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Thread: Easy to build gas checkmaker

  1. #141
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shootsblanks View Post
    Super slow reply on my end sorry.
    It is a 1 stage, i had issue with the .004 being found between muzzle and target at inconsistant distances, AND in the berm... switched to .012 thick flashing and that was solved, as was my malformed check problem but, after sizing my bullets to crimp on the check the, material forms a convex base, it appears consistant, and does not seem to lead so off to the range.

    the groups fired last night are not reliable as i have a sunburn induced flinch at the moment, anything more than my plinker loads is painfull!
    i only had the 25 meter range but out of 5 shots i put 3 into 1/4" center to center and the next 2 went almost exactly 1" higher and 1" lower, but were perfect for windage.

    I am optimisitic, i believe that had more to do with my shooting than the checks, i will know for sure next week once my burn heals up and i can shoot properly again. I do not believe that an out of square check would manifest perfect vertical stringing that extreme at that short a range
    Load was 29.4gr varget under a noe sc311-165, no chrony data yet but estimate between 1950-2000fps
    I haven't tested my flat base gas checks yet sadly not enough time. The only flat base 30 cal bullet I have is NOE HTC 153 and shoots very good without a gas check around 2000 fps. I am getting pretty good results with traditional gas checks and powder coated 134gr bullet (NOE 130) velocity 2330fps, cartridge 7.62x40 with 23.5gr of 1680. Both of these shoot 1" or better at 50 yards. The thick .012 flashing would deform the base of bullet quite a bit. If you don't want concave, size it with base up or use lubrisizer, the best results are with later.

  2. #142
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimaprok View Post
    I haven't tested my flat base gas checks yet sadly not enough time. The only flat base 30 cal bullet I have is NOE HTC 153 and shoots very good without a gas check around 2000 fps. I am getting pretty good results with traditional gas checks and powder coated 134gr bullet (NOE 130) velocity 2330fps, cartridge 7.62x40 with 23.5gr of 1680. Both of these shoot 1" or better at 50 yards. The thick .012 flashing would deform the base of bullet quite a bit. If you don't want concave, size it with base up or use lubrisizer, the best results are with later.
    2000fps is pretty fast for plain base! I was under the impression that you need a check even with htc

    I believe you are right and my material is just too thick, when i was punching them from pop cans they would seat nice and flat, but had leading, terrible accuracy. i was also finding checks on the ground strewn muzzle to target and on recovered bullets alike,

  3. #143
    Boolit Mold
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    Well, I just found another project to add to my list, lol. I'll definitely be making one (or several) of these in the future...

  4. #144
    Boolit Man
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    I am going to try and put it on my list of things to make. Definitely need one on hand for every caliber I cast.
    KW
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  5. #145
    Boolit Buddy MaxJon's Avatar
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    I've made 3 of these now, in .45, 8mm, and .30 cal. They all seem to come out with a bigger than desired corner radius on the perimeter of the check, compared to Hornady checks. I'm thinking it's the shearing, and forming in one process that's causing it. I think the 2 step set up, disc cutter, then cup in a separate die may solve this, as per Corbins GCM 1 set up.
    I'm using copper flashing of .012, and .015 thickness.

    Any thoughts??
    Regards BB
    Last edited by MaxJon; 04-26-2020 at 02:06 AM. Reason: Missed info.
    THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN HIT THE CENTRE OF THE TARGET IS WITH A CENTREFIRE!!!

  6. #146
    Boolit Buddy
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    I'm getting ready to have a set (.30, .35, .40 and .45) built by the machinist at work. In addition to these, I also need one for .44 Mag. Can someone please let me know the dimensions that are needed for this? I downloaded the pdf, but no 44 Mag is listed. HELP!

  7. #147
    Boolit Buddy MaxJon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idz View Post
    I put together this writeup of how anybody with a small lathe can make their own gas checkmaker. I've made about 1000 checks of various calibers and the dies and punches still function as new. If you decide to build one let me know how it turns out. Enjoy!
    Thanks ldz! I have made a few now. I have noticed the 13/32 disk size is too big for .30 cal checks however. Based on the .287 bullet shank size, the checks come out at .095" high. I would prefer the .075" as per Hornady. I am of the belief that, the disk size is more like 3/8"
    Just my observations, and thanks again!
    THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN HIT THE CENTRE OF THE TARGET IS WITH A CENTREFIRE!!!

  8. #148
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    it's not too big, 13/32 is .406, I use .400 and my gas checks are .070 +/- .003. I measure from inside gas check with calipers end. if you're getting .095" measured inside most likely cause is your punch ID is too small and GC is getting stretched. Open up your ID .314 - .317"
    Also .287" forming pin seems too big, should be .284". If the bullet shank is tapered, I pick middle of the road.


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  9. #149
    Boolit Buddy MaxJon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimaprok View Post
    it's not too big, 13/32 is .406, I use .400 and my gas checks are .070 +/- .003. I measure from inside gas check with calipers end. if you're getting .095" measured inside most likely cause is your punch ID is too small and GC is getting stretched. Open up your ID .314 - .317"
    Also .287" forming pin seems too big, should be .284". If the bullet shank is tapered, I pick middle of the road.


