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Thread: OK, here it is....Automated Star....

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mktacop View Post
    VERY nice Wyman!! I'm jealous!

    Can't you still use the foot switch for the Star, or did you remove it?
    removed the foot switch....prolly could plumb it in though....
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  2. #22
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    U can also just add a switch to energize the air switch.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master



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    That looks awesome, I pulled the handle on one with a boolit feeder for the first time last Wed at a friends house.

    Ken
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    U can also just add a switch to energize the air switch.
    I may go that route since I have some bullets that I have to do manually (NOE 311247)
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  5. #25
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    could i please get a copy of the parts list too (thanks )

  6. #26
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    This is the electronic side of the Star Automation
    Its pretty basic..

    2 x VTD2P-F50 Veris smart relay My cost on these are $70 each. -> http://www.veris.com/docs/Datasheets/VTD_d01131.pdf
    1 x standard on/off toggle switch
    2 x standard push button Momentary on
    1 x air switch (will locate part # and add later. its in one of these post)

    Now on the relays. These are multi-function smart relays. They can be configured to do a lot.
    I used them because i got them as free samples. They do offer some that are 1/2 the price but a different style.

    Basic setup.
    Relay 1 - run time - Configured as a delay of break relay. this relay controls the amount of time the machine will run before it stops. The time set on this relay is normally twice the amount of time of relay 2 x's the amount of boolits you have in the tube

    Relay 2 - cycle time - Configured as a repeat relay. This relay controls the amount of time for the cycle. it is a on/off repeating relay. It is set for 1 second. This will do one second on, then one second off. This makes the entire cycle to do one boolit is 2 seconds or 30 boolits per minute.

    With this setup the machine will do a average of 1800 boolits a hr if it had a endless supply of boolits feeding it.

    On my standard Magma tubes they hold about 53 38 sp 125 grain boolits.
    Based on a 2 second cycle time (1 sec on/ 1 sec off) you would need to set the run time to 53 boolits x 2 secs = 106 secs
    So relay 1 would be set to 106 seconds

    Now someone asked me what if I have a boolit collator feeding my star......
    Well there are a couple thoughts on this.
    (1) What is the speed of the collator - how many boolits per minute can it feed???
    (2) How many boolits can it hold??
    (3) How many boolits can you lube with the amount of lube that is in the star??

    I would build it as a standard setup then set the run time to be what the collator can hold and set the cycle time to what the collator can feed.

    Now the switches..
    1 - on/off - main power for the controls
    1 - pushbutton - start button - a momentary push will start relay 1
    1 - pushbutton - this would be the manual cylce push button. it feeds power directly to the air switch so you can manually cycle the machine

  7. #27
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    I will be finally setting mine up this week.
    Sizing up 1000 hp boolits wears my arm out.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  8. #28
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    Hope everything goes according to plan.

    Fox

  9. #29
    Boolit Master ACrowe25's Avatar
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    Wow that thing is pretty, congrats!

  10. #30
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    just had a couple questions? the conversion looks great ! what is the bore and stroke of the air cylinder you are running and at what psi?

  11. #31
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    Hopefully this works from my phone.....

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=151658
    Air Assisted Star Sizer
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  12. #32
    Boolit Mold The Oracle's Avatar
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    I think taking manually operated equipment and automating it is just cooler than all get out. I will definitely copying your build when automating my star.

  13. #33
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    Its about time for me... I don't have a lot of time, I have more money then time. So it was logical for me to automate the Star. I haven't done mine but Wyman is running the prototype controller that I built for him. Keep in mind that I see he cleaned it up as it was designed as a prototype not the final product.
    Speaking of that, i need to get a wiring diagram out to mktacop today before I leave for a much needed vacation.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    Its about time for me... I don't have a lot of time, I have more money then time. So it was logical for me to automate the Star. I haven't done mine but Wyman is running the prototype controller that I built for him. Keep in mind that I see he cleaned it up as it was designed as a prototype not the final product.
    Speaking of that, i need to get a wiring diagram out to mktacop today before I leave for a much needed vacation.
    That would be most appreciated!

    If you have time to send the new PLC program too (provided you've finished working on it), that would be great as well.

    Enjoy your vacation!
    USAF Retired

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  15. #35
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    My machine is up and running. Ran into some minor issues.

    1 - boolits were jamming in feed slide. This was do to the slide moving too fast and the boolits getting crooked above the die. I slowed the flow on up stroke and it corrected.

    2 - broke two roll pins due to jammed boolits - corrected in above fix but out of roll pins now. Used roofing nail. Works great. They will bend if there is a jam. Just pull them out and replace. I got 100's of them.

    3 - when loading the tubes put a sized and lubed boolit every 15. This will help prevent jams in the die itself by providing lube. I was jamming one out of 50 but I have sized 1000 this morning with no jams once I started doing this.

    Remember this modification isn't about speed. Its about being about to not wear your arm out sizing boolits. I still babysit the star as it runs. Basically i load a tube just as fast as it empties one.

    I suggest starting slow.
    Adjust each flow valve. The down stroke needs to be more forceful then the up. Adjust the up so it barely puts the boolit in the right spot before starting the down stroke.

    I run mine at 140psi. It will start sticking boolits in the die at 80psi.
    My pancake compressor barely keep up with the star. After about 5 mins its starts running and will not stop until the star stops. I am looking at a bigger one.

    Right now i am using a. 1.6 second cycle time. I have only sized the 40 cal 180's with it.
    I would do a 3 or 4 sec time to start with.
    Last edited by HATCH; 04-14-2013 at 01:07 PM.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  16. #36
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    For anyone following this thread.
    My setup requires more then 3cfm @ 90psi
    I have to purchase a larger compressor to run the star sizer.
    But good news is I will be able to size and cast at the same time then.

  17. #37
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    I have the dewalt, 200 psi oiless. plumbed it to the bench with the 3/8 air line and split it at a tee for the caster and sizer in parrallel. comes on about twice an hour for three or four minutes.

    Fox

  18. #38
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by wymanwinn View Post
    OK, here they are...he MC and Star working in tandem....pretty sweet!!!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzBuOPmynGo

    wyman
    holy smokes. That bullet feeder tube needs an autofill hopper at the top, and you gotta mount the whole shebang under the desk. That way the bullets fall out of the master caster right into the hopper of the bullet feeder.

    Add ingots on top, collect lubed bullets at the bottom.

  19. #39
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    Thank you for sharing! I had two quick questions.

    1. Due to the rate of sizing does the lube ever get to cold or can the heat element keep up with it?

    2. If you keep it lubed does any part of it get too warm due to the speed that you are sizing at?

    Thanks

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uptickk View Post
    Thank you for sharing! I had two quick questions.

    1. Due to the rate of sizing does the lube ever get to cold or can the heat element keep up with it?

    i cast, size and reload in a heated/AC'd room so i don't have that issue...the PID controled Star heater block works very nicely...

    2. If you keep it lubed does any part of it get too warm due to the speed that you are sizing at?

    i size at about one bullet every 2 seconds, that is controlled by the automation...so, no, the die does not get too warm...

    i use Mobil 1 15w50 oil to lube all of the Star working parts and Magma Blue lube for my smokeless bullets....

    Thanks
    wyman
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check