HFPC Boolits..Piglet Method

[docmagnum357]

Huge globs of color were why I went to the mixer. Much, much more even when the stuff is allowed to spin and tumble in rectangular "drum". We'll see if the black is a problem in my barrel. I also have yellow and it looked like a bag of heck when I tried to do it by hand, too. I am going to try it next.

[prickett]

Up it to 12 - 20 bhn no more leading.

Yeah, I was very successful doing WW with HF black paint. I was hoping I could use soft lead too. That way we wouldn't be at the mercy of finding WW (which are getting harder and harder to find). If straight lead worked, that'd mean we could use ANY alloy.

Oh well, I'm still a fan of HFPC. Just need to use hard enough alloy. I haven't heard whether any of the other methods work with soft lead or not (e.g. HI-TEK, sprayed PC, or Klass Kote).

[popper]

I'm using 1-2% Sb only in 40@5 gr 231.

[TES]

Oh and I'm not going to be purchasing any reloads from the local reload man....got a 3221 (double charge)FPS on a round today (plated).. that got my attention!

[Skip62]

The mixer drum has a three arms coming from a central hub. All I did was take the drum off and drill some holes that work with the rectangular bucket. I am not really good with the cell phone camera thing, but I will try to post a picture of the whole rig.

I haven't shot any yet, and I get mixed reports about how they work with Black ( or any ) Harbor Freight Powder paint. I will just have to try it and see.

I will be doing two coats, and maybe three. One coat does not really look very good.

ok, I get the idea, no need for pictures. Thank you.

[Skip62]

Huge globs of black.

When sized the black went glossy under friction. Matt on top. Barrel was just gunked up period. It was worse than cleaning moly out of my barrel.

Hmm, I've had NO issues like that. I shot over 400 rounds this weekend and the barrel has a couple of slight streaks in the barrel that I'm sure will come out with just a dry patch, like it has in the past. I only use 2 to 1, but I really don't think that could be the difference. Interesting. I'm going to switch to better PC anyway, but never the less, interesting.

[bstone5]

I was talking to Powder Buy The Pound today with regard to ordering some powder coat for a non bullet application.

I have tried the Piglet method but the powder does not completely go into solution. The pigment seems to not completely dissolve.

The coating was not very flat and had rough surfaces.

The fellow i was talking with indicated after the power and acetone are mixed and given a few hours to dissolve I might have better results if I were to filter the solution to remove the large particles that do not dissolve.

It was indicate that there might be large particles that could be filtered out by a coffee filter inside a paint filter.

i wanted to pass this along, I was talking with the vendor this morning.

Removing the large particles may result in a smoother flatter coating.

Just A Thought.

[abqcaster]

I don't think the pigment is soluble. It's why it's opaque and not transparent. Filtering out larger chunky particles though is a welcome improvement. I was disappointed at first when I saw that the paint wasn't dissolving but then I realized it was the pigment. After a few swirls of the boolits int the suspension, saw that they were indeed becoming evenly coated and was rather pleased with my first try.

[eveready]

I found that adding the powder coat to the acetone slowly while stirring that the PC would dissolve and not leave any lumps.

[Skip62]

Easiest way to mix is to spend $15 on Rockler paint mixer. It will completely mix HF-PC in very quickly.

http://www.rockler.com/m/product.cfm?page=31675

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

[bstone5]

I mixed 1 part powder coat to 3 parts acetone, let the mixture set one week to allow the powder coat to dissolve in the acetone.
Three coats were applied to the bullets, the cooking time had to be extended 5 minutes for the coating to pass the acetone wipe test.
The bullets were sized with a Lee push through sizing die with the powder coat holding up very well.
The surface was a little rough but the areas on the bullet that contacted the sizing die was smoothed out to be very flat and even.
The final third coat was cooked for 30 minutes to make sure the coating was fully cured.
The finished coating passed the acetone wipe test and the smash test.

This coating should work but the surface is still slightly rough.

[Skip62]

Ok, so I put a bunch of bullets, with the rough texture, into a jar with small steel balls, and started tumbling them. At the half hour mark they didn't look much better. Ran them another 40 minutes, cuz I forgot about them, and they smoothed out pretty good, but it was a little to long and the coating started to come off on some edges. I think with just the right amount of time, and media this could work. Next time I'm going to try just in the tumbler with walnut and see what happens. I've gotten used to the rough texture, and kinda like it, but I'm still positive it can be more aesthetically pleasing. Oh yeah, it's HF flat black.

