8x57 JR help

[smoked turkey]

One of my current projects is to cast and load for the 8x57JR, with .318 groove diameter barrel, 1 in 12" twist. It seems that any one of the following molds could work: 323481, 321297, 323470. Wheel weight metal would be used. I thought to purchase a .320 Lyman sizing die, if available, which would put the boolit .002 over groove diameter as the bore has been slugged and found to be .318. Here is where the questions start. Since current 8x57 Mauser sizing dies are set up to size and crimp for .323 bullets, I assume they won't work for the .318 application. If not are there die sets specifically for the 8x57JR? If so, I need to find one of those sets. Next comes brass and shellholder. I would like to find brass with the 8x57 JR headstamp which would seem to be more compatible with .318 bullets or boolits. I also need to find which shellholder fits this case head. Lastly can someone point me to a dimentioned drawing of an 8x57JR? I plan to post in the WTB section once it is determined which mold, dies, sizer, shellholder, and brass to buy. If anyone has any of this they can let go I'd appreciate a PM on it. So what does board membership say about this project? Thanks in advance for your valuable input.

[skeettx]

First, what gun are you loading for?
In my Krieghoff drilling the 196 grain bullet is the proper bullet.

NO sweat, use the 8x57 standard dies and replace the expander ball with a smaller expander or just
forget the expander and use a Lyman M die as a seperate step
Your 8x57R is a single shot or drilling, right? No need to crimp
The shell holder for the 444 Marlin should do just fine.

For fun, slowly size a 444 Marlin case in an 8x57 die.
Every little bit remove the case from the die and wipe the
excess lub away and rotate the case.

As far as a dimensional drawing, it is the same as the 8x57 Mauser with the exception of a rim.
http://www.saami.org/PubResources/CC...m%20Mauser.pdf

Much cheaper to BUY the LOADED ammo
Sellier & Bellot 8x57 JR
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm...dID=ZYSB857JRA
When available



Mike

[skeettx]

For a proper cast bullet, you might try here
http://www.neihandtools.com/catalog.html
page 5
Bullet number 86 or 86B
Mike

[frnkeore]

Molds to look for on Ebay or other places are,

316475, cast GC, .318 by Lymans info as are the below sizes, cast in Lyman #2 alloy
319295, .320, GC, a excellent bullet for your application
319247, .320 pb
321297 & 321297U, .323, .321, GC
320366 & 323366, both cast .323, GC sharp spitzer

The 323481 casts at least .325, mine casts .326 in a soft alloy, my 323470 and 323471 cast .325/.3255 with that same alloy (20/1).

Look here for some of the above designs,

http://www.generalordnanceusa.com/index.html

Frank

[roberto mervicini]

Hello smoked turkey,
I have 3 mauser rifle using 8x57 cartridges, one is a Husky same action as the 6.5x55 and two are k98 sporterized.
The Husky I purchased as barrelled action only, and since bought from what I assumed a reputable large importer-seller advertised as 8x57 mauser I assumed is a 8x57 mauser (.323) and did not slug the bbl.
I fit it with a temporary stock, fire tested with 170 grain Hornady over 46.0 IMR 4895, the rifle was extremely accurate so I made a proper stock and proceed to scope the rifle. I wasn't happy with the crowning and one day I decide to re-crown the bbl..... surprise.... the pilot .323 cannot fit!!
I slug the bbl and it is a .318: both other rifles are indeed .323
I never crimp any rifle cartridge, except my 45/70, I use same dye to reload the .318 and the .323 with the same adjustments, I keep the casing the brass separate for each rifle since neck size only.
Since I do not look for trouble, from the moment I realized that the Husky is a .318 I load only with WW boolits only at mild charges, and it work fine.
the full pic on the cement is the 8x57 .318 Husky.

[smoked turkey]

Thanks for the good information to my post. As far as crimping is concerned, when I use an M die in conjunction with seating a cast boolit, I always barely go to the second step on my mandrel and just give the end of the case a bit of flair so as to just start the boolit into the case mouth almost a gas check deep. Not much, just a tick of a flair so as not to shave the lead boolit as it is seated into the case mouth. I apply just enough "crimp" to straighten the end of the cartridge case back straight. I realize if you are seating j words it might not be necessary to apply a crimp. In addition to getting some other thoughts on casting and loading the JR cartridge, I was hoping to scare out a set of dies for the 8x57 JR specifically set up for .318 dia application, as well as some other items I mentioned. I did indeed get some good information. I certainly will check into just purchasing loaded ammo for my break open rifle. I do enjoy the process of casting and loading my own ammo and would still like to do that unless it becomes too expensive to get set up to do it. Meanwhile I will be on the look out for a standard die set and I will give it a go to reform the 444 Marlin case.

[skeettx]

Well, if you want to spend the money
C-H 4-Dies makes the 8x57 318 Dies
http://www.ch4d.com/catalog/dies/caliber-list?page=56

What break open gun do you have?

Mike

[smoked turkey]

Much thanks to all for the very informative replies. I looked at Graf and plan to order the brass from them. I am considering posting a WTB for the regular 8x57 Mauser dies or just wait until I see some at a good price on the selling section. I will post a WTB for a mold & sizer too. I understand from RCBS the proper shellholder is a #26, so I need one of those too. Boy just looking at the list of stuff needed to reload and cast for a new caliber can get expensive. I agree that it can be cheaper to just buy loaded ammo if a person is not going to shoot the caliber much. But what fun is that? Thanks.