I think my Wife buys it for quilting. Check out the quilt store. I recall seeing some at Wally Mart too. The gals make pillows with that stuff.
Yep, hobby and fabric stores. Run a search on this site and you will be overwhelmed with information about the use of Dacron as a filler.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
Repost from the sticky "The Proper Use of Fillers";
I have for many, many years found dacron (polyester fill) to be the best "filler". I use a filler only when appropriate. Many think I always use a filler with every powder....I DO NOT!!!! The use of the filler can cause problems if not used correctly and when appropriate. If the powder is not correct for the bullet/cartridge combination then the filler is not going to make it "right". Many want to use a specific powder for a cartridge because the powder is "cheap" or because "they have a lot of it". There are lots of powders that are not only poor choices to use but that can be dangerous if used in an inappropriate bullet/cartridge combination. Do yourself a favor if you are wanting to use an inappropriate powder (usually "no data" available is an indication the powder might be inappropriate) and get an appropriate powder. You will save yourself a lot of frustration. The use of the dacron filler only makes an appropriate powder perform better. The dacron filler will not make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
I don't use the dacron filler or a wad with the fast to medium burning "fast" pistol /shotgun type powders. I find one of these fast burning powders that is fast enough to ignite and burn efficiently at the velocity I want and avoid using a filler with them.
I almost always use the dacron filler in rifle cases with the slower “fast” burning powders (4227, 4759, 5744, 4198, etc. with lighter medium weight bullets for the cartridge; i.e. 140 - 165 gr bullets in .30/.31 cals of 30-30 through '06 case capacity), the medium burning powders (RL7, 3031, 4895, etc.) up through the slow burning powders (RL19, AA4350, H4831SC, RL22, 3100, etc.) that give around 80% or less loading density under medium to heavy weight bullets for the cartridge; i.e. 170 - 220+ gr bullets in .30/.31 cals. Those examples are for the .30/.31 cals but the same guidance applies to other calibers. The dacron filler is used only between the powder and base of the bullet.
The “dacron” is polyester fill as commonly found in pillows and toys. It also comes in sheets called “batting”. It can be obtained very reasonably at most any fabric store.
The dacron batting comes in various thicknesses. I prefer that which is about 5/8" thick. My wife recently bought me 10 yards which will give many, many thousands of cast bullet loads. With this current batch of batting I cut it initially across the width into strips about 3/4" wide. I then "eyeball" cut 1/2" wide chunks which is close to 3/4 gr.
A smaller chunk is cut for 1/2 gr and larger for a larger amount. I've cut some chunks that weight 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 grs and have them in a "snack" baggie stuck on a poster board above my loading bench for quick reference when I need to cut new chunks. The batting will run thin and thick throughout the sheet so I again just "eyeball it" based on the thickness of the batting when cutting the chunks.
Pretty extensive tests have demonstrated that the weight of the filler does not have to be exact, only close. What is important is that there is enough so that it “fills" the space between powder and bullet. A little too much hurts nothing but too little poses problems. That's why I have the different size "chunks" so I can use the right size for the case capacity I am filling. For example; with most medium burning powders (3031, 4895, 4064) in and '06 to function an M1 a 3/4 gr dacron filler is about right. With slower powders that give a higher loading density like 4831 a 1/2 gr filler is about right.
I use a section of .22 cal cleaning rod in cartridges of .30 - .375 cal to push the Dacron chunk inside the case just so it is all in. The 6 to 10" section gives plenty to hold onto and sufficient "feel". Merely hold the chunk of dacron over the case mouth and shove it in with the rod. Sometimes it takes a couple three pokes to ensure all is inside the case mouth. I poke the chunks in until all the dacron is at the bottom of the neck or at least all in the case. It doesn’t matter exactly where just so long as you don’t tamp it down on the powder as a wad and leaved a space between the base of the bullet and the dacron.
What you want to do is push it in to let the base of the bullet finish pushing it down and adding any compression against the powder. Thus I do not push it down on the powder but let the bullet do that when the bullet is seated. Using the right size chunk of dacron this method then provides a "filler" in the air space between the powder and base of the bullet.
A small length of coat hanger works for the .22-7mm cartridges and an unsharpened pencil works well for .45 cals. With the charged cases in a loading block I simply hold the chunk of dacron over the case mouth and push it in with the rod. It is quite easy and a lot of “precision is not required, just get the dacron into the case and let the bullet finish pushing it down.
Larry Gibson
Hey Nobade, No, no secret that I know of...... or can share.
I have not really spent much brain time on the smokeless/PP bullet aspect and have really had great loads in every attempt. Sorry, that is not helpful. My memory is not so great so maybe that is not true and I just think so. It has been a while since I have even played the smokeless/PP combo. I have PP moulds for a bunch of rifles, and much of my current shooting with them is with BP only. In smokeless I have patched (successfully) for the .338 cases, 348 win using a jacketed 338 patched up for 348. 35 Whelen and then the most experience by far as measured by shots fired has been with the 375H&H and 38-55 class rifles and patched/smokeless 45-70 rifles.
