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Thread: Lead Cores

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lead Cores

    Ok guys, I anticipate BT to be finishing up some 22 dies in the near future and want to talk about cores. I have my lead cores cast and bled to a common weight. I have read others have taken these cores prior to use and degrease and/or boil to clean. These are bench rest guys and wonder if there is any gain to our use? I look forward to your comments.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Are you talking about them cleaning the lube off after squirting?

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Excatly

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Yes that is a must.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Appreciate the reply, time to fire up the turkey fryer and put on a pot of water (man I get a lot of uses out of the turkey fryer propane base I purchased years ago)

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy


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    I just planned on cleaning with mineral spirits and roll around on towel. Would it be better to boil?

    Bill
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Anyway you can get the junk off. I use Acetone but then again I have change from using bullet making lube to using 3 in 1 oil.

    P.S. Gotta love those turkey fryers.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    I'll have to try 3 in 1 oil as a swage lube.
    Last edited by plus1hdcp; 05-28-2013 at 11:40 PM.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Acetone. You need the cores to be as clean as you can get them. Lube left on can be a bad thing.....
    "The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789])


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  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    How long to soak/agitate in acetone? 5-10 minutes or so?

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Lube left on can be a bad thing.....
    Wondering why this is true?

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by sargenv View Post
    Wondering why this is true?
    Yeah, I'd like to know as well. I've read where you *must* clean the lead cores....but I've left them as is and gone to the range and had very accurate shots out to 200 yards. What are the problems?

    D

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    As far as cleaning my cores, I use a canning jar, and place the cores inside and add the acetone. Place the lid on and roll your cores around for about 30 seconds. I use the lid as a strainer and pour our the acetone. I pour the cores on a clean towel and allow the acetone to evaporate.

    As far as cleaning them...... You have the possiblity of core jacket seperation. Think about it. What is the swage lube providing you when you swage? It gives you a physical barrier preventing your lead or jacket from gauling to the dies. Leaving the lube on the core prevents the lead and jacket from bonding.

    Now, it doesn't happen very often, but the fact that it might happen, is reason enough for me. I value my face and firearms.
    "The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789])


    Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
    Benjamin Franklin

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    How would lead/jacket separation be dangerous to your face or gun?
    With 20,000+ psi behind the closed base of the jacket, it is pushing the lead, to at least, exit the barrel.
    Just asking, I learn every day.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    It seems to me that cores that are not very firmly pressed against the inside of the jacket will spin at a different RPM than the jacket due to the difference in density between the jacket and the core (inertia) and that cannot be good for accuracy. Maybe the lands pressing the jacket into the core lock them together well enough, I don't know. It seems to me that the tighter the fit of the core in the jacket, the better off you are. Bonding would be even better and we havn't even begun to discuss terminal performance on game.

    Bob
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  16. #16
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    Going back to the 3 in 1 oil....... I haven't tried it but the only thing I currently reccomend to be used in my dies is an Anhydros Lanolin mixed lube.

    As far as removing any lube from inside of jacket or core..... YES it is common practice to remove all the lube possible. You guys put in this much effort in making these bullets I can't imigine you want to leave anything to chance when it comes to how well these bullets will shoot for you. A simple soak in mineral spirits and rub down in a large towel is what I do but you can't be "too" clean in your practices.

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  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    3 in 1is what my "mentor" uses. I decided to give it a try and have not seen a need to go back. It works great and comes off super fast.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mold maker View Post
    How would lead/jacket separation be dangerous to your face or gun?
    With 20,000+ psi behind the closed base of the jacket, it is pushing the lead, to at least, exit the barrel.
    Just asking, I learn every day.
    Well the core is probably leaving the bbl but a stuck jacket getting hit by another bullet is NOT going to be good for the bbl, gun or maybe shooter.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    I doubt very seriously that you would stick a jacket in your bore. But you remove as much lube as possible. I personally use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) to clean mine and I too use only anhydrous lanolin and castor oil ... the reason for cleaning as much lube off the cores as possible is to reduce the amount of voids and make a more accurate bullet. As BT said why go through all the trouble of drawing jackets, swaging an accurate core. Then throwing away the work in making an accurate core by not cleaning it when you core seat? Trapped air is a real accuracy killer in swaged bullets. the more you can do to eliminate it and insure more consistant accurate core seating will result in the most accurate bullet you are able to make. Dont do it it won't blow up your gun but you probably will have a bunch of Boolits that arent very good for even plinking

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks guys for a good discussion. I used anhydrous lanolin and castor oil as a lube and a swirl/soak in mineral spirits to aid in cleaning. One reason I started this topic and I was not too terribly clear is I read where others were adding an additional step of boiling in a dishwasher soap mixture and subsequent rinse. I have not done this to my cores but it seems like a small extra step to take. I also like the line Reload3006 added "to reduce the amount of voids and make a more accurate bullet." BT also commented, "you guys put in this much effort in making these bullets I can't imagine you want to leave anything to chance when it comes to how well these bullets will shoot for you." As for me, I have not yet received all my dies and hope mine will be included in the shipment BT received this week but I plan to add a second cleaning, if you will, to the swaged cores and anxiously await the final steps to make my own. Thanks again for a good discussion.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check