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    I'm using copper also, maybe a problem.....
    THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN HIT THE CENTRE OF THE TARGET IS WITH A CENTREFIRE!!!

  10. #150
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    I doubt copper is problem, how thick is it? Measuring sheet metal with calipers is tricky, best done with micrometer. Measure the punch ID with calipers, just the first 1/4" and report. I am working on one right now as I write. I made so many 30 cals I got all dimensions memorized
    here's a pic. This works real well with .012 aluminum from Home Depot (Gibraltar) or .014" Amerimax. Before I opened up punch ID from .312 it was stretching thicker gas checks and they would get stuck on forming pin too.

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  11. #151
    Boolit Buddy MaxJon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimaprok View Post
    I doubt copper is problem, how thick is it? Measuring sheet metal with calipers is tricky, best done with micrometer. Measure the punch ID with calipers, just the first 1/4" and report. I am working on one right now as I write. I made so many 30 cals I got all dimensions memorized
    here's a pic. This works real well with .012 aluminum from Home Depot (Gibraltar) or .014" Amerimax. Before I opened up punch ID from .312 it was stretching thicker gas checks and they would get stuck on forming pin too.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Thanks for your help! It was with .012 copper sheet. But my punch is not as big as .316" I have on hand .012" and .020" copper sheet.
    I will confirm dimensions and get back to you.
    I always measure with a micrometer where possible.
    Thanks again!
    THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN HIT THE CENTRE OF THE TARGET IS WITH A CENTREFIRE!!!

  12. #152
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    .012" thickness should work nicely. I never tried copper myself because I can't find it local and online it cost as much as factory gas checks.

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  13. #153
    Boolit Buddy MaxJon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimaprok View Post
    it's not too big, 13/32 is .406, I use .400 and my gas checks are .070 +/- .003. I measure from inside gas check with calipers end. if you're getting .095" measured inside most likely cause is your punch ID is too small and GC is getting stretched. Open up your ID .314 - .317"
    Also .287" forming pin seems too big, should be .284". If the bullet shank is tapered, I pick middle of the road.


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Thanks again dimaprok.
    My bad, further research reveals that .406 is spot on! I think i need to confirm my punch ID is .316 and my forming post is .284, and i believe my problems will be solved! I think some compensations need to be factored in for when the sheet material relaxes after punching/forming of the check. I am also annealing the copper maybe a help. I am out in the workshop tomorrow, if i can work out how to post some pics for you, i will! Its people like you that make this forum great!!
    Thanks again!
    Last edited by MaxJon; 05-02-2020 at 02:07 AM. Reason: missed info
    THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN HIT THE CENTRE OF THE TARGET IS WITH A CENTREFIRE!!!

  14. #154
    Boolit Master
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    Anyone have a copy of the PDF instructions, I'm not able to open it. Thanks, Teddy

    tvjr42@gmail.com

  15. #155
    Boolit Buddy BC17A's Avatar
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    Excellent design and print for making gas checks, thank you Idz.

    Finished making one for my 500 magnum Lee castings and they fit great. I used .019" aluminum purchased from Home Depot and popped out 650 checks from the 12"x24" sheet. Would have been better to use .020" since I polished open my sizer to just under .502", but powder-coating after crimping them on added the extra thickness they needed to be perfect.


    Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #156
    Boolit Buddy
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    Nicely done BC17A. It feels great to have the freedom of making your own reloading equipment and being able to knock out 100 gas checks in quick order.

  17. #157
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Looks really good, I made one too in the past, but I found that punching .020" aluminum was extremely difficult and I came to conclusion that anything past .014" and bigger than .35 in caliber is not meant to be punched on the press unless its a swagging press or modified linkage for extra leverage. I need to explore arbor press.

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  18. #158
    Boolit Buddy BC17A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimaprok View Post
    Looks really good, I made one too in the past, but I found that punching .020" aluminum was extremely difficult and I came to conclusion that anything past .014" and bigger than .35 in caliber is not meant to be punched on the press unless its a swagging press or modified linkage for extra leverage. I need to explore arbor press.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    I hear you. The little Lee press was definitely at its limit, but it managed somehow. My neighbor makes jewelry and gave me some scrap 24ga copper which is .021" thick and once through her roller gizmo was at .020". That took about 50% more force to pop through the die and was also much harder to crimp on through the sizer even after annealing them. However, just as I figured the .020" copper fit the boolit much better than the .019" aluminum. I have a small press and plan on using it to make my next batch of checks.

    Also, I started on two more makers for 357 and 44 as I have a few other molds on the way. Those should be a piece-o-cake on the press compared to the thick 500's.

    Here's one of the copper checks crimped on after PC. It took a firm push to seat it fully and did shave a bit of PC in the process but does hold on better than the thinner aluminum.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #159
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    One more thing, I wore out 2 of these cheap Lee presses mostly testing gas check dies, they have good leverage but the ram has so much play in it now, its junk.

    I didn't know they had these things that can roll down a strip of metal! Are they adjustable? How wide a strip can it accept?

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  20. #160
    Boolit Buddy Joe504's Avatar
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    Dimaprok, its called a rolling mill, they ain't cheap.Click image for larger version. 

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check