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Thread: Easy to build gas checkmaker

  1. #101
    Boolit Buddy abqcaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RP View Post
    I been looking real hard at buying a lathe but having to find enough reasons to spend the money I forgot about this project so one more reason I can justify buying one. I been told I would find several things to do with it when I owned one maybe they were right lol.
    You sure will! I've made powder measure adapters, equipment knobs, thumb screws, knurled nuts.

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  2. #102
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Made it for 30 caliber and they seat really good although on really hard lead alloy when seating and resizing with Lee sometimes I get a bit of a "lip" perhaps it could be a hair smaller otherwise it's great!
    I made a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rj4QUvSG7Ho
    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #103
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    I do not have a lathe. Can't afford one. Question: Could you make primer cups with a similar rig? Could you make a primer cup Punch and die? Then all that is left is to punch anvils and we can start loading primers.

  4. #104
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    Traffer,
    most of the folks making primers re-use fired primers and there is a long thread on making priming compound. If you really want to know about making primers locate the book "Ammunition making" by George Frost. You need some precision punching and trimming dies to make workable primers. Its much easier to recycle parts.

  5. #105
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    As a test I've pulled apart fired primers, used a punch to flatten the dent, put in home made primer compound, reset the anvil and went to town. Used 38spl as a low power test cartridge. Not awesome, but doable after primers run out during the apocalypse.

  6. #106
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    I had reload primers for handgun and shotgun and rifle and The only one that I see would give a problem is rifle because it is best to have the powder near the flash hole.So if one use something to keep the powder near the flash hole you will be ok. What i used is caps from cap guns.The ones that is made in Germany and 3F or 4F black powder. and it works no problem.For shot gun take a hole punch of brown paper and put it over the hole of the primer and then replace the anvil and then put a cap in the cup and be careful put it together and then you are good to go. But make sure after you use them in your gun to clean the gun.
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  7. #107
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    A stupid rookie "machinist" question : Considering the thread grade of the steel rod to be used for the die (7/8 x 14) , is a Thread grade rod of B7 acceptable? I couldn't find the Enco rod listed.

  8. #108
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sparky45 View Post
    A stupid rookie "machinist" question : Considering the thread grade of the steel rod to be used for the die (7/8 x 14) , is a Thread grade rod of B7 acceptable? I couldn't find the Enco rod listed.
    Sorry, I have no idea, I bought my threaded rod from local hardware store called "Tacoma Screw", I was being lazy to cut my own threads but threaded rod has poor metal. I ordered O1 tool steel this time and we'll be making version 2, this time I'll use NOE resizing die as a threaded body. But if I didn't have that I would machine something similar myself.

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  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by sparky45 View Post
    A stupid rookie "machinist" question : Considering the thread grade of the steel rod to be used for the die (7/8 x 14) , is a Thread grade rod of B7 acceptable? I couldn't find the Enco rod listed.
    I have never seen hard threaded rod. I use grade 8 bolts. They suck for making dies because of the inconsistency of hardness. You will be drilling or machine and hit a hard spot and unless you have tungsten carbide tools, it will cause problems. I am going to start annealing them this summer. Then harden them after the machining is done. I wouldn't even attempt to use threaded rod for a die. It seem softer than a grade 2 bolt to me. Even the grade 8 dies I make don't last long.

  10. #110
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    The B7 all thread is certainly superior to generic plated all thread. I have used it to make dies for forming an re-sizing brass for 44 shotshells. Also a person could harden it after machining. Using Casenite or Kasenite (sp?) if it is still available would be the easy way.

  11. #111
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traffer View Post
    I have never seen hard threaded rod. I use grade 8 bolts. They suck for making dies because of the inconsistency of hardness. You will be drilling or machine and hit a hard spot and unless you have tungsten carbide tools, it will cause problems. I am going to start annealing them this summer. Then harden them after the machining is done. I wouldn't even attempt to use threaded rod for a die. It seem softer than a grade 2 bolt to me. Even the grade 8 dies I make don't last long.
    So it turns out my threaded rod is pretty hard, at least when machining like harder to machine than O1 tool steel

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    Last edited by dimaprok; 04-17-2018 at 03:43 PM.

  12. #112
    Boolit Master Retumbo's Avatar
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    I made mine out of plain cold rolled steel. Made thousands before I had to sharpen the die.

    I guess metal choice depends if you want to mare 1000's or 10,000's or 100,000's.

    My die works for me. If I ever need hundreds of thousands of gas checks I would get a real machinist to make one for me

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traffer View Post
    I have never seen hard threaded rod. I use grade 8 bolts. They suck for making dies because of the inconsistency of hardness. You will be drilling or machine and hit a hard spot and unless you have tungsten carbide tools, it will cause problems. I am going to start annealing them this summer. Then harden them after the machining is done. I wouldn't even attempt to use threaded rod for a die. It seem softer than a grade 2 bolt to me. Even the grade 8 dies I make don't last long.
    Hard threaded rod certainly exists.

    gr5 threaded rod is 120k psi tensile, 92kpsi yield, and rockwell hardness of c25-c34

    B7 125k 105k c26-c32

    gr8 150k 130k c33-c39

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy View Post
    Hard threaded rod certainly exists.

    gr5 threaded rod is 120k psi tensile, 92kpsi yield, and rockwell hardness of c25-c34

    B7 125k 105k c26-c32

    gr8 150k 130k c33-c39
    It took a while but finally someone with knowledge spoke up. When I stated that I had never seen hard threaded rod, it was a true statement. Thanks for informing us Soundguy.

  15. #115
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    you will also generally pay dearly for that gr8 150k 130k c33-c39 threaded rod
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  16. #116
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    Sure, just like buying specialty fasteners that are very hard gr10, and non standard head, and length. Like cat bulldozer track pad bolts. You play, you pay.

  17. #117
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    I used 4140 alloy steel, nice to machine, and is tough! made .45 and .30 cals so far. making 8mm/.32 cal at the moment. Simple dies that work very well.
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  18. #118
    Boolit Mold
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    If anyone is making these I would love to buy ones in various calibers. I don't have any of these sorts of tools.

  19. #119
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Forgot to add I actually use O-1 tool steel that's intended for tools like punches and I temper the punch.

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  20. #120
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    You can also get chrome moly heat treated studs for pipe flanges,the refineries throw away once used ones by the ton.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check