Load DataLee PrecisionSnyders JerkyReloading Everything
Titan ReloadingRotoMetals2Inline FabricationMidSouth Shooters Supply
Repackbox Wideners
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Lube Question for molds

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    186

    Lube Question for molds

    So Im looking at maybe casting a few of these so called boolits tonight for my first try. I know i need to lube the sprue plate and the pins. The only lube i got on hand is lyman orange lube. IS it safe to try this out? Also where is the bull sprue page and how much does that stuff cost? Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Bullshop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    6,172
    Try the link at the bottom

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    turmech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Delmarva
    Posts
    533
    Bull Plate and Zip lube are sold here if that is what you are referring to. There is a section labeled vendor sponsors near the bottom of the main page. It is rather inexpensive and last a long time. You will most likely spill it before using it up. Seems to be the reoccurring theme anyway.

    I can't say about the Lyman lube for sure but I don't think it will work well.

    I use both Zip lube and Bull Plate the same way. I preheat the mold. Fill the cavities(this is important as you don't want the lube in the cavities). Put a small amount on the top of the mold blocks and under the sprue plate with a Q-tip. Open the mold and put a small amount on the aliment points. Repeat every so often to the mold block tops. That is how I do it anyway.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    eastern Kansas- suburb of KC
    Posts
    15,023
    Bull plate lube is highly recommended, from BullShop. The boolit lube will work,
    sort of but will burn on and leave a nasty stain and mess. Order Bull plate ASAP,
    use the orange stuff to lube boolits, and only rarely the mold. Consider it for
    emergency use only.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    williamwaco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Dallas Texas
    Posts
    4,690
    Lyman Orange will work.

    Nowhere near as good as Bull Plate.

    You can also use bees wax.

    When using one of these on a temporary basis I cannot over emphasize the importance of using a VERY SMALL amount and you MUST be sure that none of it gets into the cavities.

    Apply it to the sprue plate screw after the mold is hot. I apply it to the joint between the top of the plate and the screw body.

    Very small amount means a blob about this big . on the tip of a tooth pick.
    First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
    More at: http://reloadingtips.com/

    "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
    government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian."
    - Henry Ford

  6. #6
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    89
    I use turbine engine oil, it seems to hold up to heat better than bullplate. Some guys use full synthetic 2 stroke oil too.
    Where you at in MI?

  7. #7
    Banned

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    soda springs Id.
    Posts
    28,088
    i wanna hear what william has to say about it....
    i use anti-sieze or two stroke oil cause i have it.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    186
    Im up in the thumb area

  9. #9
    I'm A Honcho! warf73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Wichita, Kansas
    Posts
    1,803
    I use 2 stroke oil also with no issue and on both brass and alum molds.
    "Life isn't like a box of chocolates...It's more like
    a jar of jalapenos. What you do today, might burn
    your ass tomorrow."

  10. #10
    Boolit Man TXBRILL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    The Birth Place of Texas
    Posts
    85
    2 stroke oil for me, I check that the cap is titght give it a couple of shakes, take the cap off and use the oil in the cap on a qtip, a little gous a long way
    Last edited by TXBRILL; 03-01-2013 at 01:18 PM. Reason: grammar

  11. #11
    Boolit Master


    williamwaco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Dallas Texas
    Posts
    4,690
    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    i wanna hear what william has to say about it....
    i use anti-sieze or two stroke oil cause i have it.

    How the deuce did I make three copies of that post?


    I have used copper based anti-sieze too.

    It worked very well but it was hard to apply because it doesn't penetrate into the joints. Unfortunately, I misplaced the tube.

    I have never tried the others.

    I have a lifetime supply of bull plate, When I lose or spill that bottle, I will probably try the two stroke oil because I live about 6 blocks from Auto Zone.
    First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
    More at: http://reloadingtips.com/

    "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
    government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian."
    - Henry Ford

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check