Thanks guys for all the advice. Here is what happened to some of them after the third coat/third bake:
and here was the side that was down on the mesh:
Some I could break off, others seem rather permanent.
Too much powder was added when you tumbled them. Remember that bit about you can always add more but you can't take it away. Also, you want them tacky dry to the touch in the bucket before you pout them over the mesh. The grid lines being so prominent in the coating scream too much too thick too wet. And I only say that because (cough, cough) been there and done that.... They still melted back down.
Instead of using a wire mesh, try parchment paper. Just started on the coating "trials", tried the mesh, then tried parchment paper. Used it because I didn't have any non stick aluminum foil. Worked GREAT! Might not work for all, but it's potentially a very cheap way to get boolits without the mesh marks. I just put the paper on a normal baking pan. After spending 20 bucks on a roll of mesh wire, and 15 minutes making a small basket, kinda ticked at myself for not trying the paper first. The paper will get some brown discoloration at 400 degrees, but does not show any signs at all of trying to ignite. Have used the same sheet for four bakes so far, and still going good. Guess that's why my wife hasn't burned the house down yet with her baking.
You don't get them rolling together and then baking together?
That IS something you have to watch for. I did several thin coats, and a few were touching, and stuck together. Seperating them was no problem, and left less of a mark than did the wire mesh.
Real parchment paper or butcher/baking paper?
Whatever!
Reynolds genuine parchment paper. Found it at my local grocery store by the aluminum foil.
Last edited by TheDoctor; 08-13-2013 at 06:20 PM.
I wonder if the foil or parchment paper were crumpled up some and then they were spread out over it if the crumpled texture would help out any?
Anyone tried Reynold's Release foil instead of parchment? I'd think it would stand up better to the high temperature.
seedeeze
Pffft, GUN-VIOLENCE indeed!!! Please! Less focus on my GUNS and more on society's VIOLENCE.
Anyone tried mixing in Hexagonal Boron Nitride (HBN powder) with the paint? When coating bullets for rifles in 223, wonder if it would make any difference there.
If you look at properties of specific HBN, when compressed, it becomes very hard.
I would not be surprised if it then becomes less able to conform during sizing once it has been subjected such high pressures.
I suppose, that may be if applied as extremely fine top coat, bonded, it may work as there is minimum material present to provide the extra resistance during sizing..
I found Klass Kote coated boolits that were dusted with graphite were near impossible to size. As soon as I stopped dusting them it went back to normal.
Dunno. Maybe it adds a minor amount of pressure that actually aids in accuracy somehow.
Sounds plausible, and you could be right.
Resistance to sliding, actually may increase pressures, so in theory, this increase should add velocity, and may be therefore increase accuracy if all is well.
What is a mystery is, that we all seem to relate extra slipperiness as desirable requirements to shoot faster. May be that aim is not realistic... don't know....
Again just assuming but maybe the solids change properties when under pressure and lose their lubricating properties.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |