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Thread: resizing cast slugs???

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    590
    As VdoMemorie suggests, if you are using multiple size sizer dies, that are significantly different in diameter, you will have to make up appropriate push through rams. Getting maximum contact with the edges of the slug bases avoids slug damage in sizing. I got away with only two. One for the .723 and .730 dies for the foster type slugs, and another smaller ram for the .673 and .679 dies used for the Lee Key Drives.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by VdoMemorie View Post
    Hello MossBergman, you will need a strong press like RCBS Rock Chukker with 1-1/4X18" thread, based on the slug you wish to re size, you'll need the pins to match each slug
    hollow base etc to keep the slug in tact and not crush during the process!

    Hoping it helps.

    Warmest regards,
    Ajay
    BlazingSabots@Gmail.com
    Blazing Sabots, LLC
    www.BlazingSabots.com
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    www.PreciousVideoMemories.com
    I'll look and see about that press... Hopefully it makes sence for me. Thanks for the suggestion.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by GBertolet View Post
    As VdoMemorie suggests, if you are using multiple size sizer dies, that are significantly different in diameter, you will have to make up appropriate push through rams. Getting maximum contact with the edges of the slug bases avoids slug damage in sizing. I got away with only two. One for the .723 and .730 dies for the foster type slugs, and another smaller ram for the .673 and .679 dies used for the Lee Key Drives.
    OK... please excuse the follow up question as I can be slow in getting it sometimes ... do you mean you are pushing the lee slug through twice and each time sizing just a little bit otherwise the bottom of slug could deform?

  4. #24
    Good morning MossBergman, if you are only doing it to fit Lee Drive key in a pertecular wad for a snug fit then perhaps just one sizing die will do!
    You will not only require a strong press but also have the press mounted on a solid table and then all your weight to push it through based on your alloy!

    This hobby is suppose to be fun, you might be better off buying better choices of wads, instead and the good wads are a bit hard to find specially when you need them!
    1. Win.AA12F114 with the thinnest petals, but hard to find.
    2. Fed.12S-3
    3. Win. AA-12
    4. Fed.12C-1, hard to find.
    5. Fed.12S-4
    6. Fed.12S-0, petals thick.
    7. Trap Commander, thicker petals.
    8. Hornady Versalite, very thick but good for overbored barrel.
    and this is how they fit before modifications, like adding a nitro card and cutting the wad petals short etc:

    https://imgur.com/2nkY5pd
    https://imgur.com/CtlOdHK
    Please do not buy the replacement wads as they are usually very crappy, I would not touch them with a 10 feet pole!

    Hoping it helps.

    Warmest regards,
    Ajay
    BlazingSabots@Gmail.com
    Blazing Sabots, LLC
    www.BlazingSabots.com
    http://www.facebook.com/BlazingSabots?ref=hl
    www.PreciousVideoMemories.com
    Last edited by SuperBlazingSabots; 02-08-2018 at 10:53 AM.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    590
    No, what I ment was the ram has to be very close to the die diameter, or you will not get maximum support on the edges of the slug when forcing through the die. The bases of the slugs are hollow, with only about 1/8" around the rim in contact with the surface of the ram. With too small of a ram, the edges of the slug will shear off when being forced through the die. I found that I could get away with one size ram for the .673 and .679 dies. but I need a larger size for the .723 and .730 dies, to keep this from happening. If you are doing just the Lee, you will only need the one ram to size the slug.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by GBertolet View Post
    No, what I ment was the ram has to be very close to the die diameter, or you will not get maximum support on the edges of the slug when forcing through the die. The bases of the slugs are hollow, with only about 1/8" around the rim in contact with the surface of the ram. With too small of a ram, the edges of the slug will shear off when being forced through the die. I found that I could get away with one size ram for the .673 and .679 dies. but I need a larger size for the .723 and .730 dies, to keep this from happening. If you are doing just the Lee, you will only need the one ram to size the slug.
    Hey thank you for setting me straight on that... I was wondering if you would be willing to make me a ram (metal rod) and resizing die for a lee slug sized down to .680? if you are willing to do this please pm me with a price. Thanks

  7. #27
    Ajay, I'm starting to look forward to your posts awsome information and pics... jam packed with good info. Thanks

    I realize as an alternative to resizing the slug I could just replace the wad with thinner pedals

    Question:
    1. Which peddal do you think would work with the lee slug snugly in a standard federal shotshell?
    2. Do you know os any place that would send you sample sizes of wads... I would need a handful of differant pedal thickness to see which one works best then would place a bulk order. I would even be willing to pay for the samples. Otherwise i would be ordering wads and having to return them. which seems silly to me.

    Thanks again!