The smaller bores worked and would give them a summer in development and then I hunted with them and moved on.
The one area I can see that I depart with that is often stated as a truism is in the as cast size of the PP bullet for smokeless shooting. I cast large (much larger) as cast bullets than has been recommended. Stated wisdom of .001 over bore diameter may not fill the chamber-neck and throat and if problems arise that might be the place to think about. In the case of this topic, the 375 H&H, my rifle has a huge case neck and throat diameter. The bullet in the picture for the 375 H&H measures .372" I know, wow! That is big. If your rifles are blessed with this large throat condition too, that might be something to consider. Here is my thinking on addressing the problem. When choosing a paper patch bullet diameter I do not worry about barrel bore/groove size on a production rifle as much as chamber neck/throat diameter. On a custom rifle or target rifle it is the first thing to consider when ordering a reamer but on a rifle that comes to you built, we are stuck with what it is.... so I like a bullet that is large enough and fills the chamber neck for all cast bullet shooting be it GG bullets or the PP bullet. The advantages, as you know, are better alinement and then the real biggie with PP bullets- better gas seal. This is especially true with PP, filling up the chamber and throat to seal the case off has to be a good thing.
Gota go - dang work gets in the way...... did not proof read so might not make sense -Michael Rix
Chill Wills
Thanks Michael, your experiences pretty well mirror mine. Normally I can come up with a patched diameter that slips into a fired case and fits the throat without sizing the cases. That is the best situation, happens sometimes and sometimes not. I also use .372" boolits in my 375, patched with 9# onionskin to .377". That fits the cases and throat just right. I just wish I could get smokeless and slicks to play together - homemade moulds are easy to make to produce slicks, much harder with grease grooves!
Thanks again,
-Nobade
Not an H&H, but the RCBS boolit is fairly easily pushed to the velocities you want in a .375 BB94. I've got one and am using surplus 680 to reach those velocities (around 2000 fps). -Pilgrim
Ya'll are going to force me to abduct my 375 BB 94 safe queen and do a smackdown on some piggies. In some ways the BB makes more sense than the H&H for cast boolit velocities. For some reason the H&H sounds like more fun.
Last edited by TXGunNut; 04-22-2013 at 09:25 PM.
Endowment Life Member NRA, Life Member TSRA, Member WACA, NRA Whittington Center, BBHC
Smokeless powder is a passing fad! -Steve Garbe
I hate rude behavior in a man. I won't tolerate it. -Woodrow F. Call, Lonesome Dove
Some of my favorite recipes start out with a handful of depleted counterbalance devices.
It is just seeing that big ole honkin cartridge sliding into the chamber. Just looks like something getting ready to get the smackdown.
I came into this world kicking, screaming, and covered in someone elses blood. I plan to go out the same way.
I did some longer range shooting yesterday. Shot everything from the bench on 6 power.
200 yards
300 yards
400 yards. Bottom left 5 shots I was aiming at a rock on the berm above it to stay somewhat consistant.
No turrets so all hold over was estimated using the 12" tall paper as a range guide. Calculated drop using a .250 BC, I didn't want to mess with wind age but the crosswind was picking up after sight in.
This thing shoots so well I may get turrets for it.
Last edited by NVScouter; 04-29-2013 at 02:42 PM.
So this is a good 400y cast hunting rifle that's better than many folks can claim. I'm working on a mold design to bring the weight and BC up a bit with a MV around 2,000fps.
Glad to see you got it working! Those 375s are mighty useful rifles.
-Nobade
That is some fantastic results. Way to go.
Want to come help me with my 338-06 project?
With accuracy like yours, I would NEVER need a J-boolit again. Way to go.
I came into this world kicking, screaming, and covered in someone elses blood. I plan to go out the same way.
Only if have some pigs around!
But to be honest this is a listed Ken Water's pet load so the development goes to him. I just set the forward band to engage the rifling and put boolit to paper. The CZ's set trigger really helps too. I'm thinking that this Leupold VXIII needs some turrets to I dont have to do the Hillbilly Holdover in the field.
I love the .375 H&H M70 SS Classic. Is a GREAT rifle with 300 gr TSXs at 2600 fps.
Have worked some with the Lyman 375449 cast in WW and lubed with Carnuba Red propelled with AA5744. I chose AA5744 because I didn't want to get into using a filler in a bottle neck cartridge.
Results are promising but not as accurate as the .416 Aagaard w 400 gr cast projectiles. Great for practice.
Check out the Vortex 1-4 Razor. 220MOA internal adjustment plus lines in the reticle. Too bad it's only 4X, but it really lets you shoot way out there with boolits!
After my eyes completely **** out on me so the irons aren't useful any more I am thinking about putting one of those on my Ruger #1 45-70 with a 90-100 MOA canted base. Probably be looking at the middle of the barrel but I ought to be able to hit things past 1000 yards with it.
-Nobade
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |