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Thread: HFPC Boolits..Piglet Method

  1. #41
    Boolit Man
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    Just spitballing fere:

    Rather than dumping the Piglet Boolits onto a flat piece of hardware cloth, would dumping them into a rotating mesh basket and letting them dry between coats while tumbling keep them smoother? I'm picturing grabbing an old steel mesh wastebasket, drilling out the bottom, and mounting it horizontally on a low-speed motor - basically a rock tumbler type setup.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xyankeeworkshop View Post
    Just spitballing fere:

    Rather than dumping the Piglet Boolits onto a flat piece of hardware cloth, would dumping them into a rotating mesh basket and letting them dry between coats while tumbling keep them smoother? I'm picturing grabbing an old steel mesh wastebasket, drilling out the bottom, and mounting it horizontally on a low-speed motor - basically a rock tumbler type setup.
    I've wondered the same thing. From what I've seen though, the more I tumble as they dry the rougher they get cuz the choosing is stocking to itself and pulling itself off. So I'm just not sure. I put a second coat on real wet yesterday and didn't shake it much and while it was still wet poured it onto the mesh, more than half came looking pretty smooth, but the others had runs. I'm at a loss without several thin coats. The mesh I'm using isn't ideal, and I'm sure it's contributing to the roughness. I tried to coat it, but it's not taking it to well....

    Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

  3. #43
    Boolit Mold namor_svk's Avatar
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    Today I used Piglet method with DuPond Alesta HR( High Heat Coating) silicon-polymer powder. It dissolve better in acetone then epoxy powders. I used 2 coats and 2 bakes. They are ready to reload.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Will try them next weekend. We will see whats happen with this type of powder coat. Sizing was pretty easy from .359 to .356 for my CZ 85 in 9 luger.

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
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    3 to 1 ratio? They look good!

  5. #45
    Boolit Mold namor_svk's Avatar
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    yes. It seems 2 coats are enough . It is matt black color.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master popper's Avatar
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    OK, now I'm curious. Anybody try dipping & drip dry? Or E-S dipping? With the Alestra mix the drying appears to be the big problem in rough coating, tumbling doesn't give a smooth coat, 2 or 3 required.
    Whatever!

  7. #47
    Yea I think somebody in another thread tried dipping and it did not work.
    They call it "common sense". Why is it so uncommon?

  8. #48
    Boolit Master Skip62's Avatar
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    Ok, so my buddy comes over, uses my powder and racks and oven and buckets...yada...yada...and this was his result.

    after 1 coat
    Click image for larger version. 

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    after 2 coats
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    man they look good. I think that fact that they are only 105 grains helps, but still. Time to him

  9. #49
    Boolit Master



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    Looks like the multiplied!

    EW

  10. #50
    Boolit Master Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edubya View Post
    Looks like the multiplied!

    EW
    LOL, he was already taking them off the mesh when I stopped him for a picture.

    Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

  11. #51
    Boolit Master olaf455's Avatar
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    Has anyone tried this method with rifle at full jacketed velocities and no gas check?
    Sheep Dog
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  12. #52
    Ok I am getting better with the three coat method but they are still splotchy. The alternate method even with one bake and coat just seems to take too long to get the same amount done as the tumble method.

    The alternate method gives great results but will take the hobby caster a lot of time or expense in set up to get rapid results. So I think I am coming to the conclusion that the Hi Tech is....well.....better than PC as far as cosmetics are concerned when the tumble method is used. In order to get the smooth even color in my method; it would take Pumps, conveyors and a decent pizza oven with pass through..(like a quiznos oven). Just not seeing the benefit other than Color choices. Cost is really cheap compared to any other readily available method that is out there.

    Sorry guys just not seeing the real plus from a production stand point. Even if you only do a few 1000 at a time.
    They call it "common sense". Why is it so uncommon?

  13. #53
    Boolit Master
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    Oh no, another Hi-tek commercial! I am getting results with the hi-tek system that I can't replicate with powder coat. Not saying it can't be done, I have not figured it out yet.

  14. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by bmiller View Post
    Oh no, another Hi-tek commercial! I am getting results with the hi-tek system that I can't replicate with powder coat. Not saying it can't be done, I have not figured it out yet.
    The reason I started this thread. I too have not figured it out.

    The key to this is...

    A - application (plus) - solved (all methods)
    B - Heat makes it viscous again (problem) - Unsolved (tumble) - Solved (alternate)
    C - Until cool it stays sticky (problem) - Unsolved (tumble) - Solved (alternate)
    D - Flaky when cured (problem) - Unsolved - (either method including Hi tek)
    E - Coating comes off after being loaded into case and pulled (problem) - Unsolved -(either method including Hi tek)
    F - Coating works to eliminate fouling (solution) - Solved - (all coatings)

    See this is not an easy thing to conclude. I think we need to come up with a standards for testing to see if they all match up or if there is a clear victor.
    They call it "common sense". Why is it so uncommon?

  15. #55
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    TES, do some hi-tek and give us a report or you did already? I cant read all this stuff. I sized and loaded some hi-tek with no problems.

  16. #56
    Pull them after loading. Mine started to flake at the case mouth. No I did not over crimp. Just enough to get it to Lyman spec. (Lyman Manual)
    They call it "common sense". Why is it so uncommon?

  17. #57
    Boolit Master
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    TES, I was having problems with shaving the coating when loading. I solved it by screwing the stem on my seating die the whole way in and setting bullet depth with the die body. Crimp with a final size die.

  18. #58
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    yea, bmiller, i do all my stuff that way now for bout 90 days. Match shooter friend said, lighter crimp, I have dillon final pistol dies and they make it nice and round at top. Its a different crimp than FCD and with micrometer.

    I also do not have bell expander dies, i have step dies, RCBS, & like mrbulletfeeder.net, and others i just turn down on laithe. This way the bullet has a true seat.

    Last edited by gunoil; 06-12-2013 at 09:13 PM.

  19. #59
    Boolit Master
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    Do you run that setup on a Dillon ?

  20. #60
    Boolit Master Skip62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TES View Post
    Ok I am getting better with the three coat method but they are still splotchy. The alternate method even with one bake and coat just seems to take too long to get the same amount done as the tumble method.
    Just how splotchy are they? My PC isn't smooth, but it's just a little texture. The gloss look of the HI-TEK bullets(which I have sitting on my bench) aren't evenly coated and they were done by Bayou Bullets. My Klass Kote bullets are more even than the Bayou's. Problem is, I don't think that matters other than esthetics. I haven't shot them at over 15 yards yet, but I can't see a difference at that distance.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check