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Thread: look what I dug up

  1. #61
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    I don't think I would wire brush my molds either.
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  2. #62
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    OK, Maybe I didn't think the brass wire brush out very well, but I think the brass wire brush would do less damage to a steel mold then the SS media. As I said you can use a cloth on some sort of dowel to get out that last little bit. Also, there are nylon bristle brushes out there.
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  3. #63
    Boolit Buddy
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    Whatever you do, dont use the electrolysis method. This reminds me of having teenagers!

  4. #64
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well I for one did rig an electrolysis setup, and a big thank you, to you guys for pointing me in that direction, I had a couple of improperly stored molds that needed a light rust removal, and it works great !!
    Now I'm looking around the shop for some other things to de-rust

    Fred

  5. #65
    Boolit Buddy
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    SSSHHHH, dont tell.

  6. #66
    I'm A Honcho! warf73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nouseforaname1246 View Post
    Nevermind, I just googled it. Good ol sodium carbonate. Looks like it isnt sold here in nevada though. But that gives me an excuse to do a little kitchen chemistry and convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate.
    I use soda ash, can buy it as any pool/hot tube dealer that sells pool chems. you can also use Arm & Hammer Washing Soda sold at Wal mart Kmart, Korger, IGA most any place that has a cleaning isle.
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  7. #67
    Boolit Master
    TheGrimReaper's Avatar
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    I'll admit that mold does look really rough.

  8. #68
    Boolit Master zuke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by imashooter2 View Post
    Hard to be sure from the pictures, but the edges of the mold cavity don't look sharp any more (2nd picture). It also didn't get all the rust.
    He took them on trade for a really good deal. It wasn't till he got home he realized how bad a shape they were in. That was a couple year's ago, they've been in oil since then.
    He told me about them and I thought I'd try it out. He had nothing to loose. I'm tumbling for 12 hour's then onto the wood pellet stove to dry off and heat up then into an oil bath.
    I'm doing this as a favour, so time will tell.
    I'm leaving a little bit for him to do, but the bulk of the work is done.
    He has 5 mold's,and that's the worse one.

  9. #69
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zuke View Post
    He took them on trade for a really good deal. It wasn't till he got home he realized how bad a shape they were in. That was a couple year's ago, they've been in oil since then.
    He told me about them and I thought I'd try it out. He had nothing to loose. I'm tumbling for 12 hour's then onto the wood pellet stove to dry off and heat up then into an oil bath.
    I'm doing this as a favour, so time will tell.
    I'm leaving a little bit for him to do, but the bulk of the work is done.
    He has 5 mold's,and that's the worse one.
    Not meaning to offend, but you aren't making the molds better by rounding over the parting line. I highly recommend you make an electrolytic rig or use Evaporust to avoid further damage.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check