simple Hi-Tek coating

[glockfan]

I agree with your premise. Uneven coating would throw the lead core of the bullet off center with the barrel slightly. One of the basics of long range shooting is that you want the bullet centered with the barrel. Guys that shoot those 1000 yard shots trim brass necks and other things to help this. An uneven coating would have the effect of starting the lead core off center with the barrel.

I'm going back to rifle after this. The plan is to rework some Winchester brass with the goal of getting 2" or under groups at 200 yards (longest range I have access to). Will be using the Hi Tek coated bullets. Also want to try something Joe has said several times that Hi Tek one coat, while not as pretty, will not lead the barrel. If it will protect at pressures producing 2700 fps that will impress me.

honestly if i can run away with only one layer while not getting any leading , i'm a starter. i don't care the round is pretty or not. all i want is a boolit that will leaves 0 lead in my barrel .

the only factor i'm still not sure about is water quenching ; of course, like many, i'm water quenching to add to the hardness level of my boolits, but i hear quenching can contaminate the boolits to the point where hi tek doesn't work correctly. not sure but i'm guessing that if the water is exempt of contaminants,it shouldn't be a problem........this being a grey zone to me .

i'm also wondering if the baking part in the hi tek process may bring some more hardness to my boolits. i know heat treating pros and cons is an eternal debate among the casting community,but if in fact heat treating has the same effect on the hardness than water quenching, then i don't see the point of it anymore because the baking process has the same effect than water quenching.

Your right. It was a Ruger GP 100 with six inch barrel. I've had very good results with the Rugers. I have had three of their hand guns that will shoot better than I can. The guy that owns the range near my house said the 45 auto was better than his Sig. He is a pistol guy, instructor and a competition shooter. I also carry one for EDC. End of add.

i never owned a revolver.i'm mostly in semi autos, but if i had to own one, it would be this one.



with S&W, one must pick the right frame (n,j,k,a) for how hot you intend to load .

with ruger it is simple. the light stuff for the SP101's,and the rest has to get shot by the GP series.

i«,m also appealed by the red hawk series in .357 as well.


i know one day i will own one of them ruger tanks....

[Ausglock]

Rrrrrrr....RRevvvvvv....Revvooooo... I can't even say it...
I'll stick with the STI, Para, Kimber and Glock.
They all love HITEK coated pills.

[dikman]

It's easy, Trev, just follow me.....reee-vol-ver. See? Not that hard is it.
I just bought a couple of Ruger Vaquero's (in .357) beautiful guns, built like tanks. I guess I'm the opposite to you, while I can appreciate the design and mechanical ingenuity in auto's, I love reee-vol-vers!

I really should make some boolits with just one coat to try them out, but every time I'm coating I just keep automatically doing two coats .

[eljefeoz]

It's easy, Trev, just follow me.....reee-vol-ver. See? Not that hard is it.
I just bought a couple of Ruger Vaquero's (in .357) beautiful guns, built like tanks. I guess I'm the opposite to you, while I can appreciate the design and mechanical ingenuity in auto's, I love reee-vol-vers!

I really should make some boolits with just one coat to try them out, but every time I'm coating I just keep automatically doing two coats .

I have a heap of RCBS 145 Gr Sil for my 7x57 loaded up with a single coat. Look a bit mongrel , but...

[glockfan]

Rrrrrrr....RRevvvvvv....Revvooooo... I can't even say it...
I'll stick with the STI, Para, Kimber and Glock.
They all love HITEK coated pills.

LOLOL....Trevor...i felt just like it not so long ago. till i started to school myself about the pros and cons ,and as i'm getting older,i'm starting to develop a certain taste for bullseye shooting like the NRA bullseye shooting class where guys are seeking 5 shots groups inside 1 moa at 25 yards. this is the perfect job for revos.


the only part i know i might have to adapt is the grip: there's no way you can hold
a revo like a semi auto; the blast exiting the rear of the cylinder might be a super great reminder about the fact the support hand has no business covering the left side of the barrel LOL!!

sure enough the rugers may get criticized for the lack of finish lol...but not for the lack of reliability and endurance: they're built like tanks. my reflexion is now that every gun owner should own at least one revo. i was browsing the S&W website,then the ruger one......sure S&W has some nicely pimped revos to offer with the V-comp and weighted barrels and all that, but the ruger's minimalism is what i like: no bling, just a revolver built like a tank that can shoot hot ammo all day long haha.


i'm waiting for my second standard class CZ tac sport in 40 to be delivered to me , then i'm resuming shopping for a 4.2 GP100 match champion in .357

[Avenger442]

I guess I hijacked the conversation with the talk about the Rugers.

Glockfan
Eight rounds in a 357 magnum revolver like the new Red Hawk is a tempting gun. But I can't buy another gun until I sell my two old Browning designed Remington semi auto shotguns. And I have been warned by the wife "no more meetings in the parking lot at the local Cracker Barrel with the buyer". Seems she deems this too dangerous. So I guess can't use Armslist like I normally do. Anybody need a couple of early 1900 model 11 shotguns? I think both have adjustable chokes one a Lyman. But would have to check them again.

[HI-TEK]

I have a heap of RCBS 145 Gr Sil for my 7x57 loaded up with a single coat. Look a bit mongrel , but...

Just wondering, how the Aqualube 5000 worked out? Any news good or bad???

[eljefeoz]

Just wondering, how the Aqualube 5000 worked out? Any news good or bad???

Joe, I trialled it as case lube and the .223 cases zipped through the sizing dies with no hitch. Have sprayed the internals of all my dies with it. A bit of a glitch with the new (old) .223 RCBS mould and am waiting to get a bit of milling done before I use the Northern Smelters Hardball alloy in it. I’ll be pouring some 9.3 for a Mate soon, with same alloy and hope to size them with the He’s keen on running them at 2100fps for big game club comp. Hopefully a hard alloy and Texas tea should help.

[Grmps]

eljefeoz , if you don't use the Aqualube 5000 regularly, clear the tip after each use or it will harden and plug up

[HI-TEK]

eljefeoz , if you don't use the Aqualube 5000 regularly, clear the tip after each use or it will harden and plug up

You are correct. The blocking seems to be worse when the diluted working mix is too strong.
When making up working mix for a spray bottle, use about 5mls of the Aqualube into about 1 litre of denatured Alcohol, (that is plenty). Use very sparingly.
This is all that is required for lubing, and reduces possibility of nozzle plugging as well.

[eljefeoz]

0.3ml of aqualube in 100ml Methylated spirit is my current dilution.
I just checked the spray bottle and all is fine.Thanks for the heads up people.

[Avenger442]

Joe
Must compliment you and your company on looking after us guys that value a quality product that can be used very sparingly and have great results. I was trained by my Dad to be a very thrifty person. Not cheap but knowing where and how to spend your money. And it is refreshing to see a company that doesn't set you up to spend more money than necessary for their product. A condition that I have seen lately all too often. Especially with insurance companies. Nationwide is really only on their side. In fact your product actually forces you to use it sparingly. If you coat too thick it causes a problem. And now I learn that if you don't use another product sparingly, Aqualube, it will also cause a problem. Keep this up we all appreciate it.

[HI-TEK]

Joe
Must compliment you and your company on looking after us guys that value a quality product that can be used very sparingly and have great results. I was trained by my Dad to be a very thrifty person. Not cheap but knowing where and how to spend your money. And it is refreshing to see a company that doesn't set you up to spend more money than necessary for their product. A condition that I have seen lately all too often. Especially with insurance companies. Nationwide is really only on their side. In fact your product actually forces you to use it sparingly. If you coat too thick it causes a problem. And now I learn that if you don't use another product sparingly, Aqualube, it will also cause a problem. Keep this up we all appreciate it.

Hello Avenger 442,
Thank you much for your kind words. Most appreciated.
With Coatings, over use is simply a waste, as a well prepared thin coats will work in most instances just fine. I find it difficult to understand why people want to apply thick coats despite all the results being published with successful use with thin coats. The old saying is, a little goes a long way, and if it works, don't waste it.
With Aqualube 5000, the stuff is a very slippery material that requires minimal amounts to work well. I know it is a very expensive product, and I am aware of that being a problem, and so I try to advise people not to waste it, as very very little amounts that is required works well, and despite it being expensive to buy as a concentrate, it really ends up costing very little in use, and producing a lot of great results.
I really cannot recommend to people to use excess amounts of what we supply, as it is very counter productive, and not good for the long term.
The current problem with the Aqualube is, that prices for this material has escalated at alarming rates, and now it is in short supply from us, as I am concerned about this product ending up far too expensive as is, and may be, we will be forced to eventually face a decision to not produce it. Sad really.
Thanks again for your post.
FOOTNOTE The Aqualube 5000 will not go off, as a concentrate or as a diluted mix in denatured Alcohol.. The concentrate must be prevented from freezing as this affects suspension stability.

[Grmps]

If I understood Joe correctly, HiTek is a stain, not a paint.
Paints sit on the surface
Stains permeate the surface filling the pores (in the lead)

In most cases, 1 coat will supply the lubrication needed but is not attractive to look at

2 coats guarantee the required lubrication and is aesthetically pleasing.

[HI-TEK]

If I understood Joe correctly, HiTek is a stain, not a paint.
Paints sit on the surface
Stains permeate the surface filling the pores (in the lead)

In most cases, 1 coat will supply the lubrication needed but is not attractive to look at

2 coats guarantee the required lubrication and is aesthetically pleasing.

Grmps
Right on...
However, you do need enough being applied to work OK.
From feed back, over years, about 1.5 to 2 thou of Hi-Tek is enough for most uses. Some like to use more, that is OK, as long as it does not end up causing problems. And of course, pretty is always more important ...... lol

[eljefeoz]

Gday fellas,
I found some .314" jacketed SN bullets for the .303 ( bit of an odd ball, as the usual dia is .312") which I am planning to coat with Hitek (single ,leprous coat) and use in my 7.62x39 cadet.It has a .303/.313 " B-G bbl and i'm hoping to use them in the subsonic mode.Am thinking, Hitek coating should help me reduce the shot start initiation pressure for the slight, 1 thou oversize. Any advice?
Cheers

[marky123]

I'm having another go......
I moved house,I was only 100m from the sea when I tried HT previously,I think the humidity killed the HT.
Today its an Rh reading of 31% at 34C.
Still using the swaged projectiles.
Will report
MARK

[HI-TEK]

I'm having another go......
I moved house,I was only 100m from the sea when I tried HT previously,I think the humidity killed the HT.
Today its an Rh reading of 31% at 34C.
Still using the swaged projectiles.
Will report
MARK

How are you doing Marky 123?
Just a couple of comments.
Sea mists, have a great amount of salts containing mist coming off the Ocean. This mist, that contains salts can cause problems, as when water dries off, the salty residue is very Hygroscopic and drying is a real problem.
Using Swaged projectiles can also be a problem in two ways.
One, to swage Lead alloy, normally a lube is used for extrusion. That in itself will cause adhesion problems as lubes cannot be totally removed from alloy surfaces..
Second, the Swaging produces a very slick sealed surface, and coatings will find it difficult to stick.
Now that you are in a different area, it will be interesting to see how your coating has gone.

[Ausglock]

And follow the directions this time.

[marky123]

Ah the English sense of humour