yards off hand.

    Black cherry hi tek. Range scrap from my local indoor range. We mainly shoot commercial cast projectiles.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That is great shooting.
    What was the spread on the target?
    What did you shoot it with, & load.

    Now, Ausglock is worried you will take his title.....lol

  7. #9847
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    Good shooting! Glass-like coating!

    Mine shot fine but the barrel looks like this after nine rounds:

    Attachment 219297

    I wonder if I have baked my barrel instead of boolits?


    Your picture is blurred. What coating did you shoot?
    Is your barrel gold or is that coating deposit, cant tell from picture what you are trying to show.

  8. #9848
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    And shoot them bloody well too, I might add.
    You bloody burglar.
    When do you collect your new gun?
    You gunna be at Blacktown for the NSW state titles??
    The gun should be on it's way to my dealer by now. My PTA only got sent off last friday though. It's probably 2 weeks away.

    Not going to blacktown this year. It's right in the middle of busy time at work, I can't take the days off either side of the weekend unfortunately.

  9. #9849
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    That is great shooting.
    What was the spread on the target?
    What did you shoot it with, & load.

    Now, Ausglock is worried you will take his title.....lol
    About 2 inches. I didn't really shoot for groups, I was just making sure they were hitting in the right spot with this load. 4 grains of AP70, the projectile is about 127 grains, shot out of a CZ shadow 2. It's a 130 grain mihec mold.

  10. #9850
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    Sorry bout the colour,it's just a backlight.

    Attachment 219301

    Green, normal bake twice using Ausglock instructions above. .358. No crimp,no shave (38 S&W expander).

    These didn't smell much plastic though. Slightly overbaked. Just wondering if I have managed to get coating stick in the barrel somehow.

    Thanks for clarification.
    Can you wipe out the residue, or is it bonded to bore?

    If coating is bonded to bore, that coating was not cured. Heat will and can re-activate not correctly cured coating, and whilst it is reacting/crosslinking with heat from powder and gasses, it becomes very sticky. At that point, it sticks and welds to most metals. After that, it is very difficult to remove as it becomes bonded and inert and not affected by cleaners or solvents.

    A fully cured coating will not melt, or become sticky or bond with other surfaces. It is very inert and will tolerate heat, and solvents, and wont become sticky or re-dissolve.
    I am not completely clear what you are advising with this post. Can you please elaborate with a little more detail?
    You seem to be advising some very strange results I have never seen before.

  11. #9851
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    So far I have been very lucky with not getting any coating bonded to the barrel. this may be off topic but I don't do anything special... except... my cleaning solvent of choice is Ed's Red that I make with lanolin in it. Ed's red has ATF as the real oil in the mix.. but leave out everything but Acetone and ATF (mixed 50/50) and what you have is one of the best penetrating oils you can get. Doing creep tests on rusty nuts/bolts shows how well this works..

    Now.. this is a theory so bear with me.... I think the penetrating aspect of the Ed's Red gets into the pores of the metal... I don't think anything on the planet can stick to the oil part of that. I came to this conclusion years ago using conventional lube/size bullets and getting the occasional leaded barrel and of course burn rings on cylinders... soaking in ER overnight made this stuff brush right out.

    If you don't want the mess and potential fumes problems of ER then there is Kroil.. it is expensive but smells a LOT better LOL... It does not take a lot and once the pores are 'treated' by normal regular cleaning.. cleaning seems to get easier every time.

    lazs

  12. #9852
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    Petander, have you determined what that is in your barrel yet?
    Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!

  13. #9853
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    I have only ever used Hoppes No.9 solvent for all my guns.
    But when I was using wax lubed bullets, I also has a Lewis Lead remover kit.
    It's not needed these days. the coated bullets keep the cleaning down to 1 patch of solvent.
    Even the comp on my TruBor stays clean when running 125gn SWC at 1400 fps.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  14. #9854
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    Thats pretty good. Mine gets full pretty quick with blackwidows so ive switched to tigersharks.

  15. #9855
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    Hey Ausglock, Seems like I remember a post of yours where you bent the blades of a fan in a convection oven to get more air flow. If true , looking at the fan from the back which way did you bend them?
    Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!

  16. #9856
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    Thats pretty good. Mine gets full pretty quick with blackwidows so ive switched to tigersharks.

    What is or who is Tigersharks?

  17. #9857
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    What is or who is Tigersharks?
    Tigershark projectiles. They are electroplated with copper like frontier projectiles. I use these in my open gun and cast lead in everything else.

    https://tigersharkballistics.com.au/

  18. #9858
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansedgli View Post
    Tigershark projectiles. They are electroplated with copper like frontier projectiles. I use these in my open gun and cast lead in everything else.

    https://tigersharkballistics.com.au/
    Thanks for information.
    If they are Copper plated, what happens to the Copper deposits in the bore?
    Do you know, that you can coat, even using just a single coat to lube that Copper and reduce Copper fouling?

  19. #9859
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    I didn't know that. I am not sure I would bother unless I can get a bigger oven.

    I am happy to clean the barrel but chipping the lead out of my compensator was a chore and a half.

    I'm curious as to why Ausglock's doesn't lead vs the other projectiles I've used. I thought they were all the same. Maybe the final bullet sizing is different.

  20. #9860
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    I haven't heard great things about tigersharks. They are copper plated, just like a FMJ and look awesome. Some ranges will not let you shoot them as they feel it is a jacket, even though the "jacket" is very thin. For the range i shoot at, we can't use jacketed projectiles on steel targets for obvious reasons, potential ricochets.

    A guy i know tried some out with a mate of his and would get 4 in the same hole, then there was a flier. They measured the projectiles and found the sizing was inconsistent, hopefully just a bad batch, but they were not impressed. He now uses frontiers now, same plating but very accurate.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check