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Thread: Has Anyone Made A Gas Check (Cap) Punch ?

  1. #121
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
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    ^^^ awesome drawings, looks great!

    what type of lathe do you have and what type of round stock did you use? did you do any heat treating?

  2. #122
    Boolit Master

    Idz's Avatar
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    May 2013
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    New Mexico
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    I used 3/4" dia 1018 steel round and 7/8-14 threaded rod purchased from ENCO. Aluminum is so easy to punch and form that heat treating parts isn't necessary. I see almost zero wear after punching out 600 checks. The aluminum sheet stock is flashing stock from HomeDepot ~$15 for a 6"x25'x0.011 roll.
    I have a 9" ENCO hobby lathe which works well if you tighten up the ways.
    After making a few versions I could make a die set in a few hours. Finish on CRS isn't great but it seems to work just fine.
    A few tricks I learned:
    Chamfer and smooth the entrance to die to compensate for press misalignment between die and punch.
    The relief hole on the back of the punch acts as a stripper to pull the completed check off the forming pin.
    The sides of the forming pin should be polished so the check doesn't stick.
    The slot can be cut with a hacksaw but a cutoff saw or slotting saw is easier to get a straight cut.
    The forming pin should be .01-.02 lower than the slot so the disk is punched out before its formed.
    The clearance between the punch and die should be about .002 for .010 aluminum sheet.
    Make the die first and use it as a gage to turn the punch OD.
    Screw an old pill bottle on top of the punch and it will capture a 100 or so completed checks.

  3. #123
    Boolit Master

    blikseme300's Avatar
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    Mar 2009
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    Deep South Texas, RGV
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idz View Post
    I used 3/4" dia 1018 steel round and 7/8-14 threaded rod purchased from ENCO. Aluminum is so easy to punch and form that heat treating parts isn't necessary. I see almost zero wear after punching out 600 checks. The aluminum sheet stock is flashing stock from HomeDepot ~$15 for a 6"x25'x0.011 roll.
    I have a 9" ENCO hobby lathe which works well if you tighten up the ways.
    After making a few versions I could make a die set in a few hours. Finish on CRS isn't great but it seems to work just fine.
    A few tricks I learned:
    Chamfer and smooth the entrance to die to compensate for press misalignment between die and punch.
    The relief hole on the back of the punch acts as a stripper to pull the completed check off the forming pin.
    The sides of the forming pin should be polished so the check doesn't stick.
    The slot can be cut with a hacksaw but a cutoff saw or slotting saw is easier to get a straight cut.
    The forming pin should be .01-.02 lower than the slot so the disk is punched out before its formed.
    The clearance between the punch and die should be about .002 for .010 aluminum sheet.
    Make the die first and use it as a gage to turn the punch OD.
    Screw an old pill bottle on top of the punch and it will capture a 100 or so completed checks.
    I had not visited this thread in a while but now that I have some free time and wanting to make a check making tool I revisited.

    Idz, the design you present here is awesome! I will be starting on a set soon once I get my honey-do list done.
    Liberalism is the triumph of emotion over intellect, but masquerading as the reverse.

    I don't know how we ever shot maximum loads before P/C come along and saved us all. R5R

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check