RotoMetals2Inline FabricationTitan ReloadingRepackbox
Snyders JerkyMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee PrecisionReloading Everything
Wideners Load Data
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 23 of 23

Thread: wrinkles :(

  1. #21
    Vendor Sponsor

    Smoke4320's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Right here ..at least I was a minute ago
    Posts
    5,049
    congrads TrapperXX.. thats some good looking bullets

    Newbee question ...so how do you store your used steel molds so they do not rust

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

    MikeS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Weston, Florida
    Posts
    2,152
    Casting at 750F is a bit on the high side. I normally cast all my boolits at 650F, sometimes going up to 675F if need be. By going much over 700F you're loosing the advantages tin brings to the alloy, that being pourability, and mould fillout. The thing is, when casting at the lower temps, you need to cast fast, not stop to look at the boolits you just cast, go as fast as you SAFELY can, then look at the boolits later. The best casting temp is actually about 100F higher than the point where the lead melts fully. For my alloy (similar to Lyman #2) 650 - 675 works well. Control the mould temp by speed of casting, not temp of lead in the pot. Keep on going, you'll get it worked out, you seem to be doing good so far.
    - MikeS

    Want to checkout my feedback? It's here:
    http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...d.php?t=136410

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeS View Post
    Casting at 750F is a bit on the high side. I normally cast all my boolits at 650F, sometimes going up to 675F if need be. By going much over 700F you're loosing the advantages tin brings to the alloy, that being pourability, and mould fillout. The thing is, when casting at the lower temps, you need to cast fast, not stop to look at the boolits you just cast, go as fast as you SAFELY can, then look at the boolits later. The best casting temp is actually about 100F higher than the point where the lead melts fully. For my alloy (similar to Lyman #2) 650 - 675 works well. Control the mould temp by speed of casting, not temp of lead in the pot. Keep on going, you'll get it worked out, you seem to be doing good so far.
    Thanks, I am going to watch the temp close. Things really came together this last session but I know I have a lot to learn. I couldn't imagine doing it without this board. This place really shortens the learning curve.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check