  8. #28
    Boolit Bub
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    May 2015
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    Hi GBertolot I found the picture's of your Dies may I ask do they taper down to your required size or have shoulder ?

    cheer's Fenman

  9. #29
    Boolit Master


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    Would you consider making a couple for sale?
    Pro Patria-Ne Desit Virtus

  10. #30
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    mossbergman, I've been shooting Fost type slugs that I swage through my Browning BPS with a rifled barrel and scope. I use lead pipe and such for my alloy and it does have some antimony in it. It's little harder then straigh lead, but still swages. I had that problem of the wad trying to enter the hollow base and fixed it with filling it with paraffin. I can tell you this, just changing the the type and thickness of the wad underneath the slug can take your 1-2 inch groups at 100 yards to over a foot!!!! Just found that out somemore out testing today. I changed the .125 nitro card to the same thickness in a hard vinyl plastic, not brittle, and my group was 12 inches. So that's out and back to the .125 nitro card. Slug loading is very tempermental. I hope you can get a die make for you or cobble up one yourself.

  11. #31
    Greetings Mossbergman, here is the chart of wad fit in .730 ID barrel bottom right.
    https://imgur.com/CtlOdHK
    Lets say the wad you have is a bit loose then simply paper parch them like this in wad
    https://imgur.com/yjZi7z9
    then try pushing it through your tightest choke backwards without the nitro card in wad to check for fiction fit.
    https://imgur.com/2nkY5pd

    Your worst enemy will be blow-by gases like this.
    https://imgur.com/Ma1bqZp
    Because of this:
    https://imgur.com/sCW0uoc
    Very Simple remedy here is :
    https://imgur.com/8SVSz3X
    I wish you the very best above all have fun burning powder at the range ! !

    Best regards,
    Ajay Madan

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy jkcerda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperBlazingSabots View Post
    Greetings Mossbergman, here is the chart of wad fit in .730 ID barrel bottom right.
    https://imgur.com/CtlOdHK
    Lets say the wad you have is a bit loose then simply paper parch them like this in wad
    https://imgur.com/yjZi7z9
    then try pushing it through your tightest choke backwards without the nitro card in wad to check for fiction fit.
    https://imgur.com/2nkY5pd

    Your worst enemy will be blow-by gases like this.
    https://imgur.com/Ma1bqZp
    Because of this:
    https://imgur.com/sCW0uoc
    Very Simple remedy here is :
    https://imgur.com/8SVSz3X
    I wish you the very best above all have fun burning powder at the range ! !

    Best regards,
    Ajay Madan
    TAG. thanks
    Feed back thread

  13. #33
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    19
    What model type/no. for the Herter press did you use ? The simplest is the smartest way to follow !
    Quote Originally Posted by GBertolet View Post
    I made a series of push through sizer dies for my shotgun slugs. I made them to fit a spare Herters press I had laying around. I had to make the dies with a 1-1/4X18 outside thread, to fit in the press. I made .730 and .723 die for the Forster slugs, and .679 and .673 dies for the Lee !oz slugs. I made a ram that fits in the shell holder slot to push the slugs through. I just roll the slugs on my case lube pad for lubrication. I found you can increase diameter for in between sizes, by rolling a rasp over them, which knurls them. Amount of down pressure and number of passes determines the diameter.

  14. #34
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    Might be easier to just buy different wads? I use the Claybuster Blue Wads for Lee and Lyman Slugs and they work well in my Smoothbore Shotguns for my intended uses of shooting steel targets and plinking. 35-50 yards. My round ball loads are all assembled in my normal trap load instead of the shot. @1100-1150 fps

    Nobody is going to get repeatable "rifle accuracy" from a smoothbore gun. Too many variables in the projectiles and how they get assembled and launched. But you can get "acceptable results" pretty easily by accepting distance limitations, (50-75 yards) and consistent load assembly. People don't generally consider that assembly of shotshells with single projectiles is very similar to assembling Brass Cartridges but all the same rules apply.

    I currently have three shotguns I am shooting slugs from,,, My M500 HD gun which has a 18.5" smoothbore barrel with sights, my 20" M500 with a Vang Comped barrel with sights, and my Browning Auto 5 with both a 24" smoothbore barrel or 24" Hastings rifled barrel. Both with sights. It is by far the most accurate of the bunch. Just having the open sights on all these guns makes a huge difference in the accuracy.

    Also there are many commercial slugs available that have attached wads, like Thug Slugs which perform well in both smoothbore and rifled barrels. Those slugs are swaged and are about as close to identical as swaged boolits. Thus the projectile variance is eliminated. Using new hulls eliminates another variable, weighed powder charges and a perfectly consistent crimp would complete the picture. Shotshells need to be as close to the same OAL as possible to eliminate another variable.

    I have also found that limiting velocities to 1250-1300 fps for the Lyman Pellet Slug, Lee Drive Key Slugs, and my Round Balls gives pretty consistent results. With lower pressures comes less induced variances during launch, Including wad distortion, slug distortion, and slug alignment. These things all contribute to poor groups so limiting their influence can only help and when you look at the loss in power it is negligible for most uses. Steel or paper targets don't care, and No Deer or Bear is going to know the difference in being hit with a 1 oz+ slug that is going 1300 or 1500 fps. both are devastating. Now,,, if you're talking big bears,,, maybe so.

    Randy
    Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 03-30-2020 at 05:27 PM.
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check