Draw die dimensions

[7of7]

I want to make myself a set of draw dies so I can make 22LR brass into jackets. I am wondering what the dimensions of the die, and punch is.
Eventually, I will be making some draw dies for .357, and .45...
I just got a lathe, and am leaarning how to create these items...
Anyone know how to go about making a point forming die? It is more a question on how to get the initial shape...

[scrapcan]

7of7,

see the post I am going to put up on a scanned booklet that Chesire Dave forwarded to me. It should be up shortly.

No info on making draw dies, but there is info on making the core swage, core seater, point former, reamers, and top and bottom punches.

[trevj]

Die and punch dimensions can be got directly off the Corbin website. Both of them, actually.

There are a bunch of little downloads/pages worth a read there!

http://www.corbins.com/rfjm.htm says .199-.200 for the punch, .219-.220 for the die.

http://www.rceco.com/ is the other Corbin, Robert.

Cheers
Trev

[Lyrax]

7of7,

see the post I am going to put up on a scanned booklet that Chesire Dave forwarded to me. It should be up shortly.

No info on making draw dies, but there is info on making the core swage, core seater, point former, reamers, and top and bottom punches.

Have you had a chance to upload the book yet? Or is it on another post?

Thanks
Lyrax

[James Wisner]

Some notes are due for this.

The old ted Smith ( SAS ) pre Corbin derim die used a .222 ring die, and a .193 punch.
Many of those cases did not remove the rim fully, also he had a flat end on the punch with about a .025" raduis on the edge. Many of them would punch thru the head, thus he had to use a stripper to remove the damaged case from the punch. It took a lot of pressue to derim them.

A few years ago I tried to make my own derim set, .220 ring die, and a .196 punch, had nothing but trouble, so set it away.

Three years ago I bought the set from BSSP, it has a .223 ring die, and a .199 punch.
The ring die has a long taper to it, about 3/8" from .330 to the .223 final ring section. The punch head is differnt, if you look at it it has the shape of the long side of a eclipse. It pushes the head back and out so a smaller section of the rim is left to swage down against the side of the punch. I did several thousand last week. Most of them were Federal cases and 90% of them there was nothing showing of the old rim edge.
I made a new punch and polished it down to .197, and could tell the differnce in pressue and about 50% of the cases did not show anything of the old rim edge. Did not have a single one punch thru, also with the punch end that shape a lot of semi crunched cases can be used as the punch will open the case enough for the case to go over the end of the punch.

There is a ratio of the diameter of the ring die to the diameter of the punch, vs the brand of cases used.

Hope these dims will help

J Wisner

[GerryM]

That problem can be solved with a tube mic.
Most cases vary from lot to lot. Theres a reason for that too.
The company making the brass alloy for the cases has a wide spec to work with.
your going to see a lot of differance also from company to company and lot to lot on brass.
The old 22 hulls were made from copper.{prewar 2} in the 50s copper went up and brass went down so the companies switches the raw materials.
If you ever look at an old Sisk or Speer bullet, War time and just past war time you will see the copper jackets on the bullets and the Headstamps.
You know theres quite a differance between copper hardness and brass . Anealing the cases should help quite abit.
A thurogh washing was is also necessary along with a possable tumble in a lube like lanolin .
I hope some of this helps .

[7of7]

Holy cow, this is an old thread.. well, not that old.. I still have not made the draw dies for the 22 brass.. I am thinking I will just order them for the S-press.. just to make my life easier.. I do like to make my own internal and external punches though.. just need to get some more cutting tools..

[MightyThor]

If you want to get started you don't have to get too critical about making the jackets. I have found that almost anything that has a hole can be used. Rather than trying to create perfect holes every time I now just use the drill bushings for 22 cal stuff. When they get bad enough I replace with a new bushing in my holder.

7/32 I.D. Drill Size x 1/2" O.D. x 3/4" Lg. Type "P" Headless Press Fit DrillBushing.
I smooth and enlarge the "entrance" of the bushing with a dremmel just to make it smoother to use. Had pictures of it here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...e-less-than-10

[Cane_man]

If you want to get started you don't have to get too critical about making the jackets. I have found that almost anything that has a hole can be used. Rather than trying to create perfect holes every time I now just use the drill bushings for 22 cal stuff. When they get bad enough I replace with a new bushing in my holder.

7/32 I.D. Drill Size x 1/2" O.D. x 3/4" Lg. Type "P" Headless Press Fit DrillBushing.
I smooth and enlarge the "entrance" of the bushing with a dremmel just to make it smoother to use. Had pictures of it here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...e-less-than-10

is it worth the effort to heat treat the bushing with a torch to cherry red then water quench?

[Reload3006]

the drill bushing will already be hard in the order of fifty r.c.