Savage 99 Price Check

[Duce53]

Folks:
I'm looking for a 99 in .250/3000. I 'm not looking for a collector piece, just a shooter, even one that needs a little TLC. Gun Broker list one with a cut down barrel {20"}, worn finish, replacement butt stock, and a fair to good bore for $375. I felt this was high, so what is a fair price for this rifle or a plain jane shooter.......<><Duce53

[yooper]

Folks:
I felt this was high, so what is a fair price for this rifle or a plain jane shooter.......<><Duce53

Are you looking for a fair price to offer for THIS rifle or for another "plain jane shooter"? Personally I wouldn't make ANY offer on this one. It sounds like a basket of parts that's been assembled and I doubt you'd be happy with it. I know things are pretty crazy right now in the gun dealin' business, but when the dust settles you should be able to get a decent shooter 250 for $500. If you're not turned off by guns that have been drilled & tapped (to me that's a deal-breaker) there are a lot of them out there. I wouldn't be in a rush, and keep haunting GunBroker. Watch for guns that have been listed for a while with no bids and make the owner an offer. Folks are paying good money for guns with condition, but shooters can sometimes be a long-time selling. JMHO and good luck.
yooper

[NVScouter]

I have to agree. I just priced what mine was worth and went low at $250 under average for excellent condition. These are really commanding top dollar right now.

If you get a Pre-70s in good shape marked as 250-3000 not 250 savage and over a 22" barrel for under $600 its a good deal.

Are you looking for a fair price to offer for THIS rifle or for another "plain jane shooter"? Personally I wouldn't make ANY offer on this one. It sounds like a basket of parts that's been assembled and I doubt you'd be happy with it. I know things are pretty crazy right now in the gun dealin' business, but when the dust settles you should be able to get a decent shooter 250 for $500. If you're not turned off by guns that have been drilled & tapped (to me that's a deal-breaker) there are a lot of them out there. I wouldn't be in a rush, and keep haunting GunBroker. Watch for guns that have been listed for a while with no bids and make the owner an offer. Folks are paying good money for guns with condition, but shooters can sometimes be a long-time selling. JMHO and good luck.
yooper

[oldfart1956]

Duce...Google up Redding Hardware in Gettysburg, Pa. I don't have their number handy put will check for it. They're a hardware store/gun shop. I was just in there Saturday and they must have 2 dozen Savage 99's in one rack. Several were the 250-3000 if I recall just glancing through. I don't have a clue as to pricing or condition but might be worth a shot. They're some fine folks to deal with I can vouch for that. Audie...the Oldfart.

[Duce53]

I felt that $375 for a cut down/up rifle was high, but I didn't have anything to gauge it by so Thanks.
Your advice about waiting and spending a little more for something a little more complete will be heeded. Redding Hardware in Gettysberg PA next stop.......Thanks ....<>< Duce53

[northmn]

250's go for about double a good 300 in my country. Savage would still be making them if they could sell a new one for what the old ones go for. I have seen them go as high a $900+. $600 would be great deal.

DP

[rintinglen]

Northmn's experience is what I see here in SoCal. A 250-3000 goes for $700 minimum, nice older models can run $200-250 more, 300 Savages sit on the shelf for $500.
If all I wanted was a clean shooterAND I could inspect the gun before buying, 375 would be a fair price indeed, if it is indeed a clean shooter. BUT, without looking it over closely, you're buying a pig in a poke.

[Duce53]

NorthMN,Rintinglen:
My concern with this rifle was that the barrel had been shorten to 20" and recrowned. The seller described the bore as fair to good. You're right in that for a walk around varmite rifle this may be just the ticket, but without an in hand inspection it's just too much to risk.......<>< Duce53

[gnoahhh]

Be aware too that 99's in .250-3000 with a pre-million serial number will be rifled with a slow twist that may or (probably) may not stabilize 100 grain bullets. (Depends on the length of the bullet. A 100gr. short RN design will probably shoot ok.) Later ones utilize a 1-10" twist that does right well with 100 grainers . Of course, there are no flies on the 87gr. bullets @ 3000fps in terms of deer killing. That's the load that gave the .250 its reputation.

[NVScouter]

Be aware too that 99's in .250-3000 with a pre-million serial number will be rifled with a slow twist that may or (probably) may not stabilize 100 grain bullets. (Depends on the length of the bullet. A 100gr. short RN design will probably shoot ok.) Later ones utilize a 1-10" twist that does right well with 100 grainers . Of course, there are no flies on the 87gr. bullets @ 3000fps in terms of deer killing. That's the load that gave the .250 its reputation.

Change this to speek about the 120g projectiles and you are correct. All of the 1 in 14 twists shoot the 100g very well, but wont shoot a 120g to save your life.

[451whitworth]

Northmn's experience is what I see here in SoCal. A 250-3000 goes for $700 minimum, nice older models can run $200-250 more, 300 Savages sit on the shelf for $500.
If all I wanted was a clean shooterAND I could inspect the gun before buying, 375 would be a fair price indeed, if it is indeed a clean shooter. BUT, without looking it over closely, you're buying a pig in a poke.

agree with Northmn and rintinglen. 250-3000 models bring about a 50% premium (some times more) over a comparable condition 300 Sav. Last month on Gunbroker there was a 99R in 250 Sav that was a cosmetic wreck both wood and metal. It had been drilled/tapped for a side scope mount that wasn't there. opening bid was $575 with no reserve and it got the one bid. The only reason it sold for that much was the chambering.

[gnoahhh]

Change this to speek about the 120g projectiles and you are correct. All of the 1 in 14 twists shoot the 100g very well, but wont shoot a 120g to save your life.

Well, I beg to differ! All of the 1-14" twist .250's will not shoot all 100gr. bullets accurately (unless you have low expectations for accuracy). This is an incontrovertible fact borne out by myself and everybody I know of who has tried them. The ROT is simply not sufficient to fully stabilize a 100gr. spitzer or spire point, period. As I said some few 100gr. designs work ok. The semi-round nose designs by Speer and Remington come to mind. Post this question on a Savage Collectors forum and see what responses you get.

Early Savages were rifled with sine bar rifling machines that relied on operator skill and attentiveness to precisely maintain a requisite rate of twist. We have found examples with ROT's as fast as 1-13" and as slow as 1-15½", which have a decided impact on their ability to stabilize 100gr. bullets.

Stick with 87-90gr. bullets and the problem is solved. If you find a particular 100gr. bullet to work well buy a slew of them and count yourself lucky (and I'll guarantee you it'll be one that is relatively short in length, or else you have a rifle with an abnormally fast twist made by a machine operator 'asleep at the switch that day).

Of course all of this is moot with post-million #'ed (post 1960) Savage 99's, when they switched to 1-10" twists for their .250-3000's.

[obssd1958]

I'll agree with gnoahhh on the boolit weight/twist rate issue. My 250/3000 would send the 100gr Nosler BT through the target substantially sideways. I did find that the Speer 100gr flatbase worked, but I believe that is because of it's much shorter length.
There will always be exceptions to the rule, but you have to let the rifle tell you if it wants to play that game!

To the original poster:
My rifle is just a shooter, and not a collector's piece, but I wouldn't let it go for less than $650. For more info as to why, read my hunting story here - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...e-with-a-rifle!!

Take care!

Don

[NVScouter]

Well I have reloaded for 3 early 250-3000. And the problem bullet design. All shoot the 100g long bearing surface bulles well to include one that was 1:15. None will shoot a Nosler. But the Speer Remmington and Sierras SP always work. Th Hornady 100g Interlock is the one that stands out and works time and again.

I will also call the 250-3000 powder picky. Get 4350 and don't look back.

Incontrovertible? Hardly and why should I go to another site and ask more Internet Jockies about what I know works? They will probobly tell me the deer, coyotes, ground squirrels, and rabbits I've killed died of fright to this bunk rifle.

[Duce53]

Folks:
Thanks for he info and offers. I've learned a lot. The story behind my search is, upon my Grandfather's death I received his 99/250. I t was an early one and I didn't have the knowledge to load 100Gr. bullets correctly. It was to be my first deer rifle. I traded it for a pre 64 Model 70 lightweight in .243. Not the worse deal I've ever made, but years later my love affair with leverguns rekindled and I've lamented loosing Grandpa's rifle. Again keep the offers and info coming, don't forget pictures......<><Duce

[NVScouter]

A 250 for a 6mm......shame shame. The only thing about mine is that the value is up to where I almost don't want to hunt with it anymore. Bolt or lever doesn't matter to me but I'm SOLD on the 250-300 for weight/recoil/varmint/deer.

Ill PM you if you want to make an offer on mine. But first what condition are you looking for? Looks decent/shoots well to new condition?

[rintinglen]

I side with Gnoahh on this one.
The only 100 grainers that mine shoots reasonably well are the short flat-based spitzers. No boat-tailed Bullets of any weight need apply. Mine is a 1956 gun, and dotes on the Hornady 87 grain Spitzers. Right now, though, I am working on some 257-463 cast boolits. I am having a hard time getting those little boolits to cast well. I am amazed at the 22 shooters who cast. My reject rate would surely exceed my keepers.

[Duce53]

Hey:
Just a thought, as I remember Grandpa's rifle had a machined on front sight ramp and dovetail with a solid German silver bead sight. Does this in anyway date this rifle?
Anyone that has one for sale can PM me. I'm looking for a shooter, PM me some pictures showing the worse flaws in the wood, metal and at least one of the crown muzzle area. Thanks......<>< Duce

[JDBrowning]

NVScouter, I'm with you on the Savage 99 250-3000 and it's accuracy with 100 gr bullets. Mine will group 5 shots into 3/8in group at 100 yd. My best group was 3 shots in 1 in at 235 measured yds. I've tried 100 gr BT bullets and they do not group at tight as a 100gr flat base. I have always thought the accuracy of this rifle was a fluke because on the 1-14 twist. Glad to hear others are having good results with that twist.