[bstone5]

Attachment 74426

[Rylos]

I have a couple of concerns about this method. First is the health issue! Using something that is intended for something else without testing sounds like a major health risk. Second is this method does not leave a product that is very appealing to the eye and only a few people seem to be able to replicate piglets results.

[prickett]

Good looking boolits Skip!

I just completed my third generation of Piglet coating and I'm pleased with the results (no clumping, but a slight rough texture). To mix my powder/acetone I use a former jelly jar with lid. Insert ingredients, twist on the lid, and swirl vigorously. I don't think I'm using the 3 to 1 ratio most are using. Mine is probably more like 4 to 1.

[HI-TEK]

I get that. But let me be clear. I have had only good experiences with the Hi Tek coating so NOTHING bad has been said by me about his coating. Just my observations and experiments with PC. I would purchase his coating with out hesitation I just wish there was more in the color department available to us. IE if we could add pigment to do color changes on the fly. I asked if that was available and kinda got the cold shoulder. I think he felt like I was prying for his secrets and that was not my intentions. This has a huge potential market share here and lets face it folks want color options. It would be nice if there was a way to have them. This reason is really the only one that has me experimenting with PC. If I could get even a response from the guy regarding this it would be great.

Tes,
First, if I have given you the wrong impression with my reply, it was not my intention.
I apologise for any irritation caused.
I am very reluctant to add any blogs, as it seems to me that some think, that I am trying to hijack the site.
That is definitely not my intention, and never has been.
Facts are, that I never wanted to be in any blog, however, due to many asking many difficult questions from other users, which could not be answered, I was urged to join, and answer question on technical matters.
My such replies, seemed to upset some folk, as it was suggested I was advertising.
The reality is, that if people were enquiring about the HI-TEK coatings, why then should I ignore requests and start talking about other subjects?
I do not understand the rationale.

To explain clearly about colour matters, over many years, I have found very few that would withstand the Chemistry/heat combination, and would still remain at the original colour intended.
Facts are, that the coating really does not need any colour, but, having said that, because non coloured system still ends up from Yellow Tan to tan brown, when coated on alloy, the film looks golden and you can see the alloy, and still works OK.
The demand for heat and chemically stable components, that not only perform, and is able to overcome technical areas, are a major and expensive challenge, which has been on my research agenda for many years.
I would love to be able to tell you that I will supply you base coat and you make up your own colour, but that would not be realistic nor reasonable.
If any failures occur, I would be then accused by users, wasting money on colours that were unstable or non suitable, and, at worst scenario, if any damage is done to persons or equipment, I would be held liable or responsible.
Both here and in other countries, the demand for an individualistic colour code is always on the agenda, but really it is not totally achievable.
You need to also consider the commercial aspects I have to face, for me to produce a small quantity of a specific colour, that will withstand all requirements is also not commercially viable.
I apologise for placing my blog on someone else's intended site, but I really did want to clear the bad air that seems to have developed.
I will not add nor impose with any further blogs unless requested to do so.
Joe

[gunoil]

Hi-tek: you should come here often and answer anyones ?'s. Not just a few! A lil' long wind'ed, but needed. I use Hi-tek supercoat and love it. 4 or 5 colors is enough, my god, its a bullet for christ sake. Iam not much on color matchin my clothes, pistol, & bullets if ya know what i mean.

Hi-Tek Supercoat has made reloading alot better here in one day. Everthing is clean, even new tubes is my bulletfeeder, others were dingy from alox and other lubes and now my barrels are clean now along with my fingers. I just had a bullet mold custom made with no lube groove. 112gr makarov nose to use in 380 and 9mm. (.355 and .356)

[olaf455]

Stick around Joe, for every person that gives you a hard time there are dozens of us that enjoy and need your input.

[bmiller]

Stick around Joe, for every person that gives you a hard time there are dozens of us that enjoy and need your input.

I agree completely Joe!

[Nickle]

Make me another that wants you to stick around. I'm starting to warm up to the idea, more and more as time goes. I swage and cast, and much more prefer swaging. I think this will be a good alternative for swaged lead boolits, over knurling and normal tumble lubing.