These are happy little 9mm boolits. HFPC using paint thinner. Smash test , wipe test, barrel leading test and it hits the target, all good.
These are 1 coat, about 20 mintues bake time and 425f. Left to right black, red, grey(black, white) and brown which is a mixture of the 4 hf colors. I want to move up to the 230gr 30cal but not fast enough on the ordering of the mold. I should cast some 45 cal 230 ball fn for the acp and the long colt. Happy little boolits.
Nice looking Piglett PC job. Looks like a winner. Paint thinner seems to work well.
OUTSTANDING job!!!! I've never seen as smooth a finish as those. And after only one coat. You are an inspiration for us all!!!Originally Posted by passgas55
When you say paint thinner, do you mean PAINT thinner, or do you mean LACQUER thinner?
Also, is that PBTP paint? Can you give a link to the actual paints?
Do you have a regular "recipe" you use (i.e. ratios)? And how much paint/thinner per 100 9mm's?
Please enlighten us with your technique as you seem to have mastered it.
Last edited by prickett; 07-25-2013 at 08:32 AM. Reason: Addl questions
Passgas55 had, a few pages back, ID'd his paint thinner as PPG Duracryl, acrylic Lacquer Thinner, DTL 105. He had some left over from painting a car. The PPG stuff is definitely not hardware store lacquer thinner and is priced accordingly. IIRC, it's well north of $40/gal. His results are impressive though.
I don't know if el cheapo LT's will do as well, but it's worth testing. They're all a little different in terms of chemistry. We might get lucky.
I tried regular lacquer thinner from Home Depot, it did not dissolve the powder coat very well.
The automotive paint thinner I have not tried.
So...it all comes down to what brand of thinner that works best with hfpc? I did the same as bstone 5 using lacquer thinner from the big home D and yes red just sat the like moose snot ha! Threw in the bullets and its just made my cast look like they got chicken pox. Also wondering which powder coat desolves the best? Loving the experimenting these forums got me doing,please !more tips and hints, you guys are the coolest!
Has anyone tried MEK?
In general, MEK will evaporate slower and does not dissolve stuff the same way, and is more poisonous to boot when compared to acetone. Don't use MEK unless specifically called for by the parent product specs. ... felix
felix
Thanks Felix.
I ask because the can I saw said it was for dissolving epoxy specify, and I have used it to clean my tools for epoxy work on boats with good success. It does tend to evaporate slower than the lacquer thinner.
As state in another post it was left over PPG Duracryl, acrylic Lacquer Thinner, DTL 105 from painting a car. as far as ratio I just add the thinner in enough to get the bullets wet with a little extra and then just sprinkle in the powder mixing and adding more powder till I get a nice coat on bullets. if I make it too thick I will adds a drop or so more thinner. Usually the bottom of my plastic container is cover good after the bullets are finish. This dries out but when you do another batch and add thinner again it gives good coating on the new batch. if I could come up with a better way of baking without the hardware wire marks then it will look store bought.
Forgot to add this is Harbor Freight powder coat. I got the 4 colors of white, black, yellow and red.
attempted to try these.
Man! they got kinda ugly, mixed a little red and yellow, any tips?
These were the second batch
The second batch came out far better. The first bat has some that look like they have a rash. Or they are REAL zombie bullets...
Going to try to stand them up after wet tumbling them tonight, the screen puts dents on the sides of the bullets, my goal is to achieve a smooth and solid coat. Tried 4 attempts and it seems like its getting better as I go along, dont know if I should tumble them on the screen that's what made those zombie rashes ha!
I'm picking up my oven either this afternoon or in the morning. My plan is to tumble them in a bucket and once coated to pour them into the screen and slide them in the oven to cook. I expect surface imperfections from cooking on the screen but I expect them to be minor. Another thought is to see about cooking some on aluminum foil that is non stick. But I don't think there is a way short of spraying them with powder coat and holding them up to get a perfect smooth surface. No way of tumbling the powder onto the bullet is going to give you a perfect finish.
HA, HA, HA!!!! I missed that the first time I read through it. I doubt Bob would have thought that though...
Man, I'm having way too much fun with this! I'm busy as a one-armed wallpaper hanger lately so I'm lucky if I get 15 minutes every couple days to do anything. BUT, this last week worth of 15-minute slots has added up to a LOT of progress. I'll get some photos in the next couple days to post, I've been playing with method and colors--and they've turned up some interesting results. Stand by...
Guns have only two real enemies; Rust and Politicians...
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Where might I be found when I'm not here? Try looking here:http://www.facebook.com/NSWE.Pagosa and here: www.rescueropes.org
"I expect surface imperfections from cooking on the screen but I expect them to be minor."
" if I could come up with a better way of baking without the hardware wire marks then it will look store bought."
I believe Dolomite_superfly, Piglet, or someone else agitates the bullets on the screen to minimize "imperfections" - Makes sense, if some of the coating is distributed on the screen and the bullets are agitated until they are getting dryer then the coating should be more uniform with "minor" imperfections.
Do the imperfections cause any issues at pistol ranges? Do they lead to leading or reduce accuracy? Not like I would notice reduced accuracy though!!
From what I read through here, it seems the imperfections caused by the mesh are a non issue, and only a cosmetic issue for people.
Am I right in that?
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