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Thread: My fix for a bad trigger on a CVA Pistol

  1. #21
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch-1 View Post
    Dean D, Do you have any pictures of the assembly put back together but outside of the gun? And compared to the old trigger.

    That isn't possible with this conversion. The trigger and guard are now entirely separate.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  2. #22
    Boolit Mold Shantyman's Avatar
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    Fantastic job.i plan on reworking the trigger on my old Cva... This helped a lot. Currently my trigger has a lot of play and sits far back. I never thought of just recutting the back

  3. #23
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    That's a lot of work for something that can be fixed by a $12 adjustable tumbler.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrontierMuzzleloading View Post
    That's a lot of work for something that can be fixed by a $12 adjustable tumbler.
    Guess it depends on if you want to spend money or not. I have done enough of these conversions over the years, I can do it in under an hour, and not have a mechanical part that can fail. Not to mention you would play hell trying to find an adjustable tumbler for most locks. Better to do it right, rather than half assed.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    When I first looked at your trigger I missed the obvious change in geometry.

    I have one I have not shot in a long time because of the trigger. I'm thinking that first I am just going to move the pivot point back and get some/enough mechanical advantage by the fulcrum principle.
    Amendments
    The Second there to protect the First!

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TCLouis View Post
    When I first looked at your trigger I missed the obvious change in geometry.

    I have one I have not shot in a long time because of the trigger. I'm thinking that first I am just going to move the pivot point back and get some/enough mechanical advantage by the fulcrum principle.
    That will not solve the problem.The pivot MUST go higher.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  7. #27
    Banned bigted's Avatar
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    great write up and pictorial. it raises a bunch of more questions for me and other firearms. fantastic. THANKS.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    This is a really old thread but in case someone comes to visit - heres another CVA fix -
    They made what I call long sear and short sear locks - I have fixed several of the long sear ones - they are just poor design and what happens is the long flimsy toe of the sear bends and gets to snagging up in the half cock notch - the lock malfunctions and if the shooter persists with it breaks the end off the sear. Take the lock apart and put the sear in a vice clean it down and use an oxy welding torch to first bend the sear tip back to its correct position then while its still hot fill the curve from nose of sear back to the boss around the mounting screw hole with brass filler rod - once its cooled out you then fit the reinforced sear until it just has clearance around the tumbler - that will take a little work but once its done that sear should last a good while - I have rescued several of these wrecked long sear locks (dont know why they built them like it - they also made a short sear model that works ok) - my picture is a closeup of the sear and tumbler / bridle of a CVA missouri / hawken - shouClick image for larger version. 

Name:	cva lock fix.jpg 
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ID:	196220ld be able to see the join between brass filler and the original steel.
    Joe
    Last edited by indian joe; 06-26-2019 at 06:32 PM.

  9. #29
    In Remembrance / Boolit Grand Master Boaz's Avatar
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    Nice work reducing the trigger pull ! Thanks for sharing .
    No turning back , No turning back !

  10. #30
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    Boaz ---maybe I didnt explain this well - its not about reducing trigger pull!! - this is a repair fix for a stuffed CVA lock - the end of that long sear bends until it interferes with the mechanism and catches in the half cock notch as the lock fires - either fix it before it breaks completely or buy a new replacement lock from L & R (U$180) - if you go back and study Beroen's pictures you can see the sear on that lock is already started to bend upwards - its a cheaper lock for single trigger and has no bridle to hold the parts in alignment - there is a small screw above the sear notch that serves to reduce sear engagement and lighten the trigger pull (some fellers have not figured that out) - for double set trigger you must have a fly in the tumbler. My fix is to repair the bent sear and reinforce it with extra metal so it dont bend again - then the repair is contoured to just clear the tumbler as it rotates - no effect on trigger pull.

  11. #31
    Boolit Bub Nit Wit's Avatar
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    Can you post pictures again, they are gone!
    Thanks
    Nit Wit

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nit Wit View Post
    Can you post pictures again, they are gone!
    Thanks
    Nit Wit
    My pictures below
    Go to Beroen's post no 8 for pics of the pistol


    can see how the sear assembly is straight /flat on the bottom after the repair and can see the join line where brass filler was used
    Click image for larger version. 

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    In this pic of the pistol lock can see where the sear nose has already started to bend upwards - wont be long before that one breaks or needs my fix doing

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by indian joe; 05-30-2019 at 09:49 AM.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freightman View Post
    Thanks I now have a project before hunting season.
    This is sticky material.
    Think you could shrink the pictures and post them here? Photo-junk it doesn’t show the pics.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check